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post #21 of 25 (permalink) Old Mar 30th, 2013, 6:44 pm
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Originally Posted by Nonfatwater7 View Post
Right...but you used an old plate. This isn't the same thing. This is a rearrangement of the existing plates. Anybody?
I won't tear into it at the moment be side I just feel too lost without the plate movement clarified so I know which plates move where.
Maybe you misunderstood. I removed a steel clutch pack, complete. Then I used one of the old plates at the bottom of the basket, followed by a complete new Barnett alloy clutch plate set, installed per instructions to the specified clutch pack height. The wavy plate was used as per instructions. One detail I forgot, I used new stainless springs and retainers to prevent springs rusting with a vented cover. I did not measure the rate prior to installation.
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post #22 of 25 (permalink) Old Apr 3rd, 2013, 11:14 am
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Ba ha ha ha. .Duke so True...but I bet it grabs good now
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post #23 of 25 (permalink) Old Apr 3rd, 2013, 2:52 pm
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Yes , works great, still rattles some, but children no longer start to cry when I pull up next to their car at a light.
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post #24 of 25 (permalink) Old Nov 22nd, 2013, 11:23 am
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I have carried out this mod on my 999 and can confirm that the nasty racket of tabs slamming into basket is completely eliminated.
My understanding of what is happening is that with the standard arrangement, all tabs operate in the parallel section of the slots but if you put a friction plate at the bottom, it jams into the curved section at the bottom of the slots and stabilises the whole pack when the clutch is engaged.
This not only cuts the racket but also cuts the wear - win-win!
Apparently though, it is possible for the sharp edges of the tabs of the added friction plate to cut into the curved section of the slots and eventually create a step, which will then impair clutch action, so it is a good idea to radius the tabs to roughly match the curve of the bottom of the slots to stop this happening and keep the clutch action nice and smooth.

Last edited by Old rider; Nov 22nd, 2013 at 11:36 am. Reason: Clarity
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post #25 of 25 (permalink) Old Nov 17th, 2018, 1:29 pm
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Just a random bit of help for anyone doing this on a hypermotard 1100 or any of the other later model dry clutch bikes that have the curved section on the bottom and a very full plate stack. You will find that you cannot put the one friction plate in the back and get everything to work because you'll not have enough engagement room for the pressure plate on the front.
It took me a lot of time to figure out a method that would work to allow the full clutch stack, needed for the big motor and my love of wheelies, and have just enough preload on the basket to quiet the clutch...
eventually I figured out if you put one friction plate at the bottom it will not sit down low enough, but if you evenly file down the tabs on it just slightly it will sit lower in the basket... However because the basket is curved it will still jam in place.
Since you are likely using a used friction plate, I recommend filing the side of the tab that has the deformation from slamming into the basket. Just a little filing on that one side for every tab, you don't have to do both sides, and you will have its it slightly lower. You don't have to worry about being very precise.
After figuring this out and doing it a couple times to other bikes that could not do the quiet clutch mod, I now do this mod using the belt sander. Have a small belt sander and I just touch each tab to it. as I mentioned before it doesn't have to be precise they just have to be about the same size.

The end result is my hypermotard having a dead silent clutch when sitting in neutral, and a normal Ducati clutch with the clutch pulled in. It also has normal engagement and the gripping power to let me clutch it up. Win-win-win.

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