Hooking up throttle cables on a 1995 900 SS
Are there special tools required for this task???
Sent my carbs in to Custom Carb Services for a rebuild. Now I can't seem to get the top cable into the right position to hook up. Took the cable out of the slot at the handle grip which gave me more slack - but still no joy. Perhaps it's my old hands or old eyes!
Don't know what the flat rate is for this job but I'd be broke working at a bike dealership doing this all day long - at least with my success rate so far. Searched this site as well as others and stuff on taking them out but nothing on showing how to get this part reinstalled. My Haynes manual is also of little/no help.
Thanks - bike sold to next door neighbour who has the title and I have his money so ....
Thanks for any suggestions.
Perhaps this would be easier if the carbs were not on the bike? Hard to see between the carbs when they are mounted, dark, standing on your head, etc..... Then you will know they work as designed, you can pull on the cables when carbs are out on the workbench, under good light.
Sorry no special tools.
As Fred said mount the cables on the carbs at your bench and then put them on the bike. F
I have the carbs off still but really didn't want to remove more "stuff" unless I really had to.
I'll do as you suggested and hope to have them hooked up and back on before the snow arrives tonight!
agreed easiest to get the cables in place prior to fitting carbs into manifolds, affords maneuverability.
Opening the throttle with fingers using the gold, circular cable guide (between the carbs) gets access to the rear slot (can't remember whether push or pull) Get each cable *end* located in its respective slot before pulling and final location in the gold holder. Start with the cable adjusters set at maximum freeplay (to ease pulling and locating) and when in place, adjust accordingly. Note you MUST leave a few mm of outer cable freeplay....you are looking for free "snapback" at the throttle assuring throttle plates are fully closing. Use and adjust freeplay to achieve both throttle snapback and adequate freeplay at the throttle.
Undoubtedly actually easier to do than to type/explain (as my above rambling would indicate)
I've recently rebuilded my carbs and also attached the cables after I mounted the carbs.
And I'll have to agree to the above; it's probably easier to attach the cables prior to mounting the carbs.
But anyway; in my case it wasn't to difficult.
Maybe I was having some 'beginner luck' but they pretty much snapped in place with the first attempt.
The things I used were a long nose plier, a fine pulling hook and an extra set of hands.
I don't remember exactly how I did it but I know I removed the cables (or loosened them there, don't remember) from the mounting bracket which is attached to the float bowl.
My daughter pulled the cable towards the exact position and with the long nose pliers I popped it in place.
One remark here (as bigbadass2 allready mentioned) : if you follow this procedure; make sure you adjust the freeplay to the exact point (at the mounting bracket). Too tight and you'll end up with a throttle cable which doesn't snap back, too loose and you'll end up with too much free play in your throttle.
So - carbs rebuilt and back on the bike. I did make a "special tool" to hold the carbs open (out of a coat hanger no less).
Neighbour now has bike and went on his first drive - came back with a big smile - and an issue.
The side stand was now loose and putting the light on. In checking our site it's obviously a common issue.
I'd not driven the bike or used the side stand since buying it back. MCC must have missed this too when they did the complete inspection etc.
However, new owner's OK and accepted that he's now in the "drivers seat".
The rest of the lug is missing so not sure about welding. Don't even understand how one could weld this without splitting the cases.
Has anyone made a repair kit for this?? Can't find one, just lots of posts to make up a new plate using the remaining holes.
I plan to call the SM at MCC tomorrow but thought I'd ask a highly experienced member like you.
If you can find a truly talented welder & machinist, this can be repaired w/o case splitting.
Years ago I had a (Honda 750) case welded with excellent results, but this guy was the best.
I cannot over emphasize the need for a welder who will not cook and warp everything.
Perhaps removing the motor would help in regards to position.
Alternatively, a repair plate is an easier fix. (approx. 1/4" steel plate)
Previous owner of my scooter obviously went that route and it works OK, but I do check
fastener tightness periodically.
Excuse the crappy pix -
If you want, i can take a few measurements - let me know
Yes I have had worse than that repaired, some will want the engine removed others will do it in the bike frame. It will be best if you clean it 100% first.
know that it is a good chance it will work but that depends as much on the welder you find, this is not a job for a amateur. Check your local airports for certified welders and look at the work they have done on aluminum to be sure. I have a guy if you drive to NH but that would be quite extreme as i am sure there is someone closer for you that can do the job.
Love to drive to NH!!
We're from Nova Scotia originally and took many trips "home" through upper NY, VT and NH on the way home back in the day.
You live in a beautiful part of the world!
New owner's still evaluating options locally...
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