95'CR build, in a parking garage & inexpensively! - Ducati.ms - The Ultimate Ducati Forum
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post #1 of 85 (permalink) Old Feb 14th, 2019, 12:58 pm Thread Starter
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95'CR build, in a parking garage & inexpensively!

Hey everyone, I thought I would start a little build thread on here. I guess it's not really a build, but we all love these threads right? This is my original thread where I got help discovering just exactly what I had bought, special thanks to Ducvet and Belter!
https://tinyurl.com/yy3xjdq3

What will set mine apart is that unlike a lot of builds I see, I don't have a proper space OR proper money to get it done! And I don't often see people talking money on builds, but I will because the bike is not that far away and I'm going to be trying to get most stuff via eBay and Craigslist. But don't worry, not in a knockoff no-name brake master kind of way, in a used Brembo Goldline kind of way.

But I am 44, and if not now when? I can't let apartment life stop my dream! When I get a proper garage and outfit it with 10K worth of lifts and tools I'll be 11ty and barely able to breathe through my coil piston!!!

So I hope you will enjoy following along with me, proving that you can learn anything, and get it done with mostly proper hand tools in your apartment parking garage!

So let us get started. What did I buy, a 1995 SS CR with 10K miles and a bit of a story, for $1500USD.
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post #2 of 85 (permalink) Old Feb 14th, 2019, 1:12 pm Thread Starter
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The Story:
Original Owner cracked a crankcase around the kickstand mount. Had contacts at Ducati factory. Sourced a bunch of NOS. Took the bike apart. Never repaired it.

The man I purchased it from, who is a multinational multi super sport enthusiast, had taken on the project. Put motor back together with son. Started finishing the bike. Motorcycle accident. New priorities. Focus on Nortons.

The Good:
New Cases
New Belts
New Clutch Plates
New Clutch Basket
New Clutch Springs
New Cylinder Studs (current research looks like a new factory of the type known to break, not sure yet)
New Main Bearings
New Fuel Pump
New Battery
Valved checked and in adjustment
"New" 1997 SS factory replacement frame w/Vin

The Bad:
Swingarm is knackered cosmetically
Original Brake lines
Original Clutch lines
Bodywork is knackered
Tank has 2 small dents on corner
Tires are destroyed
Leaking carbs

The Truth:
Truth is based on what everyone here has helped me discover, is that the bike has been crashed, and potentially this is when the damage to the tank happened. Whether or not this is when the frame cracked or the engine case was cracked....who knows. It has a new frame, which explains why the frame looks brand new, and the swingarm looks like it's the proper age. But regardless of this, a lot of the bike has way less than 10K miles. And it appears that all of this stuff was done on the up and up and not in a quick hack it up.
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post #3 of 85 (permalink) Old Feb 14th, 2019, 1:18 pm Thread Starter
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So I have a decent idea, thanks to the PO, what needs to be done to get her back on the road. I'm trying to be frugal with this so I'm breaking down the refresh into MUST HAVE / Upgrade 1 / Upgrade 2 / Don't be dumb.

So we'll start with the MUST HAVEs and see how far we go, I'd love to get into the Upgradephase 2 stage!

Here is my starting parts list and price estimates, which I think are based on research but may be based instead, on bullshit!

Parts
Item Estimate Cost
MUST HAVE
  • Chain $60.00
  • Rear Sprocket $60.00
  • Front Sprocket $60.00
  • Rear Seat Peg $41.00
  • Front brake line $40.00
  • Rear brake line $20.00
  • Clutch Line $20.00
  • Front Brake Master $140.00
  • Clutch Master $140.00
  • Tires Front $90.00
  • Tires Rear $90.00
  • Front brake pads $20.00
  • Rear brake pads $20.00
  • Carb Rebuild $100.00
  • TOTAL $901.00

So I'm estimating 900 USD for parts, and 1500 USD for the bike. Putting the total cost of getting the bike on the road roughly around 2500USD.
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post #4 of 85 (permalink) Old Feb 14th, 2019, 1:24 pm Thread Starter
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So maybe you are saying, well you don't NEED new brake and clutch masters. You'd be right but there are a few things I want to upgrade as a matter of course. And I reserve the right to buy more parts whenever I want out of the plan, but I'll try to stick to the plan.

So I tracked down some parts.

I got a full seat on eBay, to which I've removed the peg, and put that on my bikes better seat. I'll relist the seat on eBay to recoup part of the money.
41$

I found, also on eBay, some NOS Galfer double front brake lines for a great price.
52$

I also managed to find a great price on a full Goldline brake master, with lever and reservoir on eBay.
49$

And finally, the PO sold me his 2 carb rebuild kits with the bike.
100$

So far I've spent 242$ on parts, some of which can be recouped. And so far, I'm below budget because that brake master was a good deal.

Current Spend
1742.00 :-)
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post #5 of 85 (permalink) Old Feb 14th, 2019, 1:31 pm Thread Starter
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So I started taking the bike apart to do the carb rebuild. A few discoveries were made here.

The bike is missing the little black fairing that goes between both side panels. Do we care?

The bodywork is f'n knackered. I'm prepared to use it till Upgrade Phase 2wo, but it's gonna be rough.

It's missing the washers behind the side panel bolts.

The right side turn signal plug is missing 1/2 of the plastic connector.

The airbox lid has been chopped "open" I guess this is ok?

Also while I did this, I had the battery charged up, and the bike did indeed start and turn over.

Here are some pics from taking this bitch apart.
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post #6 of 85 (permalink) Old Feb 14th, 2019, 1:39 pm Thread Starter
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And for fun, we can talk about where I'd love this bike to go. Originally I thought it was nice enough that I could just get her back on the road, flip it, and then get a real project bike. But now I think it's cheap enough to do whatever I want so fuck it. But what do I want to do?

Mostly I'd just like to upgrade to "sp" or "916" quality components where it makes sense. Forks, rear shock, masters, slaves, calipers. The final PIECE DE RESITAWNCE' would be a 1000ds swingarm, and until I find one this bike will wear it's steel swinger beat up and proud.

Cosmetically, I just want a cleaner CR. I'd like to remove the turn signals, a small update on the rearview mirrors and then a mono tail from the guys in Denmark you can see in the photos.

If I ever got that far...i'd be tempted into looking at the 2nd gen SS or I guess 916 dash replacement as the original just looks shit. I want the bike to remain original where it matters, I don't think an ugly cluster matters if replaced with factory originals!

I 500% plan to keep the square headlight, but I'm wondering if there is a way to modernize that a bit as well. I REALLY like the look of the fairings without the signal lights in there.
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post #7 of 85 (permalink) Old Feb 14th, 2019, 1:59 pm
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Nice start sir!

Most do not want to know what a build costs but having a budget is always smart, often they tend to grow.

To be honest I do not know what I would do with the cylinder studs, to change them it would be a big job to access the top cylinder. BUT if they were installed recently they may not be frozen in place and more likely to break on removal. Hard to say what would be best, certainly if you get the opportunity to change them I would and sooner might be better than later for the reason I mentioned.

You did a good job of reading my mind as I was reading of upgrades under the must have list, lol. Some of your costs will be close but some are probably not far off. The front sprocket can be had for closer to $25-30 but I would roll that savings into a better chain as I have seen poor life from cheap chains. You should find a good quality chain in the $85-100 price range. rear sprocket a JT should be close to $40 so again cheaper parts to allow better parts where you need them.

Clutch and rear brake lines are more cosmetic than necessary for me but that may just be me. $20 front brake pads ? is that a used set because it does not seem enough to cover 2 sets of anything I would trust my life to. Used good pads would be better than new poor pads.

Tires- Find a local track day guy with a sv650 if you have the 160/60-17 or most anyone else running a 180/55-17 if you have the non-cr 5.50" rear. Track take offs are often $100 per set for excellent tires and they often have 90% of the wear on the edges and no wear in the middle. Some will be worn too much to be anything you want but I have numerous customers who put brand new on every year and run about 800-1000 miles a season. They put the take offs on their own street bikes but some times have more take offs than they need and sell off the spares. Pay attention to born on dates and do not run any race or DOT race tires on the road.

You can do the build on the cheap with your labor but be picky and cautious with deals, don't rush things and you will be having a ball quite soon.
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post #8 of 85 (permalink) Old Feb 14th, 2019, 2:24 pm Thread Starter
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Thanks for the support and tips on track day take off tires, those prices are for some new Continentals I found on ebay. But I think used tires would be fine.

. Brake pads, were one of the bullshit cost estimates. I found prices all over the place. And my sprocket/chain estimates come from dividing a kit /3.
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post #9 of 85 (permalink) Old Feb 14th, 2019, 4:23 pm
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The cracked case at the sidestand likely means that they original owner had bypassed the auto-retracting side stand, left the stand down when he rode away, and on his first left hand turn the stand threw the bike out from under him. That's when the tank got dented. Just a guess though.

The frames crack. It's what they do, and it's probably not associated with the accident. If the bike sat around for a while you're likely going to find most of the rubber bits are worn, leaking or otherwise non-functional. If it was like my experience, about every 250 miles I rode, another rubber piece died. Clutch slave, clutch master, fork seal, shock seal, igniter (not rubber, but...), shift rod seals, primary seal, etc. I'm pretty sure the valve stem seals are bad too, but 5000 miles later and it's not terrible so I persist.

Most of what you identified to repair or replace can easily be done in the driveway, most of them over a single day so your property managers probably won't hassle you too much. I did the same with a Miata, the only time I borrowed a friends garage for a few days was to install the roll bar.

I "modernized" the headlight with a little bit of self-fabrication to use a standard 7" rectangular headlight, which isn't quite the same size as the stock, so I self-fabricated a little more and tucked it "behind" the front fairing and put a piece of plexi in front of it. I used a Trucklite LED headlight. The socket on the bike is standard H-4, as is the housing.

For replacement fairings, take a look at Airtech. There are a good number of places doing good bodywork out there, and these guys are on par with any of them, but they've been around a lot longer and keep their catalog of stuff for really old and esoteric bikes alive. It would be a loss to the motorcycling world to lose a company like Airtech, so I like to keep them relevant in peoples minds.

I've always wanted to try to put some M6 base turn signals in the forward fairing holes, it should be relatively do-able. You'll need to re-do the blade/socket ends on the loom, they're significantly narrower than a standard turn signal blade.

What's ugly about the dash? You can get replacement foam, that's usually what degrades first. Keep an eye out for gauges, or send yours off to get refreshed by a pro.
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post #10 of 85 (permalink) Old Feb 14th, 2019, 6:34 pm Thread Starter
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Good tips thank you. I plan to replace as many hosage as I can as I put it back together.

That reminds me. Should I get some rolls of some hose types or something? Hahahaha

The panel is fine I just think if it's gonna be my bike there are just a few bits that imo date the bike more than I like. But that is on the don't be dumb list so highly unlikely to ever be fucked with

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