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post #21 of 94 (permalink) Old Apr 28th, 2019, 4:22 am Thread Starter
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The HoHey fitting does not fit the brembo rear master reservoir port.

Could I just seal that port and run a double banjo? The hand lever master and reservoir would do the job.

How could I seal it? Epoxy? Solder?

I may just try and use another master in place of the brembo that is compatible with the fitting.
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post #22 of 94 (permalink) Old Apr 28th, 2019, 10:15 am
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You can "low temperature braze" it. You are very handy and I believe you can do it at home. You will need to make a threaded bung to fit in where the tactic piece came out. You can get the aluminum brazing rods at home depot, menards, any welding shop, even harbor freight has it. It is incredibly strong. It flows like solder using a propane torch or mapp gas. Mapp gas works better. You will need to gut the master cylinder of all the rubber seals because you will be getting it really hot. The bung you put in will need to be threaded to fit the banjo bolt. A double banjo system wont work. You need to tap into the rear remote resviour. You will be removing the rear resviour completely. I'm surprised the clip style tap from hoe hey doesnt fit. Most of the brembo and nissan resviour openings are the same. Did you buy one and it not fit? Or did they just say it wont fit? If you bought one and it doesnt fit then you might need to slightly sand it down. You can do this by finding a bolt that threads into the banjo bolt opening and clamp it in a drill press. Grab a little sandpaper and turn it till it fits(that is if you dont have a lathe). Send me an exact measurement of the plastic piece that cam out of the rear master cylinder. Part of my dual caliper was held together by the low temp aluminum brazing. This was way before there was a kit available for the DRZ 400 E swingarm. It was the inspiration for the 2 guys making them now.
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post #23 of 94 (permalink) Old Apr 28th, 2019, 10:56 am Thread Starter
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duplicate

Last edited by Pard; Apr 28th, 2019 at 11:12 am.
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post #24 of 94 (permalink) Old Apr 28th, 2019, 11:01 am Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by araitim View Post
You can "low temperature braze" it. You are very handy and I believe you can do it at home. You will need to make a threaded bung to fit in where the tactic piece came out. You can get the aluminum brazing rods at home depot, menards, any welding shop, even harbor freight has it. It is incredibly strong. It flows like solder using a propane torch or mapp gas. Mapp gas works better. You will need to gut the master cylinder of all the rubber seals because you will be getting it really hot. The bung you put in will need to be threaded to fit the banjo bolt. A double banjo system wont work. You need to tap into the rear remote resviour. You will be removing the rear resviour completely. I'm surprised the clip style tap from hoe hey doesnt fit. Most of the brembo and nissan resviour openings are the same. Did you buy one and it not fit? Or did they just say it wont fit? If you bought one and it doesnt fit then you might need to slightly sand it down. You can do this by finding a bolt that threads into the banjo bolt opening and clamp it in a drill press. Grab a little sandpaper and turn it till it fits(that is if you dont have a lathe). Send me an exact measurement of the plastic piece that cam out of the rear master cylinder. Part of my dual caliper was held together by the low temp aluminum brazing. This was way before there was a kit available for the DRZ 400 E swingarm. It was the inspiration for the 2 guys making them now.
Wow, lots of info and thanks for it.

I purchased another brembo rear master and test fit the actual hohey fitting. The opening for the brembo reservoir elbow is 12mm while the hohey is 15mm. See attached pic. not close enough to adapt. I don't have the tools.

I went ahead and ordered a cheap ebay master that looks like a nissen copy. If it has a 15mm reservoir port, I may just give that unit a try with the hohey.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcycle-...53.m2749.l2649

Another thought is to bypass the rear master entirely, and get a coupler to join the line from the hydraulic left hand master and lever to the existing rear brake line to keep the ABS system intact. I would just couple both banjos together and bypass the existing rear master completely.

Brake Line Joiners

The low temp braze sound intriguing. I would be flowing material into the reservoir elbow opening and stop up the two holes inside? Just a layer of material?

In that case I guess I would use the existing banjo port to fit a double banjo, connecting the line from left hand lever/master and the existing rear brake line. Eliminating the rear master reservoir, correct?

Thanks for all the time and guidance on this.

Love your work on the dual caliper setup.
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Last edited by Pard; Apr 28th, 2019 at 11:11 am.
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post #25 of 94 (permalink) Old Apr 28th, 2019, 11:02 am Thread Starter
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The downside of the mechanical setup I have installed now, I have discovered, is that when the brakes are cold, the lever is pretty slack when pulled.

If I tighten up the cable when the fluid is cold to make the pads touch the disk with a slight lever pull, then when the brakes heat up, the lever gets too tight and drags on the brakes.

The heating of the hydraulic fluid seems to affect the rear foot lever ever so slightly, but enough to make it different in position when hot vs cold.

This is a downside to the mechanical system on there now. I need to set it up for when the fluid gets hot, and realize that until it is hot, the rear brake hand lever does little.

Last edited by Pard; Apr 28th, 2019 at 11:23 am.
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post #26 of 94 (permalink) Old Apr 28th, 2019, 12:14 pm
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If you are wanting the most simplified way and dont mind loosing the foot control then I would just buy a line that gos from the hand master to the ABS pump as opposed to getting a fitting to link them together. When you start adding fittings and stuff it gets extremely difficult to bleed.
As for the brazing, it is possible to flow down into the holes but I feel it wont. It only adheres to clean rough (no oxidization or anodizing etc)aluminum . If you sand the surface of the master and the tap itsself then it will create a bead around the top 2 pieces fusing them together. Take the tap you bought and put it in a drill press like I mentioned and sand it down till it fits the master.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=5HF47xulteo

One thing to note, you can always reheat the brazing material and remove it.
Here are some old pics and drawings I did many years ago to explain it to the guys who were looking to do a hand brake when this whole thing first started taking off and it was next to impossible to get a tap(before it was a known thing).
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post #27 of 94 (permalink) Old Apr 28th, 2019, 12:22 pm Thread Starter
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Outstanding advice. Thank you. Keep you posted.

Watched that video. I think I could do that. Never totally disassembled a master before, but I suppose I could do that as well to save the rubber and plastic parts from the heat.

Running a line from a hand lever straight to the ABS would require substantial removal of bike components to reach, so I will leave that option out for now.

Last edited by Pard; Apr 28th, 2019 at 1:34 pm.
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post #28 of 94 (permalink) Old Apr 29th, 2019, 6:06 am Thread Starter
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This could work if I can get the brazing technique down. I ground down the lateral dimensions of the fitting and enlarged the brembo master reservoir port as well.
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post #29 of 94 (permalink) Old Apr 29th, 2019, 7:12 am
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It will definitely work. Sand down the green anodizing on the top ledge too. You won't need the O ring that came with the tap because the brazing will seal it in(plus the o ring would just melt as you begin to heat).
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post #30 of 94 (permalink) Old Apr 30th, 2019, 9:06 am Thread Starter
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Have you used the rekluse left hand brake?

https://rekluse.com/product/brake-kit-dual-actuated/

I could replace the rear master with a compatible unit and give that system a try.

Thoughts?


Last edited by Pard; Apr 30th, 2019 at 9:24 am.
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