95'CR build, in a parking garage & inexpensively! - Page 11 - Ducati.ms - The Ultimate Ducati Forum
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post #101 of 110 (permalink) Old Jul 5th, 2019, 11:14 pm
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Originally Posted by Erics75218 View Post
That makes sense Sean...I can see a sliver of metal in the radial slot. I'll go down and try again!
Hope I caught you before you went down to work on your project. I went out to the garage and messed about with mine for a few minutes. Not too difficult....mine is in pieces all over the garage.

This is ridiculously simple. As you already have the clutch master cylinder off, just remove the lever.


Take the pin out of the cylinder and rotate the choke until the two halves disengage. Then just take the screws out.







The outer half with the thumb tabs has two small tabs that engage the inner half. Once you have the lever off and the push pin out, you only need to turn outer half another 1/16 of a rotation and the two tabs will disengage from the inner half.

Like I wrote above, ridiculously easy.....sean

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post #102 of 110 (permalink) Old Jul 6th, 2019, 2:27 am Thread Starter
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I got no ability to apply heat guys. Don't forget I'm just an asshole in an apartment block! I think I can find someone local to break those bolts, then I can rebuild them, INCLUDING the little o ring in between the halves. I HOPE!

It appears this is a long term project, HAHAHAAHHAAH thank god I have a couple other bikes!!!
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post #103 of 110 (permalink) Old Jul 6th, 2019, 2:29 am Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Iwannaduc View Post
Hope I caught you before you went down to work on your project. I went out to the garage and messed about with mine for a few minutes. Not too difficult....mine is in pieces all over the garage.

Like I wrote above, ridiculously easy.....sean
"then just take the screws out" YOU ASSHOLE, if it was so simple!!!! I'm not some JEDI as you are! Seriously though thank you for the photos it will help me in the morning. You make it sound much more simple than I am experiencing, making me think I'm REALLY fucking up........
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post #104 of 110 (permalink) Old Jul 6th, 2019, 8:31 am
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Originally Posted by Erics75218 View Post
I got no ability to apply heat guys. Don't forget I'm just an asshole in an apartment block! I think I can find someone local to break those bolts, then I can rebuild them, INCLUDING the little o ring in between the halves. I HOPE!

It appears this is a long term project, HAHAHAAHHAAH thank god I have a couple other bikes!!!
If you are close to a Electric outlet a good quality head gun will probably give you all the heat you need .You want it hot enough that you can't touch it

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post #105 of 110 (permalink) Old Jul 6th, 2019, 10:12 am
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You make it sound much more simple than I am experiencing, making me think I'm REALLY fucking up........
Seriously. Once you take the lever off and the pin out, just rotate the choke until the tabs disengage. You'll be looking right at two screws. No faffing about, you just unscrew them from the master cylinder. That's it. There isn't anymore to it than that. You'll see what I mean if you follow those steps. It really is that easy.

You'll want to remove the lever anyway to lubricate the pivot at some point so why not now?

On the brake caliper side......I still recommend getting a high quality, precision fit set of hex tools. They'll pay for themselves in the long run when you don't strip Allen heads out.

That said the heat doesn't have to be applied in your parking garage. Buy yourself a cheapo pot at the Dollar Store. Boil some water. Drop a caliper in and let the water boil again.

Wear gloves, and remove the caliper. You *should* be able to break the bolts loose right then and there if the Loctite has been softened by the heat. That's cheapest way if you have no other method of heating things up.

There are other options you can try, but this is the least destructive to the finish on the calipers aside from using a heat gun. Also an option in your apartment versus the parking garage. If you don't have one, Harbor Freight sells one for like $20.

If you really get desperate get a butane or propane torch and use that. Don't let it sit still, move it around on the caliper until it comes up to temperature. Extinguish the torch and remove the bolts.

That one, you can do in your parking garage....I mean, unless security comes along and stops you. .....sean

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Last edited by Iwannaduc; Jul 6th, 2019 at 10:20 am. Reason: added the word "and"
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post #106 of 110 (permalink) Old Jul 6th, 2019, 11:37 am
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Originally Posted by Iwannaduc View Post
...That said the heat doesn't have to be applied in your parking garage. Buy yourself a cheapo pot at the Dollar Store. Boil some water. Drop a caliper in and let the water boil again.

Wear gloves, and remove the caliper. You *should* be able to break the bolts loose right then and there if the Loctite has been softened by the heat. That's cheapest way if you have no other method of heating things up.
Good suggestion.

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Originally Posted by Iwannaduc View Post
There are other options you can try, but this is the least destructive to the finish on the calipers aside from using a heat gun.
A heat lamp saturates the entire part without the risk of roasting any finish. It may also be done in the house. A clip-on work light outfitted with a heat lamp bulb can be had fairly inexpensively. You'd need to buy the work light if you don't already have one, and the heat lamp bulb is usually easily found since they're the same ones used in some bathrooms.

WORK LIGHT ($10 bucks) LINK = https://www.amazon.com/Simple-Deluxe...SIN=B01E9IY6US

HEAT LAMP ($9 bucks) LINK = https://www.amazon.com/Philips-Heat-...SIN=B0066L0YJE

*When I owned/operated an industrial power equipment repair shop (fifteen years, 7k ft/sq shop, eighteen employees ... 1994 to 2009) we used that same set up to reassemble pneumatic impact wrenches after rebuilding them for customers. The air rotor inside of the aluminum housing is a very precise fit, so much so that without saturating the housing with heat it is impossible to slip the rotor into the housing. Probably used the heat lamp rig a few hundred times for just that procedure, not to mention any number of other tasks.

However, a fella has to do what a fella has to do. So if another method is more comfortable then by all means go that way!




Quote:
Originally Posted by Iwannaduc View Post
If you really get desperate get a butane or propane torch and use that. Don't let it sit still, move it around on the caliper until it comes up to temperature. Extinguish the torch and remove the bolts.
A great deal of care is suggested when electing to use that method. It's all to easy to scorch the part or the part's finish if focus and attention is not held to. Not to mention it may also ignite any brake fluid left within the caliper. I'm not saying it's a bad idea, I am saying it's something that requires careful execution.

I like the boiling water thing, and the heat lamp thing. The torch thing is my 3rd choice out of what's been suggested so far.




*We were the factory authorized warranty, repair, and installation center for over forty different manufacturers, such as Makita, Black and Decker/DeWalt, Milwaukee Tool, Ryobi, Porter Cable, Chicago Pneumatic air tools, portable generators/RV generators/Emergency power generators for casinos, airports, police departments, fire departments, hospitals, communications repeater stations, the U.S Army, the U.S. Marine Corps, as well as electrical contractors, plumbers, home builders, tire shops, new car dealers, high schools, colleges ... as well as welding equipment made by Miller Electric, Lincoln Electric, Hobart, Victor Equipment, Smith Equipment, and Harris Welding as a certified torch and regulator repair center.


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post #107 of 110 (permalink) Old Jul 7th, 2019, 5:00 pm Thread Starter
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Thanks a lot guys, I managed to get the Choak cam off after seeing how it was put together. Thank you so much IWANNADUC!!!

Great tips on the heat suggestions. I'll give the boiling a go before I try something else.

Got a more precise fit on my clipon setup now as well. I confess to have read about the brake banjos hitting the dash before, but it's so damn close. I can get about 2mm from the stops on the lower tripple. Maybe that's enough, maybe it's not. Maybe I need to go with a 1 into 2 front brake setup. Also who knows how they will work with the bodywork. I'm gonna leave em' for now. All the switch gear and cams are on the bars. My throttle is NOT smooth, it returns very slowly. It wasn't like this before, even after I reinstalled the rebuilt carbs, I've bound something up which I'll have to debug.

Since it appears that I'm redoing my front end, I guess I need to drop the front wheel at least to check the wheel bearings. Maybe I don't have to drop it to do that, i'll search about.

I ordered some M8x40 bolts for the caliper rebuild. I think I can get some stuff from KTM, or say fuck it and get a kit from Gotham for 78$, need to do a bit of research. The bolts are Grade 5 titanium, 30$ shipped from Wanyifa in China.

I guess progress is progress, but it feels like I'm "dicking about" I really thought I could just do a couple things.

But as everyone said I've been 100% afflicted with "as long as it's off" full balls.

Speaking of balls, the old clip on looks BENT AS BALLS eh....
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post #108 of 110 (permalink) Old Jul 7th, 2019, 11:38 pm
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Originally Posted by Erics75218 View Post

Speaking of balls, the old clip on looks BENT AS BALLS eh....
Yer welcome, and yeah, that clip on looks like mine did before I got new ones. Glad you got the choke off......as for the wheel bearings.....that's a whole different ball of wax......sean

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post #109 of 110 (permalink) Old Jul 7th, 2019, 11:47 pm
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....Speaking of balls, the old clip on looks BENT AS BALLS eh....
Oh man! ... that thing is SO fuckered up!

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post #110 of 110 (permalink) Old Today, 4:12 pm Thread Starter
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I AM ALIVE! Ok finally got everything I needed to remove the stripped bolts holding the calipers together. I had to buy a Impact Driver and Drill set, lucky to find last gen for 99 bucks!

The bolt removers broke, of course. But the drill bits worked fine. Only one stud remains frozen in it's home. I need to buy some vice grips and pull it out.

I tried to pull out the 3 or 4 pistons that I had some meat on them where i could grab them reasonably, no dice. I'm not sure how easy they SHOULD come out. I know you can blow them out with compressed air, so I may see how I can go about that next. In the meantime, I think I'm just gonna buy a full rebuild kit, including pistons.

I'l dunk the caliper halves in the ultrasonic cleaner and get them properly cleaned up.


I don't know if I mentioned it, but the throttle is now sticky as hell, no longer springs back and such...where it did before i replaced the clip ons. I can't help but think this dual cable throttle setup is way to much complication. If FCRs meant a simpler throttle cable, that there might be enough of a reason. I really am not looking forward to debugging that issue.

I have some beautiful new Titanium caliper bolts I ordered from Aliexpress, grade 5 titanium for 31$. Took a long time to get here but worth it. Made some updates to the budget, as I find myself adding things that are "must haves" the overall cost is going up, but I'm trying to get alternative with my ascuisitions to save money. Compared to Pro Bolt, the Wanyifa Titanium bolts are over 1/2 the price. At any rate I got about 1K to spend to get all the must have stuff done. It's taking ages, but that's fine. I just hope the engine will still turn over by the time I get it ready to start. Damnit.................

Note - The bolts are listed at Grade 5, same as Pro Bolt. I notice Pro Bolt states that the country of manufacture is the UK. But with China being the #1 producer of Titanium in the world. One has to wonder where Pro Bolt gets their "Raw" Titanium with which to "manufacture" bolt shaped Titanium objects that they sell. A quick Google search finds many UK Titanium stockists of Raw Ti stock, but I do not find any Raw Ti manufacturing or smelting or however you make RAW Titanium, anywhere in the UK. So odds are it's all bought from China anyways. Speaking of anyways, if your still reading this...ANYWAYS....hahaah <3

Note 2 - I sound like I'm bashing Pro Bolt, I am not in anyway, their product is great and I still buy from them. But for this project, I'm trying to keep the costs as low as possible partly for the fun of it. So I find it interesting to learn about the Titanium industry and get me some bolts direct from the source...etc. BTW if anyone needs a Clutch Slave bleeder valve in black aluminum, let me know I have 10 of them, as I am running one on my 748s, they were cheap in bulk so I bought bulk. FUN!

Note 3 - My next bike repair will be to my 748s, because I took it to have some front head shake debugged (front axle out of round, so new Axle & Co hardware)...and they TOTALLY botched my spedo' cable routing it in an insane way and breaking it. So now I get to learn how to do that repair. KICK ASS [email protected]@@@#@#@##@ mother F*CKER!
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Last edited by Erics75218; Today at 4:34 pm.
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