The Case for Using Mobil 1 15W-50 Automobile Oil in a Motorcycle - Page 3 - Ducati.ms - The Ultimate Ducati Forum
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #21 of 53 (permalink) Old Mar 16th, 2017, 8:33 am
Prolific Poster Award
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Grass Lake, Mi, USA
Posts: 5,503
Images: 4
Solution: Stay away from Witches.

'96 Ducati SS900CR, '07 S4RS, '06 Busa, '77 Bonny,
'00 Superglide, '85 Sportster, '78 SR500
duc96cr is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #22 of 53 (permalink) Old Mar 16th, 2017, 9:21 am
Member
 
Nikolai's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Austin, TX, USA
Posts: 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by SURVEYOR View Post
If your bike has a wet clutch make sure that the oil is wet clutch compatible. MA1 OR MA2 RATING
Regular car oil has fiction modifier, witch will cause the clutch to slip after prolong use.
From the OP's first (exhaustive) post, "a Oct 2000 Motorcycle Consumer News test showed that the molybdenum content of Mobil 1 MX4T motorcycle-specific oil is 5 ppm and 11 ppm for Mobil 1 15W-50 automobile-specific oil."

And as I'd discovered in another thread on BITOG, someone had contacted Shell directly regarding the FM's in their Rotella T5 15W-40, to which the Shell rep responded that similarly to MA/MA2-spec'd Rotella T3/T4 and T6, the T5 also has no FM's that would interfere with wet-clutch operation, thus the rep speculated T5 would also meet MA/MA2 if tested.

...hence my decision to go between Rotella T5 and Mobil 1 15W-50 depending on season, and later, UOA's.

2013 Matte Chrome Multistrada 1200 S Touring
Austin, TX
Nikolai is offline  
post #23 of 53 (permalink) Old Mar 19th, 2017, 8:45 pm
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: West Columbia, SC, USA
Posts: 38
Fascinating writeup. I wish I understood more about the fundamental properties of oil and how it works, some of this is way over my head.
Nikolai likes this.
PooveyB is offline  
 
post #24 of 53 (permalink) Old Nov 16th, 2018, 8:25 am
Prolific Poster Award
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Grass Lake, Mi, USA
Posts: 5,503
Images: 4
I know this much; When I used Rotella because it was available and cheaper than Motul my bikes didnít shift as well. Real world comparison of A vs B. Something is going on that I can notice that difference . I returned to Motul, shifting noticeably better. This was in both wet and dry clutch motorcycles, 900 SS , S4RS, and Hayabusa.

'96 Ducati SS900CR, '07 S4RS, '06 Busa, '77 Bonny,
'00 Superglide, '85 Sportster, '78 SR500
duc96cr is offline  
post #25 of 53 (permalink) Old Nov 16th, 2018, 8:52 am
SP3
Prolific Poster Award
 
SP3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Canton, Ohio, USA
Posts: 4,805
Images: 6
I used Mobil1 motorcycle specific oil in my Monster once. For a hundred miles, maybe. The shifting was so poor, I drained it. That is the first (and so far, only) time I've ever done that in ~ 35 years of oil changes (car or bike). Rotella? Perfectly good.

If I'm going to spend big bucks, I'll go with Amsoil (have before).

In the end, you'd have to try pretty hard to find an oil that's going to result in a failed engine in your riding lifetime given the short OCI's used. Funny that we keep hearing (and seeing test results) that today's oils are THE BEST EVER but, people keep shortening the change intervals. If it makes one feel good, do it. I guess.

'91 851 SP3, '66 250 Monza, '99 Monster 900 City, '98 ST2
'99 Monster 750, '66 Riverside 250, '66 Riverside 250
SP3 is offline  
post #26 of 53 (permalink) Old Nov 16th, 2018, 10:26 am
Member
 
Nikolai's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Austin, TX, USA
Posts: 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by SP3 View Post
In the end, you'd have to try pretty hard to find an oil that's going to result in a failed engine in your riding lifetime given the short OCI's used. Funny that we keep hearing (and seeing test results) that today's oils are THE BEST EVER but, people keep shortening the change intervals. If it makes one feel good, do it. I guess.
Truth! I laugh when people proudly chest-thump "why keep an oil in you know has sheared to below Ducati's minimum recommended viscosity spec?!", and yet at the same time, totally ignore Ducati's 7.5k OCI spec...

Personally, I've wondered why oils shear so fast in shared MC sumps, but not in the outstanding Honda manual trannies that have (in)famously used "regular" 10W-30 since forever (I added the "(in)", because they do package MTF, but it's been tested and purported by factory engineers to be repackaged, and thus overpriced, 10W-30). No one changes their tranny fluid on their 700hp turbo'd up Integra/RSX/S2K every 2-3k miles based on "shift feel"... It's oft-quoted that it's the gears shearing the polymers apart, but is it really the wet clutches on bikes doing all the damage?

2013 Matte Chrome Multistrada 1200 S Touring
Austin, TX
Nikolai is offline  
post #27 of 53 (permalink) Old Nov 16th, 2018, 11:03 am
Senior Member
 
ducvet's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: lakes region, NH, usa
Posts: 3,382
Garage
Images: 1
Just some empirical data points to throw in the mix.

1. I see very few oil related problems and when I do it is the tooth face of the gear box where you see it. If the oil is not up to the task the transmission gears will spall and you will see pitting on the tooth face.

2. slipping can be exaggerated due to a oil additive so if you try one and it does not slip you are probably fine on that front. This does not mean the oil is up to the task of keeping your gearbox safe.

3. detergents, some oils work well but leave a mess inside. as someone who tears motors down a lot I always prefer oils that do not leave a motor covered in sludge ,no matter how much protection they have.

4. I agree that most modern synthetics will last much longer than I will keep them in the motor.
Why change out oil that is not worn out? Because it is not the oil but the combustion byproducts that are now in the oil from blow-by that i am getting out. If you pour in a oil that looks like Corona and 1000 miles later it appears to be Guinness then I do not care that the oil is not broken down yet I will not let the engine sit in a stew of contaminants over a extended time (such as winter break).
If I got to 3000 miles and the oil still looks new I would NOT change it and so on. Too many oil changes can be as bad as not enough so it is always a balance and taking the lesser of two evils.

Next time you have the pistons out of your motor be sure to check those gears to see how your favorite oil is really working, since it is winter you might go check now...
ducvet is offline  
post #28 of 53 (permalink) Old Nov 16th, 2018, 11:07 am
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Tucson, AZ, USA
Posts: 1,457
Garage
I like the Mobile 1 V-Twin oil, https://mobiloil.com/en/motor-oils/m...motorcycle-oil , 20W-50 in my old 900SS for a couple of reasons. Live in a hot climate, air cooled motor with dry clutch so I think the zinc and phosphorus rating becomes very important.

Changing it fairly often at 2,500 miles, because those miles are lots of short trips and I do ride it almost every day. It's easy to get lost on oil spec charts to be sure, but another factor that's important to me is that this oil is fairly easy to purchase locally at about $9/quart.

1991 900SS
1995 900SS SP #746
RockAZ is offline  
post #29 of 53 (permalink) Old Nov 16th, 2018, 3:11 pm
SP3
Prolific Poster Award
 
SP3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Canton, Ohio, USA
Posts: 4,805
Images: 6
What's in my ST2 for the next 1000 miles or so.....

Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	erl.jpg
Views:	133
Size:	58.8 KB
ID:	932327  

'91 851 SP3, '66 250 Monza, '99 Monster 900 City, '98 ST2
'99 Monster 750, '66 Riverside 250, '66 Riverside 250
SP3 is offline  
post #30 of 53 (permalink) Old Nov 16th, 2018, 3:59 pm
Member
 
mabrungard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Carmel, IN, United States
Posts: 42
Garage
Its not the wet clutches doing the damage. It that the engine oil in bikes is also used to lube the tranny. Its the very high shearing forces at the gear tooth interfaces that destroy oil. I've been using the Rotella T6 synthetic for over a decade because it is a C rated oil. As you probably know, C is for Compression...aka: Diesel engine use. I think that is going to provide longer service life than a S rated oil.

SP3, What was the viscosity rating of that Mobil oil that caused the shifting performance to degrade? Was it different than the oil you replaced it with?

M. Brungard
Carmel, IN
mabrungard is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Ducati.ms - The Ultimate Ducati Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in













Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Is it okay to use car engine oil on motorcycles? SSR Sport Classic 21 Aug 31st, 2011 1:22 pm
Motorcycle Oil used JohnE1000 Ducati Motorcycle Chat 24 Apr 19th, 2009 1:50 pm
Oil screen removal - Slipped off inside case risk Supersport 3 Mar 18th, 2009 1:14 pm
Oil Leak from bottom of the case? Gunzen Supersport 5 Sep 11th, 2008 8:41 pm
Pushing Oil ... From Bottom Of Case -what To Do carbon900ssie Supersport 2 May 26th, 2008 8:29 pm

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome