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Side Corse Stripes on 1st Gen Hyper - Lots of Pics

17K views 59 replies 24 participants last post by  Austen 
#1 · (Edited)
I loved the side corse stripes since I saw them on the Pikes Peak Multi. They of course look great on the new 2015 SP HM, so I set my mind on trying them on my 1st gen hyper.


Did not want to paint the original side fairings, so I bought a carbon fiber couple. You can only tell they are CF if you look from the top.


Side stripes seemed to flow towards the tail, so I decided to extend the painting to the tail wing also.



Bought a used subframe on eBay and painted it red.


I like carbon fiber fork guards but prefer the way the red ones look.
 
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#5 ·
I dig it, Nicely done!
 
#6 ·
Looks absolutely amazing! :) I really like it a lot. It looks just like an edition that could have come with from the factory. Really looks sharp.

Nice work and good taste! Thanks for sharing the photos, you've got a very appealing bike all around. :cool:
 
#15 · (Edited)
Before and after

Here is the official picture of the 2008 1100s compared to my hyper.

Paint is the most notorious mod (tank, fork guards, tail wing, rear subframe and rearsets).

Other noticeable mods in this picture are:
- Chopped and cored exhaust
- CF exhaust valve cover (servo has been removed with race ECU but the tube with open valve is still there)
- Lusuardi racing license plate holder
- LED turnlights (noticeable because they are no longer visible form the side)
- OEM Foot peg sliders
- CF tank cover
- CF front fairing cover above headlight (hard to perceive from this shot. Have just placed it this weekend)
- SC Project oil cooler
- Streetfighter clutch cover
- Ducati Performance enduro handguards and mirrors

 
#16 ·
Nice comparison! It definitely puts the work that you've accomplished into perspective.

I like the shortened exhaust and the absence of a license plate hanging off the tail go hand in hand. The combination accentuates the rear tire and gives it an even more compact look. The style sort of reminds me of the new MV Agusta Dragster.

Keep up the great work fellow 1st HM enthusiast! :) :D
 
#18 ·
Very nice!!! :)
 
#21 ·
I agree!
Side corse stripes on a black 821 would look great!
Here is a photoshop draft to keep your imagination running:


You can do as I did. Buy some carbon fiber parts (so you don't have to spoil your OEM parts) and do the experiment. You will only need 3M green masking tape, paint, oem ducati decals and a clear urethane coat after you finish.
 
#28 ·
Wow! Fairplay you've given me lots to think about. :-S
 
#30 ·
#31 ·
What products?

Jorge-

Gorgeous moto! I've secretly been eying some other color schemes for my black on black "S" model...but don't tell her!

What paint products did you use? Water-based? Spray gun and how did you prep the carbon bits? I have some spare parts that I received when I purchased the hypmo' and I'm thinking of experimenting with them.

I just assumed vinyl wrap to be the easiest to experiment with since I can pull on and off (said so easily but, clearly, easier said than done).

How did you bond the paint to the cf panels? Primer? Sanding? Both?

Please reveal the secret ;) very nice work!

Blu
 
#32 · (Edited)
Painting secrets

Jorge-

Gorgeous moto! I've secretly been eying some other color schemes for my black on black "S" model...but don't tell her!

What paint products did you use? Water-based? Spray gun and how did you prep the carbon bits? I have some spare parts that I received when I purchased the hypmo' and I'm thinking of experimenting with them.

I just assumed vinyl wrap to be the easiest to experiment with since I can pull on and off (said so easily but, clearly, easier said than done).

How did you bond the paint to the cf panels? Primer? Sanding? Both?

Please reveal the secret ;) very nice work!

Blu
I am glad to share the secrets with you.

Painting is easier than you can imagine, and you can get an OEM quality result if you have the carefulness and the patience.
If you are the kind of guy who loves to spend time with his bike's parts and enjoys looking at the results, you'll love it. If you want immediate results, you might end up hating it.

0) Don't start painting any part unless you have verified the price you'll have to pay to replace it if you mess things up. That helped me a lot on deciding to protect my expensive OEM side tank covers and buy a carbon fiber couple to experiment with. Some parts can be found at reasonable prices on eBay used and in good contition (like the rear subframe or the tail wing) so you might decide to buy a spare to work with without having your ride dismantled and parked.

1) Use automotive painting (not water but urethane based).

2) Don't skip sanding and primer (unless you want to deal with the risk of having all your work peeling off). If you only want to create a more adherent surface a 1000 sand paper is a good choice. If you want to flatten the surface, you might need a 500 first.

3) Apply 2 coats of any product (primer, base color, clear gloss or matte coat) with 20-30 minutes between each coat. 3 coats (specially the final clear coat) can be too much and spoil your work.

4) Always use a urethane based clear coat (gloss or matte) to finish your work after all colors and decals are done. Prefer clear coats that require mixing a catalyzer as they protect way better your work from scratches and other chemicals.

5) Do not worry if your urethane based glossy clear coat is not glossy enough or if some dust particles are stuck to it. Wait a week (yes, it takes that long to be completely cured), lightly sand it with a 1200 or 1500 sand paper and then polish it with cotton and metal polishing cream paste. After that you can wax it using cotton also. You will be amazed about how glossy it can turn.

6) When doing special graphics (like my side corse stripes), use 3M green masking tape (ordinary masking tape will leave a tiny saw finish).

7) Carbon fiber parts surfaces are not as flat as OEM plastic parts. If you plan to paint with a dark color (light colors do not highlight defects as much) be aware that you might notice that more sanding is required after you have applied the base coat. If so, you will have to take 2 steps back (sanding, primer, and base coat again) so be patient.

8) I use a spray gun, but you can also get the job done with aerosol cans as you can see in this video (visit their site also, they have all the products (and sell Ducati OEM color paint):
http://youtu.be/21fBWTsdJC4

As I said, it takes patience, but for me it was worth it. I get a lot of satisfaction looking at the finished job, and other people's reactions also make me smile.
I took my bike to the local ducati dealer and most people could not tell the year model of my bike because initially they believed it was factory painted (OEM decals beneath the clear coat also helped with this).

Happy painting!
 
#33 ·
I have used aerosol based automotive paints for fairings before with good results.

Regarding the masking for detail, I'd consider using some of the pre cut decals first rather than masking for all the different colors and waiting for each to dry.

I'm unsure what color scheme I'd like to try but your photoshop skills helped a lot!

In California we are limited to the paints we can use due to EPA regulations so most items will need to be off-the-shelf and at the local stores.

Not a big deal; there lots of colors to choose from and endless possibilities.

We shall see...

I'll take a look for alternate subframes; I'd like to mount a strada tail just for the amount of luggage options.

In the meantime, I'm gonna :ride !

Thanks again for the secrets ;) how many miles on your girl now?
 
#34 ·
I'll take a look for alternate subframes; I'd like to mount a strada tail just for the amount of luggage options.

In the meantime, I'm gonna :ride !

Thanks again for the secrets ;) how many miles on your girl now?
You're welcome!
Ride on! That beats painting by far.
13K miles on my hyper now. I was fortunate to find it with a very low mileage.

There are good options of luggage with the stock tail. Here are my learnings:
- Hepco & Becker C Bow side bags are Great!
- DP Rear Luggage Rack + Stock underseat muffler = Overheated passenger
- DP center tank bag + tank cover = Good
- DP side tank bags = Not too good (Their weight tend to displace the tank cover)

Cheers!
 
#37 ·
You will need several extra parts to fit them on the hyper.
I recommend you to download the pdf parts catalog of the 1200 multi so you can verify the following part numbers.
This was my shopping cart list. Prices are 3 years old.

Multistrada 1200 Enduro style hand guards
Code: 96793510B
1 $118.20 $5.91 $112.29
Multistrada 1200 New-design rear-view mirrors with LED turn indicators.
Code: 96672310B
1 $243.30 $12.17 $231.13

Clamps are needed to fit both the multi handguards and rearview mirrors:

MS 1200 CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER CLAMP MATT BLACK
Code: 80811281AA
1 $13.89 - $13.89
MS 1200 FRONT BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER CLAMP MATT BLACK
Code: 80811271AA
1 $13.41 - $13.41

These screws are really important because one of them has a lefty thread:

TCEIF M10X1.25 SX X25 8.8ST_STR 087 SCREW
CODE: 77113771B
$6.37 1 $6.37
TCEIF M10X1.25X25 8.8 ST_STR 087 SCREW
CODE: 77159313B
$6.44 1 $6.44

I am not sure about these screws. I remember I ordered some to fix the clamps to the handlebar. Check the 1200 multi part catalog:

SCREW M5X9 SBK/09
Code: 77210852A
4 $2.79 - $11.16
SCREW M6X25 999 B/03
Code: 80A077346
2 $0.94 - $1.88

It was a bit tricky to fit the handguards with the hyper levers, but I managed to do it.
You will also need one larger clutch reservoir hose. I got mine from the local Ducati shop


I'm loving the chopped and cored exhaust, did you do it yourself? I'm guessing you have to cut from the tip due to the welded nature of the rear of the muffler? Any tips for those who want to try the same thing?
I am glad you like it.
Yes, I did it myself. Unfortunately I didn't take many pictures from the process.
  • I removed the aluminum caps and then the steel caps.
  • Cut a section from the end side and removed the chambers' walls to have both cans free and clean.
  • Then I fitted a bent tube in the mid section to split the flow between the straight can and the adjacent one.
  • Muffling material was placed on the bottom of the adjacent can and around core pipes that were welded to the previously removed steel caps
  • Steel caps with core pipes were welded into the cans and the whole set was painted with high temp paint
  • The last step was placing the aluminum caps in place again.
 
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