Removing Termi Baffles - Ducati.ms - The Ultimate Ducati Forum
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old Dec 8th, 2007, 7:18 pm Thread Starter
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Removing Termi Baffles

When I got my termi slip-ons for my Paul Smart my dealer asked if I wanted the baffles removed or not and noted that they must be removed with the slip-ons off because they have to be slide out from the inside. In mid-summer I attempted to remove them myself by pulling the slip-ons off and removing the allen screw that was tack welded on. A steady twist on the allen screw broke the tack weld on the screw but not on the small tube through which the screw ran. To my dismay the baffles did not simply slide out after the screw was removed.

Does that tube need to come out too? If so, how do you break that weld? Anyone got some pointers here?

Also, does the ECU need to be recalibrated after the baffles are removed? I have read here that they might need to be, which means a trip to the dealer anyway.

2006 PS 1000LE, 2 into 2 Termi slip-ons (baffles out), Fleda (with ears), lower fairings, Rizoma conical bar ends - black, polished Paul Smith hand made fork guards, CF hugger, 14/41 gearing, and Sato rearsets!

'89 CBR 600 (sold)
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old Dec 9th, 2007, 9:46 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NJ-DUC
When I got my termi slip-ons for my Paul Smart my dealer asked if I wanted the baffles removed or not and noted that they must be removed with the slip-ons off because they have to be slide out from the inside. In mid-summer I attempted to remove them myself by pulling the slip-ons off and removing the allen screw that was tack welded on. A steady twist on the allen screw broke the tack weld on the screw but not on the small tube through which the screw ran. To my dismay the baffles did not simply slide out after the screw was removed.

Does that tube need to come out too? If so, how do you break that weld? Anyone got some pointers here?
The only weld is the tack weld on the screw. Some of the baffles require some extra effort to get them out. I had Termi 2:2s. The baffles were easy to pull out. On the Termi 2:1 the baffle was stubborn and required a lot of effort to remove. Once I got the baffle out I filed the outer edges down a bit and now the baffle is pretty easy to remove and replace.

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Also, does the ECU need to be recalibrated after the baffles are removed? I have read here that they might need to be, which means a trip to the dealer anyway.
You cannot recalibrate the ECU but you can tune the bike to perform better.

I have the Termi 2:1 pipes. The bike runs better with the baffle left in and I'm happy with the sound as it is.
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old Dec 9th, 2007, 11:34 am Thread Starter
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How did you push the baffles out? Dowel and a mallet or by hand?

2006 PS 1000LE, 2 into 2 Termi slip-ons (baffles out), Fleda (with ears), lower fairings, Rizoma conical bar ends - black, polished Paul Smith hand made fork guards, CF hugger, 14/41 gearing, and Sato rearsets!

'89 CBR 600 (sold)
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old Dec 9th, 2007, 1:44 pm
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How did you push the baffles out? Dowel and a mallet or by hand?
I pulled the baffles out. On the 2:2 there is an inner lip that I grabbed with some vice grips. On the 2:1 there is a small bar that I grabbed. A slide-hammer dent puller - with proper the attachment - a hook for example - would work great.
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old Dec 9th, 2007, 4:51 pm
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Originally Posted by geospencer
A slide-hammer dent puller - with proper the attachment - a hook for example - would work great.
That's what I did. You can get these things from NAPA I think for really cheap. Use the hook....slap slap....out she comes.

Bob Hancock
Blairsville, GA
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old Dec 9th, 2007, 7:21 pm
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On the Termis for the GT there is a vertical pin at the outlet end of the baffles. I just bent a coat hanger and slid it around the pin then tugged on the coat hanger with a pair of pliers and voila.

Jeff
Red GT1000: - Termis (sans baffles), bar-end mirrors, Clay Carrier fork protectors, Motovation frame & fork sliders, Dietrich's gauge brackets (these rock), Front turn indicator spacers removed, 1.0 kg/mm fork springs, Fork Oil: 7 wt.comp, 5 wt.reb, 15/44 F/R Sprockets, Gold DID Chain, Chain guard removed (to show off the chain)...
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old Dec 10th, 2007, 1:38 pm
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Is there any way to repair the allen screw hole after your ham fisted dealer half-assedly drills the allen screw out (but leaves part of it in there)?
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old Dec 10th, 2007, 3:20 pm
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The only way I could get them out (after the bolt heads threaded - I think they're made of cheese) was to drill out the heads (I did this with the 2 into 2's on the bike). I saw no problems doing this and can put them back in with a self tapper screw. The baffles themselves pulled out with a good pair of pliers.

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Is there any way to repair the allen screw hole after your ham fisted dealer half-assedly drills the allen screw out (but leaves part of it in there)?
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old Dec 10th, 2007, 11:03 pm
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I heard that drilling a few holes to the internal part of the Termi baffles results in a sound that is louder than stock pipes but not as loud as completely removing the baffles. Has anyone else heard of this?

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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old Dec 11th, 2007, 12:24 am
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Don't know anyone who has tried it, but it certainly should work. There are very few holes in that tube.
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