MTS 1200 airbox modification for "free" hp and torque - Ducati.ms - The Ultimate Ducati Forum
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post #1 of 84 (permalink) Old Oct 25th, 2012, 5:34 am Thread Starter
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MTS 1200 airbox modification for "free" hp and torque

Hey Guys!
Finally got around to writing up the report on the airbox modificatin that Tom at Hypertrick came up with.
I figured this info is good for everyone as it gives free hp and torque for no cost whatsover!

The basic theory is that you need to open up the left side of the airbox to increase airflow and change the airpulseresonance
(whatever.. as long as it works right?)

Doing the modification is easy and requires allenkeys for the right side fairing and the airsnout/intake channel from the nose.
A dremel or similar for doing the snout and soldering iron for the left side mod plus a good flashlight.
All the work is done from the right side/throttle side of the bike.

Ill assume that you have removed the RIGHT side fairing

RIGHT SIDE
Remove the curved hardplastic airchannel and cut with dremel as shown.
This part of the mod actually does little to increase power..
Only 1hp, but that HP is gained in an area where there is a dip in power and torque.




2010 Multistrada 1200s - engine mapped by tomtom, Öhlins mechatronics SCU and alot of mods to make up for poor skills
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post #2 of 84 (permalink) Old Oct 25th, 2012, 5:34 am Thread Starter
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LEFT SIDE
The Left side mod is the one that does the actaul power and torque increase.
The mod is easy and you can do it without needing to remove more then the right side fairng and airsnout (above).

Basically we are making a hole that follows the inside area of the airfilter on the left (clutch) side of the airbox.
To be able to do this without the need for massive cleanup, we use a soldering iron to "melt" the plastic.

Remove the airfilter and place a good flashlight towards the spot where the airfilter sits against the inside on the clutchside of the airbox (puh).
If you look closely, you will see an outline of the shape we need to cut.
You can mark this further using a marker or knife if you wish.

Use the soldering iron and "burn through" the plastic. Using the soldering iron to melt the plastic leaves no residue inside the airbox,
cut/melt the plastic in the shape of the INSIDE area of the airfilter.
The idea is that the air coming through the hole on the clutchside should still be cleaned by the airfilter before passing into the airbox. Your basically cutting a duplicate of the stock hole , but on the other side of the airbox!
You may want to remove a smaller piece first and "testfit" the airfilter.
Making the hole 100% isnt really needed. (see bottom right in pic below).

Pic taken from right side after refitting airfilter. The airfilter still cleans all the air to the engine.

2010 Multistrada 1200s - engine mapped by tomtom, Öhlins mechatronics SCU and alot of mods to make up for poor skills

Last edited by amullo; Aug 1st, 2018 at 3:43 am.
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post #3 of 84 (permalink) Old Oct 25th, 2012, 5:35 am Thread Starter
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Result:
Green - Stock bike except for Termignoni slipon, Stock ECU, no mods
Red - Mapped bike before AIRBOX mod above.. This is a very well put together map and the bike is silky smooth from 2000rpm to redline
BLUE - Mapped bike plus the airbox mod above.. The biggest increase was FREE and now you know how!


HUGE kudos for tomtom at Hypertrick for doing this for me and letting spread the secret. He doesnt care that much for gold and really had no problem with me posting detailed info for everyone to enjoy.
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2010 Multistrada 1200s - engine mapped by tomtom, Öhlins mechatronics SCU and alot of mods to make up for poor skills

Last edited by amullo; Sep 28th, 2015 at 4:42 am.
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post #4 of 84 (permalink) Old Oct 25th, 2012, 5:45 am
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Interesting, I'll let someone go first though...
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post #5 of 84 (permalink) Old Oct 25th, 2012, 5:55 am
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So, most people are trying to richen it up using fatducs and the like, and you are doing the opposite! I would suggest you not do this to a bike without a PCV or similar to correct the over lean condition that would surely result.

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post #6 of 84 (permalink) Old Oct 25th, 2012, 5:56 am
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Thanks for the write up, and to Tom for sharing...Your pictures are perfect to show what the %$#@ Tom was talking about in his posts. Big Thumbs up!

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post #7 of 84 (permalink) Old Oct 25th, 2012, 7:39 am Thread Starter
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I´ll have Tom give you a feedback on the overly lean condition.. But fatducs would solve that problem even If i feel the remap was worth every penny i spent on it.

2010 Multistrada 1200s - engine mapped by tomtom, Öhlins mechatronics SCU and alot of mods to make up for poor skills
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post #8 of 84 (permalink) Old Oct 25th, 2012, 11:32 am
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MTS runs lean oem, particularly above 8k, so you need to make it richer, but then the hp is free so to speak.
Amullos bike is just serious fun to ride, like a big Merc, it just pulls really hard from the very bottom end.

And to stay ahead of comments on that warm air will get into the engine, it will not as soon as you start moving, we tried a car in the wind tunnel with temp sensors on (a car with a bonnet that keeps air capsuled during standstill being much worse) at 35mph the temp inside the engine bay is the same as outside.
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post #9 of 84 (permalink) Old Oct 25th, 2012, 1:26 pm
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Yes, it would be good to see the A/F ratio before and after on the dyno.

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post #10 of 84 (permalink) Old Oct 25th, 2012, 10:54 pm
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Interesting post. How about the ram air effect at speed? Will the new opening and lack of positive airbox pressure kill performance at speed?
I'm not chastising your idea, I'm asking...
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