95'CR build, in a parking garage & inexpensively! - Page 2 - Ducati.ms - The Ultimate Ducati Forum
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post #11 of 85 (permalink) Old Feb 15th, 2019, 8:14 am
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Keep in mind when buying tires unseen there are born on dates on them. If you buy new old stock you should be safe out to 5 years old, after that the tire will lose traction AFTER use. So if you put 1-5 year old tires on they should lat the same. If you put on 6-7 year old tires you may have less traction sooner than the newer tires **** Even though there is plenty of tread***. New /fresh shinkos would likely be better than 6 year old michelin/dunlops, etc.

When at school I rebuilt my ex500 including motor swap,swingarm and forks all in the driveway. Outside, uncovered. In the middle of summer in Phoenix Az. I learned if I put a wrench on the ground I would burn my hand picking it back up soon after. You can do most anything but choose your battles wisely and be smarter than me.
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post #12 of 85 (permalink) Old Feb 15th, 2019, 8:54 am
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Looking at your pic of the front master, I'm constantly am by the fact that people can't be bothered to go to the local hardware store to buy the proper bolt. What that tells me is that as you go through this build you will likely find other bodged up "fixes."

96 916S Marvic mags, Ohlins, Scott's, CF bits & bobs
95 900SS stock but for carbon cans
62 Monza Jr. A whopping 160 with no body parts!
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post #13 of 85 (permalink) Old Feb 15th, 2019, 9:58 am Thread Starter
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You know with everything else on the bike, I actually did not notice those bolts on the master cover. I did make 1 fastner discovery already with an Allen head instead of a 10mm Hex holding down the airbox/batterybox. But that made it easier to be honest.

I've done a tiny bit of research into buying bolts in China. I know I said I would not put crap on the bike, but research has told me that a lot of Titanium and such, comes from China anyways. I actually bought a dozen aluminum clutch slave Banjos on a lark, just to see. They look fine so running them on my other bikes, no issues. So I'm not particularly scared of those types of items.

Is there a fastener list somewhere? Maybe the master mechanics out there know a good general use list of fastners that any good Ducati owner should not live without?
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post #14 of 85 (permalink) Old Feb 15th, 2019, 10:36 am
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I usually stick to oem if possible as they have the least issues other than age. Cost per bolt is likely too high for a ground up build but one at a time it is okay.

Stainless is next as it is often the next strongest but poor quality will egg out the Allen holes easily so if in doubt replace them.

Ti and aluminum come last as they often are the weakest so put it in non-critical spots and buy good quality. I used a retail aluminum kit on one of my monsters and it was horrible. The heads would snap off and the threads would be locked so I had to drill many of them out. No thanks. Ti is good usually but not cheap so there is that.
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post #15 of 85 (permalink) Old Feb 15th, 2019, 5:28 pm
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Just my $.02 on fasteners.

If you are going aftermarket, I don't think it matters so much where the fastener comes from, but rather the quality with which it is made. Normally, that means more $$. Not always, but normally.

Aluminum fasteners I'd only use to secure body work. An application that requires little in the way of torque.

Stainless I'd use almost anywhere, dependent on strength. That is, a grade 5 or grade 8 equivalent. Any lower and there's no point in using it. Soft socket heads round out easily. Not a positive upgrade if that happens.

Titanium being as expensive as it is, and also subject to the same grade 5 or grade 8 strength equivalent, I'd use on parts where saving weight is beneficial beyond just saving overall weight. That is, I'd use it where I can to reduce unsprung weight. Rotor bolts, caliper mounting, axle pinch bolts and sprocket nuts.

With either the Ti or SS, I'd not use lower than the grade specified by OEM for a steel fastener. Use a softer Ti bolt in a rotor bolt or caliper mount and have it shear off.....I'd rather not think about the result.

If you're planning on using Ti for body work or other non-load bearing application, it probably doesn't matter what the strength or hardness is. However, in that case I'd just use aluminum...but that's a difference in taste or expense.

Buying a cheap aluminum bleeder is one thing. Buying cheap Ti for structural or load bearing applications is quite another.....sean

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post #16 of 85 (permalink) Old Feb 15th, 2019, 7:47 pm
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I bought some 6mm stainless Allen head bolt assortments on eBay, which replaced most of the case bolts, belt cover bolts, and a lot of miscellaneous non critical fasteners. The bolts I removed were cleaned up and used in more critical areas and I now have a good stock of replacements in various lengths to use as needed. Donít buy aluminum fairing bolts on eBay, the heads break off very easily on some and itís not worth the risk. The stainless bolts Iíve bought on eBay in 5 and 6 mm are decent quality, itís just not possible for me to say how reliable they really are.

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post #17 of 85 (permalink) Old Feb 15th, 2019, 10:51 pm
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I got my stainless assortment from Desmo Times so I'm fairly certain they're legit. I got my Aluminum assortment from Pro-Bolt so I'm equally confident in them. When I order my Ti, it'll be from them too.

I ordered an aluminum fastener assortment from eBay and the stuff is not great. I'd use it maybe for some non-critical, next to zero torque applications but that's it. As the bolts are button head with a flange, there is limited application for them anyway. Really though, that's what prompted me to order from Pro-Bolt.

That old axiom about getting what you pay for is mostly true. There are exceptions, even on Chinese manufactured stuff found on eBay though.....sean

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My garage: Twins:2000.5 Mille R, 2000 996, 1994 EX500 basket case 1993 900SS. Suzukis: 2004 GSXR600, 1992 GSXR750 oil boiler, 1983 XN-85 Turbo
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post #18 of 85 (permalink) Old Feb 16th, 2019, 8:20 am
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Tires:
Cycle Gear always has some type of sport tire on sale. Got their new catalog in the mail yesterday, Bridgestones S21s $179/pr (180 rear) $184/pr (190 rear).

Don't like Bridgestones? Give it a month or two. I bought Contis for my BMW two months back around the same price, and Pirelli Angels for my 675 a couple months before that.

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1999 Cagiva Gran Canyon (stolen January 2019)
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post #19 of 85 (permalink) Old Feb 16th, 2019, 1:53 pm
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Headlight for cheap: first, take the original unit off, cut out the little silver plastic shield inside with some side cutters. This isn't needed as modern lightbulbs have a built in shield. Then wash the inside and glass with alcohol. Install a high quality H4 lightbulb.

Next, wire in two automotive relays, with a separate 10ga power circuit direct to the battery (with a fuse of course) using the original skinny headlight power wires to trigger the relays. There is enough space up front to hide all this neatly, and the relays and wires should cost less than $30 total and easily gives you 1-2V extra at the headlight which drastically improves it's color and output.

Enjoy a more modern looking, bright white headlight whose output matches a modern bike.
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post #20 of 85 (permalink) Old Feb 16th, 2019, 4:00 pm Thread Starter
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good tips on fasteners everyone. I like the idea of engine cover bolt kit yielding a small surplus of nice factory bolts. I think I'll do that on my other bike, and then I'll have those newer bolts to use on the old gal'

I recently purchased some of those coated stainless axle pinch bolts for my other bike, from Pro Bolt. and they seemed pretty great.

The Titanium from China that I looked at was Grade 5, so maybe it's ok!
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