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Old bloke, first post

12K views 113 replies 19 participants last post by  otherwise 
#1 ·
First post other than “introductions”.

A friend asked me to get a 1997 750SS back onto the road since it’s been in storage since 1998. It has only 1,500km on the clock and hasn’t had its first service yet. Was delivered to my house on Saturday afternoon….



Monday.

First problem was to open the fuel cap, a little WD40 and a lot of patience solved that problem, look what I found.



Tank removed and found the plastic nut holding the fuel level sensor has deteriorated into two separate parts. Firstly I will try an Araldite repair, if that fails I figure its money required for a new item.



Have cleaned the tank out, holy shit, where did all of that come from?



Question,
Where do the wires from the fuel sensor entering tank in the second last photo go to?



Next installment, in a day or two. Answer my questions and watch this space.
 
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#31 ·
A short update on returning the 750SS to the road.
I have taken careful note of all comments, and thanks, please keep them coming. Because time isn’t an issue I have tried to do things my way knowing that in most cases I am bound to fail and then take the good advice given by you blokes. The result so far is I got away with my short cut cleaning the tank and also resurrected the fuel pump. New battery, oil and filter, fuel filters both sides of the pump and put it all back together. It runs, but unfortunately you blokes are correct, it isn’t running cleanly and without doubt has to have the carbs taken off and professionally cleaned. That’s a job for next week, will report back and probably have a question or two.
 
#37 ·
Mr Otherwise, mate your doing a top job. Wish I had mates like you :thumbsup:

I've just taken delivery of my first Duc, a "92 900SS out of Japan. It has been sitting for a long time too, and I suspect from a quick look inside the petrol tank that I will be doing what you are with the tank and carbs etc. I will be looking back at this post for sure at your nice big clear pictures for info.

Keep us posted how you go with the project. I for one am very interested.

Best regards,
Andrew.
 
#39 ·
Wow that tank turned out great!
I cement tumbled + epoxy coated my 999's tank and I figured you'd have to do something similar.
Good to hear that it wasn't rust but just varnish in the tank.

Carbs need a cleaning but look pretty good imo.
Be careful not to snap those brass bolts.
 
#40 ·
Hi,

wow, looks better than I thought it would... If your going to clen then yourself you will need to get about 5-6 cans carb cleaner... and get a compressor, you will need the compressed air to blow out all passages. Get a plastic and a fine bass brush. Use only the plastic brush on the floats. You will need to flip the carbs an pull out the diaphrams. Once out you will need to remove the needle tubes (the main jets screw into them) and pilot jets. spray some carb cleaner into a cap (plastic cap from the can) and toss the jets in it and let the soak a bit. Remove blow out the crap.... soak some more.... till you get all the crapp out. Do not be tempted to use a drill bit to clean the jets... this may damage them.
Good luck,

Gray:think:
 
#41 ·
The carb clean out is going well, still waiting for new o rings and gaskets to arrive.

I have to tension the new overhead cam belts. The belt tensioner bearing requires a load of 4.5 kg or 10 lbs before being locked into place. Between my spring balance (spring scales) and the bearing I have a very strong rubber ring to enable a good grip onto the bearing surface. My question is, when the scale shows 10 lbs resistance am I still putting 10 lbs force onto the bearing given that a rubber ring is involved between the effort and the load? I think yes but my head hurts.
 
#42 ·
Hi,

nah, your making it a litte hard on yourself... Take a 5mm allenkey and adjust the belt so that the allenkey will pass between the belt and the idler pulley (the non ajustable pulley). If the 5mm fits and a 6mm does not your in the gravy... :D (I would replace the belts while your at it... I would rather give out 100 dollars for belts now rather than 1000 dollars later to rebuild the motor)
 
#43 ·
Thanks for that 5mm / 6mm tip, why isn't that in the book? Sounds like an easy way to the same result.
I did say in the previous post "I have to tension the new overhead cam belts", so the old ones (that still look new) will go into the bin.
Just for the record, what to you think regarding my question, "when the scale shows 10 lbs resistance am I still putting 10 lbs force onto the bearing given that a rubber ring is involved between the effort and the load?"
 
#45 ·
oops.... did not see the "new" comment there, sorry (still early here and only on my 1st cup of coffee) I think the tip is not in the book because Ducati wants you to buy the 300 Euro tension mesuring tool.

I would not trust the mesurement as the rubber will stretch and absorb (or expend) energy meaning the actual force applied would be greater/less than what is displayed, as I am not an ing and not an expert on fluid dynamics I will not attemt to explain it. Use a pice of safty wire... or better yet... just do the allenkey trick :D

Gray:think:
 
#44 ·
I'd guess that it would still be 10lbs on the bearing. I did buy a scale when I first got my bike but have only used that method once. Now I do like most others and use the allen key.

When you fit new belts they do need the tension checked again after they have settled in. Some-one may have a more accurate mileage but about 500 kays is whrn I do it.
 
#49 ·
Bryan, I posted that question elsewhere and had received the answer, but your analogy is the easiest to understand. Simple and to the point, thanks for taking the time. Kevin.

Quote,
"You are indeed. Look at it this way-- say you've got a 10 lb. weight sitting on the ground with a hook attached to the top. You've got a scale with a hook attached to the bottom. If you hook the scale to the weight (and the scale is calibrated), and lift the scale till the weight is off the ground , the scale will read 10 lbs.

Now, if you unhook the scale from the weight (don't drop it on your toe ), put a heavy duty O-ring between the hooks on scale and weight, then lift until the weight is suspended, the scale will still read 10 lbs. The difference will be in how far you have to raise the scale to make the weight come up off the ground."
 
#52 ·
Any advance on 1 to 1.5 turns out for the pilot screws?
It's a 2007 750 SS



Quote: from Otherwise
"Been flat out doing non motorcycle things but got back to it today.
The carbs have just been reassembled but ...
How many tuns out do you set the pilot screws?
Can't find it in the w/s manual. So close but not over the line yet."

Quote: from Warp Racer
"I'm not saying for you to do it, but I thought rule of thumb with pilot screws on initial adjustment was 1-1.5 turns out from closed/seated".
__________________
 
#53 ·
Have asked the couch, he concurred with Warp Racer. Mind you then he said are they Weber's (he doesn't deal much with modern carburetors ). I said "No, they should be Mikuni's (BDST 38 B 70), unless they have been changed to Keihin's", given the number of kms the bike has travelled, they are probably original.

I attach a couple of links that may help with Mikuni's, you probably know most of this stuff anyway, but it does particularly say "If the air screw has to be turned more than 2 turns out for best idling, the next smaller size pilot jet will be needed." Here is the link. http://www.iwt.com.au/mikunicarb.htm and this one may also help http://www.box.net/public/njc0psmd7x

Cheers
 
#55 ·
just to correct you otherwise its a 97 not 2007
if it was 2007 u wouldnt be adjusting the carbs
ill check my manual for carb settings
 
#56 ·
Suitably chastised, correct 1997.
Yes they are the std Mikuni, vacuum type. All new to me.
So if I'm reading the answers properly we have one saying 1 to 1.5 turns and one saying 3 to 3.5 turns.
I actually set them at 1.5 turns before putting them back on the bike and won't be trying to start it for a couple of days, so will be keen to see additional comment. They can be adjusted in place so no harm done with the 1.5 setting if it's incorrect.
 
#57 ·
what is ur email address
pm to me if u want and I can send you the carby adjustment page from the factory manual
cheers
 
#58 ·
it is common sense that they need 3.5 turns out, i have been
corrected several times on this board now, as i adviced others
to got with the "standard" 1.5 turns out default setting.

trust me, even if i never had CV Mikuni carbs myself.

:think:
 
#61 ·
Sorry mate but I don't understand what you are saying, possibly because I had a couple of beers with dinner, possibly because I'm old and thick.:(

Are you saying the factory say 1.5 but you have better advice from experience and I should start at 3.5?

Just how important is it to be spot on be it 1.5 or 3.5?
What is the symptom of being at the incorrect end of the adjustment scale?
 
#60 ·


dont know if you can read this but will pm you the proper page
out of all the jargon in the manual carby section did not have settings just told you how carbys works
 
#62 ·


dont know if you can read this but will pm you the proper page
out of all the jargon in the manual carby section did not have settings just told you how carbys works
Anyone who ends up using the gauges, should be able to tell us how much adjustment they had to do...wait and see I suppose.
 
#63 ·
not every bike will be identical due to differences in sea level
should be close but not identical, at least it gives a close idea
 
#64 · (Edited)
We are from Wollongong, that's sea level.
Bottom line with this Ducati is I'd like to set it up as recommended, get it running for my mate who owns it, he can then have a specialist fine tune it.
If you look back at a couple of the photos I posted you can figure out how much money we have saved by doing it at home and if THE MAN has to fine tune that's OK.
 
#65 ·
Hi,

When I rebuilt carbs I always started at 2.5 turns. Turn the screws all the way in and use a sharpie to mark the screw slot position on the tube. This will help you keep up with where you started. If it is too lean the tach needle will float before returning to the idle, too rich... it will want to die... after you get it running you will know exactly what I mean by float:D

Gray:think:
 
#67 ·
The SS750 carbs went together and it was fine at idle, underpowered and rough under load. (actually 1 to 1.5 cylinders but didn’t know it at the time)
Plugs (NGK DPR8EA9) earthed to head showed a good spark.
Tried settings from 1 turn out to 5 turns out, didn’t make much difference.
Carbs off again another clean, same symptom on reassembly.
Noticed the front cylinder and ex pipe not getting hot. Disconnect front high tension lead and the bike ran the same ie front cylinder almost doing nothing. Disconnect rear high tension lead and bike won’t run.
New spark plug into the front cylinder and out onto the street, perfect just like a new bike, sharp power from idle to red line.
After about 2km old symptom comes back. Second new plug into front cylinder, same result ie fantastic for very short time.
The rear plug shows a good colour, front plug sooty black (after some checks actually slightly wet and BLACK).
After cleaning the black failed plugs they aren’t giving any improvement, looks like they are stuffed.

Suggestions please.
 
#68 ·
hm, the plugs got killed by the fuel i'd say, as nothing else kills them as nice,
i'd start with a ultra sonic cleaning of the carb bodies, with a setting of 3.5
afterwards, and would work on the igniton then.

first thing on the ignition is a switch of the modules from one cylinder to the
other, to see if the fault moves over to the other cylinder, if not, have the
coils switched too, it won't hurt. Next are all igniton related cables and the
pic-ups beneath the alternator cover.

not too much involved parts on the little 2 cylinder bike and nott too much
elektronics, you should be able to sort that out i think.

good luck. :)



stock settings for SS750 in the haynes manual :

mainjet 140
main air jet 70
needle yet Y-6
needle 5 C 19 / 3rd. pos. from top
idle jet 37.5
idle air jet 60 / 1.4
 
#70 ·
don't know, i am oldskool too, i always thought it was the fuel that killed
the +100 spark plugs in my pro street harley davidson.
it was so weird, the hole package was in top shape, and the bike ran flawlessly,
until i approached any stop, and the engine had to idle, it took a very short time
then, and the bike started to smoke black a lot ( fuel ), and the plugs were shot.
no matter what i did to the idle fuel circuit of the S&S super G carb, there wasn't
any cure, until i had the body ultra sonic cleaned: perfect idle.

at one time, i had so many f'ed plugs at home, i thought about making an art
piece from it, like a flash symbol on my garage wall that consist of said spark
plugs.

anyway, with your supersport, i'd put the bodies into the ultra sonic divice,
to be sure all internal air passages are perfectly clean, and proceed with
the ignition components too.

:)

as someone who really likes carbs, i was always suspicious about efi bikes,
but the ducatis changed it all, i do love efi bikes now.

:think: :)
 
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