Oil Change question on the 2019 Hyper - Page 2 - Ducati.ms - The Ultimate Ducati Forum
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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old Jun 22nd, 2019, 11:34 pm
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Originally Posted by PNorris View Post
That sounds like a load of horse poo poo. The OEM filters don't have any special valves in them that every oil filter does not already have. I would love to see the special valving, as I don't buy it.
I will definitely take your advice over a known ducati specialist. LOL

I’d be more worried about old oil at 9k intervals that what brand of filter.

I have done 2 oil changes in my first 3000 miles & I will continue to do them every 3,500 miles or so. I did the screen at 600 & will do it again at my next change. I have used OEM filters & both Yamalube 15/50 & Motorex 15/50 & noticed no difference. I have a filter tool that fits the Ducati filters. If I did not I would use a K&N or a HighFlo as the nut makes removal easier.

Here’s what the screen looked like at 600 miles..

People can do what the like. It's an extra $6 every 9k miles.
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Originally Posted by PNorris View Post
That sounds like a load of horse poo poo. The OEM filters don't have any special valves in them that every oil filter does not already have. I would love to see the special valving, as I don't buy it.
I will definitely take your advice over a known ducati specialist. LOL



People can do what the like. It's an extra $6 every 9k miles.
I’d be more worried about dirty oil after 9k than what type of oil filter I used.

I have done two oil changes in 3,500 miles & I did the stern at 600 miles & will do it again at the next change. I use OEM filters as I have a filter wrench that fits but would use K&N or Hiflo too as the nut makes removal so easy. I have used bot Yamalube & Motorex 15/50 synthetic oil & noticed no difference only that both shifted better than the Shell but I’m sure that was due to break in & not the oil.

Here’s what my screen & plug looked like at 600 mile change.
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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old Jun 23rd, 2019, 1:50 am
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the removal of the plug under the oil screen is something i would never do personally, but maybe they've decided it's a removable thing. it used to be loctited in, and i've seen people fight to get it out and damage the cases, etc. plus it's not the lowest point of the sump internally.

i'd never remove it instead of the magnetic drain plug, but i'm not in the factory loop these days to know what they're thinking.
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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old Jun 23rd, 2019, 12:02 pm
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Id be more worried about dirty oil after 9k than what type of oil filter I used.

I have done two oil changes in 3,500 miles & I did the stern at 600 miles & will do it again at the next change. I use OEM filters as I have a filter wrench that fits but would use K&N or Hiflo too as the nut makes removal so easy. I have used bot Yamalube & Motorex 15/50 synthetic oil & noticed no difference only that both shifted better than the Shell but Im sure that was due to break in & not the oil.

Heres what my screen & plug looked like at 600 mile change.
That looks pretty clean for a new engine.

Watched a video recently of a guy that had bought a wrecked Ferrari 360 (2006?) and was changing the oil and he had to dig a foil cover (the kind that use to seal a quart of new oil) out of the drain hole. Some dufus let that get into the motor. Shameful. I'm always paranoid about that as well as any dust/dirt etc getting in a motor when I have the oil fill or airbox open.
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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old Jun 23rd, 2019, 1:42 pm
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That's why they have screens and plugs. The manual says 9k mile changes.I will do that or a change at the end of the season for winter storage - which ever comes first. Synthetic is very stable stuff, but I know old habits are hard to break.
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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old Jun 23rd, 2019, 7:25 pm
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That's why they have screens and plugs. The manual says 9k mile changes.I will do that or a change at the end of the season for winter storage - which ever comes first. Synthetic is very stable stuff, but I know old habits are hard to break.
So you’ll splurge on a filter but not on the oil. lol. I would think the oil in my Hyper would be trashed at 9,000 miles so I am going to stick to changing it every 3,000 or so. Cheap insurance as I plan to keep the bike a long time.
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post #16 of 18 (permalink) Old Jun 24th, 2019, 10:30 am
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So you’ll splurge on a filter but not on the oil. lol. I would think the oil in my Hyper would be trashed at 9,000 miles so I am going to stick to changing it every 3,000 or so. Cheap insurance as I plan to keep the bike a long time.
It's not a question of splurging regarding the filter, and 3000 mile oil changes are not necessary. Follow your inner bliss.
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post #17 of 18 (permalink) Old Jun 24th, 2019, 12:09 pm Thread Starter
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It's not a question of splurging regarding the filter, and 3000 mile oil changes are not necessary. Follow your inner bliss.
This is a fascinating issue and debated all over the place. If the bike needed oil changes every 3k miles or more, it would be required for warranty. Since it is not required, the burden of proof is on those who say more frequent oil changes will lead to longer engine life.

The logic of the argument seems clear, fresh oil, cleaner oil is better. The science, however, needs to demonstrate that modern synthetic oils at 6k miles is materially worse off than new oil.

I would love to see evidence either way.

FWIW I still change my oil every 3k miles even though I don't have to per engine manufacturer. Just "feels" right, despite the lack of evidence that it is better.

https://www.scientificamerican.com/a...change-truths/

https://www.consumerreports.org/car-...-for-your-car/

https://motorbikewriter.com/often-change-oil/

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post #18 of 18 (permalink) Old Jun 24th, 2019, 6:19 pm Thread Starter
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K&N and HiFlo come with a protective freshness seal over the filter and keeps the rubber oiled.

Ducati does not.

K&N and HiFlo can be installed and removed with a 17mm socket

Ducati requires a special filter socket

When you look inside they are not identical. There does seem to be a variation is the metal mesh work and oil passages. I would assume they do not have identical oil flow properties, but they have to be close or they would either over stress the oil pump from too little flow or flood the system from too much flow. Just a theory.
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