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post #51 of 131 (permalink) Old Jan 21st, 2013, 11:10 am
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Originally Posted by wobblyas View Post
Never tried a Nichols flywheel on the street but I lighten the stock ones to about 1kg which seems about the right compromise to me .....and as we have a lathe in the workshop it is very cheap to do. I guess it depends on what you use the bike for and what compromises in comfort and smoothness you are willing to tolerate.

Hope this helps.
A Nichols flywheel on the street is fun fun fun.

The lighter clutch components saving 3 lbs or so is another great way to save weight. It's worth it even if the original clutch isn't worn out in my opinion. Mine is showing some problems with less than 10,000 on it, so I'm thinking of upgrading.
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post #52 of 131 (permalink) Old Jan 24th, 2013, 7:24 am
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Need help picking a clutch kit

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Originally Posted by Spitfire View Post
am i the only one that likes the loud clutch? I LOVE it.
It distinguishes our bikes from all others out there...
I LOVE pulling up to a light next to a Hardley Ableson and watching the RUBs face when he hears my SS 900 ei rattle and tick next to him or her. Not a single one will bother to ask or say anything at the standard length light, they tend to ignore me. But if stationary for more than a few minuets they look at me and say something like, "Hey dude, can you hear that?" and point at my motor. I just give them the age old sign of I can't hear you... ( hand to side of head and shake my head.) I get the RUBs every time.

Old dog...

P.S. I guess I better explain RUBs. Rich Urban Bikers. RUBs. $20 grand and 200 miles a rider does not make.


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post #53 of 131 (permalink) Old Jan 25th, 2013, 5:53 pm
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Adige Clutch plates

Hi

I just installed an 'ADIGE' clutch plate kit on my DUC 900 SS from 1997, took me 20 min. in total, paid 122 for a full set (friction + plain plates) incl. shipment from Italy to Belgium.
checkout ADIGE, they are the manufacturer from the old Vespa clutches, and have a full range of other clutch kits, incl. slipperies etc.

I got mine from www.nextbike.com, very good service

I will report back on quality, I have not ridden her since I found she has an oil leak while working on the clutch...

Jens
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post #54 of 131 (permalink) Old Jan 27th, 2013, 5:29 am
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Re: Need help picking a clutch kit

Leeland... Don't feign deafness... Tell them its a diesel and watch the look on their face, its either shock, or the best is "ah, yes of course" I even heard a guy in my local ask his mate if those diesel engined Ducatis were fast.
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post #55 of 131 (permalink) Old Jan 27th, 2013, 3:16 pm
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Need help picking a clutch kit

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Originally Posted by iFlungDung View Post
Leeland... Don't feign deafness... Tell them its a diesel and watch the look on their face, its either shock, or the best is "ah, yes of course" I even heard a guy in my local ask his mate if those diesel engined Ducatis were fast.
Umm... This I got to try !!! Thanks for the idea, that one I will be glad to carry on, just to see if it will fly here in Texas or not. Some of these Texans don't take well to being fooled... F($k 'm Hehehe...

Old Dog...


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post #56 of 131 (permalink) Old Jan 27th, 2013, 4:10 pm
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Why not just tell 'em it's a dry clutch ?
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post #57 of 131 (permalink) Old Jan 27th, 2013, 4:31 pm
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Need help picking a clutch kit

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Why not just tell 'em it's a dry clutch ?
You miss the fun in goofing with the wanna-be riders. Those coffee shop heroes who own twenty thousand dollar motorcycles and ride them 200 miles a year and know all there is to know about every bike rolling. RUBs. Got to love the RUBs. What would we do without them.

Old Dog...


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post #58 of 131 (permalink) Old Nov 9th, 2017, 6:19 am
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Resurrecting an age old question, but times have changed

I feel so stupid as I have been concerned about all the threads about steel plates and alloy baskets and hubs and wear and suitability

yes I have searched and researched!

The stupid part is that finally looking at some images, it dawned on me that some alloy baskets have steel "inserts" that bear the brunt/impact of steel plates.
Obviously (now to me) they provide light weight, but durability of steel.
I am not that concerned about light weight, just parts that work.

I have a fairly new full set of Newfren steel plates, where they are sintered (steel) not organic (aluminium)

To me the next challenge is to find a hub that will suit steel plates.
Lots of reading and research and none the wiser!

I just want to source and buy a hub, steel, hard anodised or whatever that will work with steel plates.

Barnett seem to do the basket with steel inserts, but there may be other options.
Just not sure what hub would suit my steel plates.

Any help/genuine experience appreciated.

Richard Collins - 2001 900SSie I have a 2 strike policy - 2 no responses from a poster = no more responses from me to any post by them. I have a good memory!
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post #59 of 131 (permalink) Old Nov 9th, 2017, 8:33 am
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Outside of a slipper inner clutch hub and a cush drive less version I do not know there would be any change from a oem unit inner hub. I do not think I would remove the inner hub cush unit as it helps protect the gearbox, though a slipper clutch also protects the gearbox from damage.

I am NOT a fan of dry slipper clutches on the street as they often chatter more when you are trying to pull from a stop and in theory most road riders do not gain much by having the slipper so it can more bling than benefit with a touch of pain in the ass added for good measure. Higher maintenance as well as the more you use the slipper function the more the plates wear so you need to re-stack more often.

Sintered metal frictions exist because of slipper clutches so they last longer between re-stacking the slipper but IIRC they are all steel backed ( and in aluminum outer baskets). The problem with them is they are also much more prone to chatter when you are pulling away so you gain longevity of the friction material over oem but also gain PIA in stop and go usage. Since I often see non slipper oem friction materials go 50,000 miles without wearing out I see no reason to not run oem plates. This also allows you to run later style aluminum backed plates so wear will in theory be lessened, I am not sure it works out that way in reality from my experience. I do not see one versions tabs lasting that much longer than the others so they do not appear to make much difference in anything but sound.

I have sold a few of the Barnet outer baskets but simply have not seen them back with enough miles to say if they are better or worse than a conventional basket. I would have preferred the basket had steel inserts that could vary in thickness so as they wore the tabs you could tighten the stack back up. Instead they are riveted in thin strips of what looks like spring steel so I do not know how they last long term.

In all I often recommend finding a superbike guy that has installed a slipper in his low mile bike and buy his old (mostly new) whole clutch assembly for less than a new oem pack. If you buy from a pre 1098 it is a drop in and aluminum basket and plates as well if you care. After that oem clutch packs and outer baskets are pretty interchangeable pick what you can get a good deal on and you like the looks/sound of.
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post #60 of 131 (permalink) Old Nov 9th, 2017, 10:52 am
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Ducvet is, of course, correct and is based on years of experience.

I just went through this myself, I'll add some stuff I found from doing it for the first time and approaching it like you. I picked up a Ducabike roller-hub slipper with an aluminum basket and pressure plate for very little money (less than the cost of just buying the Ducabike basket new!) with low mileage usage, but it needed a clutch pack. Thus my search for data began.

As you know, there are three types of basket material - Steel, Aluminum, and Hybrid. Aluminum baskets get aluminum plates, steel baskets and baskets with steel inserts get steel plates. Otherwise the material hardness is disparate enough that you get accelerated wear on one or the other. Usually it's someone installing steel friction plates in an aluminum basket and wearing grooves in the basket. You can extend the life of a basket like this by re-stacking the plates and swapping the convex plate to the other end of the stack - this offsets the pack by one plate width to get the frictions aligned with the non-worn portion of the drum. You might extend the life of the basket by about 25% by doing this and it will definitely make the whole thing quieter.

The OEM hub and steel drive plates showed no significant signs of wear when I took mine out. Stick with the OEM hub unless you have a specific need to change. Your replacement kit should come with steel drive plates, usually they are OEM drive plates.

So it's a matter of matching plate backer to the basket, and friction material you choose. Unless you have a specific need for sintered (slipper clutch, racing application, etc) get the organic material.

In my case, aluminum basket with a slipper hub, I picked up a set of sintered aluminum plates, Ducabike makes them and they were priced lower than some of the other brands out there when I ordered them from Bellisimoto. I don't know that they are better or worse than any other, but they were specified for my clutch by the manufacturer. Haven't felt any chatter on them yet, they felt just like normal. Some people swear by Barnett, others swear off Barnett before you even say their name. Surflex is another brand to look at, and others.

Really, you can't go wrong with OEM plates, and I believe you can get them in steel or aluminum depending on the part number. Ask at your local parts counter, or if they aren't able to help (as some dealers seem to be) try calling the Motocorsa parts counter in Portland, Oregon - Marc and Miles have always been excellent to me.

1994 900 SS/CR
2017 939 Supersport S
It's Italian. If I can get it to start, it'll win.

Last edited by psyopper; Nov 9th, 2017 at 11:01 am.
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