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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old Aug 17th, 2018, 5:10 pm Thread Starter
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New to me 1995 900ss/cr

Hi, I've posted before on this forum for advice on a potential purchase of a 999 but otherwise I've been lurking and reading up on some of the great info here. In the meantime I picked up a new to me 1995 900ss/cr. I've been cleaning it up and taking note of any issues I'm running into and I'd love some feedback on these.

1. the dash fusebox has a graphic on the cover showing a 30 amp fuse in the top position. My bike has no fuse in that position (empty) but seems to operate just fine. Is this normal or should I be looking for some hacked up wiring? EDIT: Found a 30 amp fuse wired in behind the panel. This will go on my to do list to fix but for now a non-issue.

2. the kill switch in the off position still allows the bike to turn over. It won't start but it will turn. normal or perhaps related to #1? EDIT: This is normal.

3. the bike starts, idles, runs smoothly with no smoke or sputtering. Until about 7000 rpm at which point it sputters. This is consistent at the same rpm regardless of gear or load as far as I can tell. I know the previous owner had the fuel filter replaced about 1500km ago. I've done the following checks with no effect:
- Compression is about 130 per cylinder measured hot. Low, but within spec I believe.
- Spark plugs look the same front and rear, a bit carbon'ed up but otherwise normal. Gap was a bit wide at .030 Changed to fresh plugs gapped at 0.025, no effect.
- Air filter was only moderately dirty. Installed new air filter, no effect.
- Drained and replaced the fuel in the tank with fresh fuel. After a good long ride to clear any old fuel from the lines and float bowls, still no effect.

I'm leaning towards weak spark, coils or wires for #3, any thoughts? I'm new to carburators so beyond looking at spark I'm a bit stuck at the moment.

Thanks!


Last edited by Jetta03; Aug 18th, 2018 at 1:54 pm. Reason: Updates
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old Aug 17th, 2018, 6:42 pm
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The first 30A fuse is the Master. if there is no fuse in there, someone must have re-wired the bike. The kill switch disables the ignition. The starter will still crank. In fact I use this "feature" to pump oil around the engine before starting the bike. #3 could be spark or carburetors. Can you tell if it is related to one cylinder? You have already replaced the plugs, so I would try swapping the other ignition components front for rear (wire, igniter, coil) to see if anything changes. When doing the swapping you want to ensure that you maintain integrity of the front and rear ignition chains so that the cylinders still fire in proper order. After that, I'm past my "expertise", so someone else will have to help.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old Aug 17th, 2018, 8:41 pm
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For #3, I'd be tempted to pull the carbs and go over them. Take everything apart. Spray cleaner and compressed air thru each passage. Then, set your float height. If your float height is low, your bowls can get drained at high rpm causing it to cut out. Set the needle and air mixture screw to stock. The air mixture screw wouldn't really cause the problems you are indicating, but the needle could. If the needle is too high, you are dumping too much fuel to the point it won't light. This could explain the carboned up plugs, but several other things could as well that are no-neverminds. If the problem persists after cleaning out and setting the carbs to stock, I'd move on to spark. The problem is, its hard/impossible to test the ignition system under load. You can test everything statically, but that isn't really your problem.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old Aug 17th, 2018, 11:51 pm Thread Starter
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Thanks for the information. I'll swap the coils and see if it makes any difference. I did measure impedance across the positive and negative terminals tonight and saw about 5.2 ohms on both coils.

A couple pics for reference. The fusebox, I didn't notice the green corrosion in the empty 30A slot that the camera picked up. Question, are all the slots normally filled like this? Second pic is the old plugs replaced today with fresh. They look darker in the pic than in person as well, some tan on the insulators.



Another piece of info, the last owner had some carb work done in 2018. Receipt indicates 2x starting jet and emulsion tube. Again having no real carburator experience I'm not sure if these could be related to the issue #3 above.


Last edited by Jetta03; Aug 17th, 2018 at 11:57 pm.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old Aug 18th, 2018, 8:32 am
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Starting jets are almost never changed, emulsion tubes are a wear item and are changed. It sounds like the previous owner was chasing the rich condition. I would get the bike to a dyno that can pull air fuel and see whats going on. Your description makes it sound as if you are road testing the bike to the problem area, correct?

The bike should pull to 8000rpm pretty cleanly with a noticeable drop in power around 8000, there is no rev limiter on these bikes.

What is the airbox condition?
closed lid
no lid
drilled lid
no airbox?

You are on the mains at 7000 wide open throttle (where I assume you are testing). there should be little to no change from 6000 rpm in that scenario so it would be hard to say jetting unless the bike is loading up. I see bikes that have a open airbox jet setup and a later owner puts a closed lid on for noise reasons. be sure to test both with a open and stock closed set up looking for improvements. The black plugs could also be from a enrichener circuit being stuck on, make sure the enrichener are shut off at the carbs.

Make sure the ignition boxes are oem kokosaun , there should be matching writing on them. Take pictures and post if need be. There are ignition boxes being sold that have a re-limiter that it way too low, I have seen it first hand on my dyno more than once. OEM or ignitec are the best bet. I rarely change coils and see more issues by far with aftermarkets , I do see wire and cap issues so a fresh set of NGK wires/caps are never a bad place to start.

The high rpm at full throttle is the clue that it is either loading up, starving for fuel or losing ignition. A dyno run set should point you in the right direction quickly but if you are patient you can get it without one.

Yes the 30a fuse should be there to function so look at what they have done, fix this first as a shorting wire could cause a running issue when that is the circuit that feeds the whole bike and you lose ignition/fuelpump without it.

The fuse box should have ....
30a main on top
15a for ignition and fuel pump
15a high/low beam
7.5 turn signals,tail light
7.5 stop light and horn
the rest are simply spares

So from your picture things are not quite right. I would figure out whats up with the electrical firt and then see if it fixes your running issue.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old Aug 18th, 2018, 8:34 am
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Those jets plug easily and the emulsion tubes wear causing poor running so good that they’ve been replaced. They don’t have anything to do with operation at 7000 rpm though. If the plug wires and caps are original I’d try changing them next, and make sure the wires are fully seated in the coils.

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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old Aug 18th, 2018, 8:58 am Thread Starter
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Thanks everyone. I believe the ignition modules are OEM (pic below). Just out of curiousity I ran through the fuses checking one at a time. The positions for Ign/pump, high/low beam, signals/tail, stop/horn all appear to handle the correct circuits. The fuses in the bottom 3 positions seem to do nothing, they may just be spares stuck in there by the previous owner but I'll pull the cowl off and see what is happening behind the panel, particularly with the empty main slot. I went through the coils and ignition boxes and cleaned up all the connections and terminals and visual checked the wiring. I found no obvious issues but I'll report back after a ride if there was any effect.


Note, there was a question about the airbox setup above. It is stock airbox, fresh stock filter. Airbox closed and sealed. The only deviation from stock I can see is the 'horns' that face forward on the airbox lid are missing.
Thanks


Last edited by Jetta03; Aug 18th, 2018 at 10:16 am.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old Aug 18th, 2018, 9:27 am
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As Ducvet said, only the first 5 slots in the fuse box have any function. It is customary to store spare fuses in the other locations in case one of the functional ones blows and you get stuck.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old Aug 18th, 2018, 11:48 am Thread Starter
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So following the cleanup of the ignition component wires and connections, no change. Took a quick ride this morning and the bike still sputters. Always at 6.5-7000 rpm. Still independent of load or gear. Grabbed a pic of the newly installed plugs after the ride...

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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old Aug 18th, 2018, 12:18 pm
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That is the oem ignition box so as long as they match you are good.

Next try removing the entire airbox lid and hold the filter in with zip ties or safety wire, make your speed run and see if the bike gets better or worse at your problem area. At this point you are trying to figure out if the bike is rich or lean so if you get it to the problem area and hold it there just crack open the enrichener to see if a bit more fuel helps or hurts. Try to do one change at a time.
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