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96 900ss/cr - upgrade from 4.5 to 5.5 rear rim

13K views 42 replies 21 participants last post by  Rex Coil 7 
#1 ·
Greetings fellow Ducatistas,

I own a 96 900 ss/cr and my rear tire needs replacing but I want to go to a 180 tire vs. replacing my current 160. Problem is the ss/cr comes with a 4.5 rim, while the ss/sp comes with a 5.5 rim.

I called Ducati dealer here in Arizona, and the parts guy tells that the swingarm will have to be changed as well. The ss/sp came with a aluminum swingarm, while the ss/cr has a steel one.

But I hear from others that the 5.5 rim will fit perfectly on the current ss/cr swingarm.

Has anyone done this and can offer some clarity please?
Of course, if this can be done, challenge is finding a good condition 5.5 rim.
So I will proactively ask this as well....can I go we after-market light-weight rims (assuming I cant find a 5.5 rim?)

btw - I searched for about an hour on the forums before posting. So I apologize if my question is redundant.

Duc@ti

Current Rides
2008 BMW R1200 RT
1996 900 ss/cr

p.s
I recently upgraded the front forks to adjustable ss/sp type.
 
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#4 ·
I can only speak for FI models but it should work fine.

Check the front sprocket to make sure it aligns properly with the rear sprocket. On the FI bikes it just requires you to flip the front sprocket and it will be correct. you will also have to adjust the chain guide that is on the swing arm.

Cheers, Brew
 
#5 ·
I wondered this same thing, but what about the hugger? My 95 900SS/CR has the OEM 4.5" wheel, but a PO had pinched a 180 onto it. With that tire, I could not get the hugger in place, when I went back to the correct 160 the hugger fits fine. I had always assumed the swinger would have to change in order to do this swap the "right" way meaning everything that should be there will fit properly (I realize a lot of you will advise to ditch the hugger regardless).
 
#6 ·
All the SS wheels with same axle diameter are the same. Just need a conical washer/spacer if you don't have one. It goes on the sproket side against the bearings. You do NOT need a new swingarm.
 
#10 ·
haha the fat cati!!

no with a 180 rear you get more tread on the sides when leaning so have more grip ;) my theory anyway haha plus it looks better :p :p :p :p :p
 
#9 ·
Yeah it is no problem, if you get all the right pieces at once. Or you can even get creative. I put a 5.5 on with a 170 Q2 and it looks pretty nice, i went the creative route.
As stated before, just look for an 900SS wheel instead of a CR, be sure to ask if it's 5.5. Try to get one with the correct spokes to match your front.
 

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#11 · (Edited)
Hey guys,

Got a 750 SSie and had a misshap with the local tire shop who ended up offering to pay for a "new" rear rim. I eventually found a brand new 5.5 rim for the >99 900 series on ebay for 200 Euros + shipping and went for it so now it's kinda to late.. Realized the 160/60 is to small so I've ordered a 170/60. Really do not want to loose agility but with the extra rim weight I suppose I lost anyways. :alien:

So now I'm anticipating the delivery guys within a week or two and am concerned about the "bolt on" match. :(

Basically it seems my options are:

a. flip the front sprocket and adjust the chain guide

b. use a conical spacer "if I don't have one already" :confused: When I removed the rear tire there was a conical spacer inbetween the sprocket and the rim bairings. Just reuse this and I'll have no issues? Or add a spacer to the rear wheel which would offset (uncenter) the wheel to the right?? :confused: :confused:

Also read somewhere that the cush drive and spacer for the 4.5 and 5.5 differ, should I go looking for the 5.5 setup or will I be fine with what I've got?
 
#14 ·
OEM wheel assembly is the same regardless of the wheel width or swingarm material. If you already have a functioning bike you have everything you need to swap wheel widths or swingarm types. The only thing you need to do is flip the front sprocket around to align the chain correctly; biased to the inside for the 4.5" rim, biased to the outside for the 5.5" rim.
 
#15 ·
Never heard about flipping the front sprocket. I just measured the width on my 4.5 and spare 5.5 rim.
There is no difference in hub widths. (approx 6 1/8")back of disk to outer cush hub rubber.

95CR. front tire 120/70/17, Rear 180/55/17 speedometer ten MPH higher.

Front sprocket flat both sides , i see no way flipping it will make a difference.
 
#17 ·
The front sprocket should have a protrusion on one side, about 1.5 CM or so. See attached photo.

Take a look at the parts diagrams, the only part number differences showing are the wheel itself, all the other parts are shared across all models.
 

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#19 ·
swingarm spacing is the same. the sprocket carrier is often different. With the 4.5 wheel and the rear sprocket closer to the centerline of the bike you have the front sprocket protrusion facing out. When using a 5.5" the front sprocket is flipped with the protrusion facing in.

IIRC the 750 and 900cr carriers are the same, later models (monsters SS?) the factory started using the same carrier on all but different cone spacers to center the wheels.
 
#23 ·
... just out of curious concern, what does the unsprung weight difference measure out to be? I'm speaking of the stock 4.5"/160 combo vs the 5.5"/170 (or even 180) ensemble comparison.

I have to imagine that going from the 4.5/160 to the 5.5/180 increases rotational weight as well, which might have an influence on acceleration rates, along with additional unsprung weight.

When I used to race SCORE off-road/desert events (back in the 1980s ... y'know, before fire was discovered) the general rule of thumb was handling was affected by a ratio of 1:10. Meaning for every one pound of unsprung weight added it "felt" as if ten pounds of sprung weight was added.

Anyone know what those weight differences are (spec'd above)?

Thankies!! :smile2:
 
#25 ·
I dont know about not being able to find 170 tyres any more mate, I got 1 in last week for my 91 900ss, I normally work on BMW's and alot of them use a 170 rear tyre--I have yet to have a problem finding rubber----and as to size of tyre I race on a 130 80 18 rear--far skinnier then a 170 or 180, and I probably can go around that corner faster then you can on your 170 or 180 the contact patch size is basically no different between the sizes.Ride on what you feel comfortable on but the 180 will be slower in the transition then the 170--unless you change the rear shock to one a hair tallier or you can jack up the preload on the rear if you have a preload adjustment-there are lots of things that can be done for handling etc--but mine I leave basically stock and it will handle just fine, unless you are putting the bike on the track or ride hard enough to drag your knee;s thru the twisties all the time--leave it alone, Your bike can probably do more then you are capable of
 
#28 ·
Speedo will read (10 mph higher with a 180).
Sorry, maybe I'm completely stupid, but can you explain this to me?

How do you know that it would be 10mph? if you're going 5mph it's going to say 15mph? At 100mph it's going to say 110mph? Also, wouldn't a larger tire reduce the indicated speed as opposed to raise it like you're saying since a larger rolling diameter makes fewer revolutions at a given speed?

I would love to be understand this better since I have a 180 rear on my Supersport.
 
#30 ·
That was my next question...
 
#31 ·
The 5.5 wheel is a direct swap for the 4.5 inch on the 900ss/cr. No special parts required, just lift and shift. You can still get 170 tires but the selection seems to be much much better with 180. One odd thing though is the original 16mm bearings on these rear wheels are deprecated with Ducati in lieu of a thinner bearing and matching spacers which are freakishly expensive. But you can get the original spec 16 mm bearings by skf online.

And the speedometer is driven off the front wheel so no change there either ;)

Cheers


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#34 ·
If I remember reading this post people are talking about MPH on the speedo--NOT R.P.M. --the front wheel is where the speedo drive is--Changing a rear tyre size from a 170 to a 180 --WILL NOT cause your speedo to be off---you could put a 15 in tyre on the rear of the bike the RPM would be way higher but your speedo reading would still be correct --RPM does not have jack to do with speed reading on the speedo---same thing as changing sprockets --your RPM range changes but it does not = speedo being off
 
#35 ·
Put your Bike on a Dyno--ok-the rear wheel is spinning like crazy your Front tyre is not turning--ask yourself--@ 6K RPM (rear tyre turning) --what is your speedo going to read--Just to make this perfectly clear--your Speedo will read Absolutely Nothing----The size of the rear tyre has fuck all to do with MPH reading on your Speedo---does if effect your RPM at a given speed? Yes --But NOT the MPH reading on the speedo
 
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