So I was replacing the rusty clutch springs on my '95 SP with stainless ones when I found out that someone in the bike's past had stripped almost all of the little spring retainer bolts. (I understand that this is pretty common).
A set of left-handed drill bits helped me get them out fairly easily, but I wanted to replace them with something less likely to pose the same problem in the future.
I've read that oil or anti-seize on the threads can help, but I've had a lot of bad experiences with hex screws over the years and wanted to make super-sure this wasn't going to happen again. I like trying to find a Torx alternative, since those don't strip nearly as easily.
Most of the time the head rounds out (as opposed to stripping the threads) and yes that is a pain. It happens most when they are over tightened or soft (stainless steel) fasteners are used, no need to worry just always attack them as it they are about to round out before you touch them and you will not have a problem. Always use a sharp tool and seat it well in the first place. They are low torque as the springs help keep them tight so no need to loctite or make the little bolts super tight. If unsure use factory torque spec and a proper torque wrench.
The stainless socket heads are easier than a standard steel to round out but can be used with care as above. I have not tried the torx head in this application but it should work fine too, torx-plus would be better still but you need to make sure your bit is correct as well because a standard torx fits a torx-plus but increases the chances of rounding the fastener and breaking the bit.
I always try to use anti-seize on bolts when they are dissimilar materials such as stainless and aluminum or hardened steel. Effective way to avoid corrosion. When I replaced the zinc chromate bolts on my engine with stainless (cosmetic change only), I put a small bit on anti-seize on each one. There are instances when anti-seize shouldn't be used such as brake fitting bolts; and it can alter the torque specifications.