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What do you think and what do you think its REALLY worth? '96 900SS CR w/mods

5K views 44 replies 17 participants last post by  bruce19 
#1 · (Edited)
Been looking for 999's, but came across this and I'm interested. Yeah I know its down on power vs a 999, but this thing is cool and has soul. Going to call on it. No, its not original, but it appears to be very clean, well maintained and tasteful mods. Within last 100 mi's new belts, valve adjustment and fluids change. 13.6k miles & asking $5.5k.......

**I'm pretty handy with mechanics/tools, but sometimes I'll let a professional work on my bikes if time is not on my side. What should I expect to spend at a Duc dealer or private shop to do the typical belts and 2v valve adjustment for this bike?**

Yes, I'll ask the right questions and look for the obvious areas of concern/problems regarding this model of bike. What do you think?

Ducati 1098 forks with radial Brembo brakes
MotoCorse triple clamps
EBC rotors
Woodcraft clip-ons
Rizoma grips
Remote Brembo reservoir brake and clutch
New Dunlop Sportmax Q3 tires
Sharkskinz bodywork with custom paint
D&D exhaust cans
2005 M900 longer rear shock
Powder coated frame, swingarm and wheels
Ceramic coated headers

Let me know your thoughts/advice on anything specific outside the "normal" know problematic area questions I should ask the owner........thanks in advance. After looking at it I'll report back.
 

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#2 · (Edited)
That’s a very nice SS. I don’t know what the Ducati market is like in your area, but I’m sure someone would be asking around 5k if it were here in Michigan, though what they’d get is the question. It’s not a strong market for old Ducs here. As reference, someone is selling a SS upgraded to an 1100 for 5k.
 
#4 ·
Thanks for the feedback. Seems simple enough. I'm just trying to gauge what people think of the bike and is it something that is worth north of $5k, etc. The market in my area is weak for Ducs. This isn't my first Duc. They seem hard to sell unless they're being given away. I'm on the fence about it. Will go look at it soon.
 
#5 ·
Interesting upgrade to the front end, wondering if it was done for a reason (crash?) but it's a good looking bike and the half-faired versions of that aged model have always been attractive to me. You wouldn't find one as decent as that for that money here in Australia...actually I'm gunna go look through bikesales right now...
 
#7 ·
I may be a supersport fanboy but I think the price is fair if the mods done are what you want and the service history is in order. The frame and wheels have been powder coated and the bodywork looks to have a fresh nice paint job. I see details that it is a CR but if that does not bother you then who cares. From the 2 pictures posted it looks to be a frame off clean up. That is far better off starting point if it was done right than buying a "cheaper" bike, this owner may have done most of the hard work for you so you get the better bike for much less in the end.

Get service history and details on any mods/work done. A full tune is about 5-6 hours on a 900ss labor wise so look at local labor rates to do the math. Belts are available from Ducati for about $140 or aftermarket for about $80 a pair. There is no added labor to put belts on when you do a service anyway. Add in oil and filter,gaskets,plugs and clutch /brake fluid. In other words about $100 additional parts should cover you if using synthetic oil.

Look to see if the rear wheel is a 5.5", common upgrade and I would be surprised if it is not given the forks installed. He obviously cared enough to do some nice mods and it does not look like it was left outside under a tarp much. Ask if the frame was welded at the steering head, this is a good possibility why it had the frame painted/coated, That should be a plus. Check for chrome studs on the motor and deduct some value if they are still chrome. It does not mean you will have a issue with them but you may.

If the frame has been properly repaired, studs changed and a non-Ducati electronica rectifier on there I should think the bike should have most of the major issues covered already.
 
#10 ·
They look like the crappy Kawasaki copies from various online sources.
If so, there is a strip of LEDs in the mirror, which from my experience was the best part.
 
#11 ·
Check the rear swingarm for cracks where it bolts on. Mine cracked there and I had to replace it. I'm partial to full fairings myself but that is moot really. The aftermarket fairings and fork upgrade would lead me to suspect a past accident, but that wouldn't be a deal breaker as long as everything looks straight. I've laid mine down a couple times without any serious damage and they are easy to work on and repair. Mines 25 years old now and it still is a great bike, just as fun now as the day I rode it home from the dealership. I don't think I'll ever sell it even though I only take it out on the odd track day or road trip anymore.
 
#12 · (Edited)
Hey fella's. Thanks for the input. Pics don't do it justice. Went to see it today. ITS MINE, SNATCHED IT UP!! So excited!

This bike is very nice from all aspects. Original no-cracked frame & swing arm. I thought only the alum swing arms cracked; steel ones crack also?

Frame VIN matches title. Has original parts, so no accident history. 4.5" rear wheel. It was well thought out and put together. He's a gearhead and OCD like me, so I know all was done correctly (LOL). Can't wait to get it in the curves!!!! Judging by his size/guessed weight, I'll have to make some suspension changes in the rear shock - either crank it down more or just change the spring. What do you think it needs for a 215# new owner?? :wink2:

I'm gonna enjoy this thing! I'm going to enjoy learning about this bike from all of you experts also!

BTW, what are the mileage service intervals for belts/valve adjustments/oil/filter. He told me but I forgot.

Thank you all again, I truly appreciate your info and help. Back on a DUC! Yeaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaah!
 
#14 ·
congratulations,
On those the belts are scheduled for every two years, however plenty run them longer, especially if it's ridden often. Valve check/adjustment is every 6k miles and oil and filter changes not sure but yearly or every 3000 miles seems about right.

It's nice but i'm curious why if it's a 900 it has a steel swingarm and a 4.5" wheel, they were on 750SS not 900SS (at least over here, can't say for sure on US bikes)
 
#15 · (Edited)
L888,

Thanks for the service info. This is a 3rd bike in the stable, so I'll definitely be riding it at least every other weekend for safe spirited engagements in the mountains.

I could be wrong about the swing arm being steel versus aluminum (guess I need to put a magnet on it), but the rear wheel is 4.5" - saw the 4.5" identifier mark on one of the wheel spokes.

I remember finding/reading this thread about the swing arm, which leads me to believe mine is steel. The welds lead me to believe its steel.
https://www.ducati.ms/forums/57-supersport/108771-96-900ss-cr-upgrade-4-5-5-5-rear-rim.html

A wider wheel/tire would look good back there between those D&D's though! :wink2:
 
#18 ·
spacey/duc96cr,

Thanks for confirming that. I'm still wanting to find out if the pattern of cracked swing arms resides with both aluminum and steel or just aluminum only for 900's. Seems like the only pics identifying cracks I see on here are the aluminum swing arms. Can anyone confirm?
 
#19 ·
It's only the aluminum swingarm that cracks.

In the US the 900 SS/CR was essentially a 750SS (coffin masters, steel swingarm, 4.5" rear wheel, non-adjustable fork) with a 900 motor in it. The swingarm is interchangable between the models, many steel swingarms were traded out for aluminum ones.
 
#23 ·
Nice buy!

Yes as others have said the CR had the steel swingarm (you have), It may not be as sexy as a aluminum but they have been 100% problem free. Considering the paint it does not look bad so you would have to be picky to "upgrade". I would check that the swingarm is properly shimmed at the swingarm pivot as often they were loose from the factory and if painted the paint may wear causing it to loosen.

The rear 4.5" wheel is only a issue if you do not like the looks, a 5.5" can come from a supersport (any year but the water pumpers). It also can come from a 851 or early monster, pay attention to the axle size.
 
#25 ·
Thanks!

Thanks for the info on which bikes are good wheel candidates. What is the current axle size on the bike now; factory stock 4.5" wheel? Again, NOT changing to an alum swing arm - I like the powder coated steel one in-place. Thanks.
 
#29 ·
Yes I do agree that the cheap sheet metal side plates are a little wimpy and DO run the risk of scarring up the swingarm if not properly used. What I was talking about with the trouble free was from a defect (cracking/breaking) aspect, the side plates can make cosmetic damage but they are not an issue structurally. The billet side plates do help quite a bit and if you have a nice painted piece like you do it would be worth the cost.

I have been doing this long enough I am used to seeing the wimpy side plates used on many models and just have techniques that make them a non-issue, plus not everyone will spend the money on parts. For removal use a impact gun as the torque is low enough it should shock the nut/bolt free without turning the side plate. When tightening (or loosening) make sure the side plate is not loose on the swingarm top or bottom, a pair of channel locks will help snug things up but simply do not allow the side plates to twist when tightening goes a long way. Often times a washer between the plate and bolt helps as well.

The chain adjustment marks are just something I never trust on any swingarm regardless of type unless I verify them first, most are simply made poorly and should be considered only a reference point and not a measuring device. I always align my rear wheel from swingarm pivot (fixed point) and axle center, once you get them set the same you can determine if the mark are close enough. In this design I would not trust them other than getting you close enough to ride, for proper setting there is too much room for error.
 
#30 ·
Every time I remove the wheel I tighten those plates up on the swing arm. Measuring between the pivot center and axle center, I was surprised to find the marks are accurate enough to use.
 
#31 ·
I found the alloy swingarm has wheel adjustment issues as well. Over the years one of the adjustment bolts on mine froze in the swingarm fitting. I got it to move with lots of heat, penetrating lubricant, and finally anti-seize. It works, but is still very stiff. I bought new adjuster bolts but am afraid to remove the old ones for fear that I may not the the new ones in.
 
#33 ·
900SSCR

What made the CR a CR was the crappy forks...crappy shock...UGLY as FUGLY frame color..
This bike has a 2K front end...beautiful tail and paint detail.
You couldnt get a CR and make it like this for 5K
If it were mine and I was offerred less than 5K id show you the door..
Now I need to disclose I have about 8K (maybe more)in my SSCR now..
CF goodies from RSR Moto in England(Tail and plate hanger)
Metmachex Engineering Swinger
SSSP Al. Swinger(polished)
41mm FCRs
Kevlar tank
Showa Forks
Ohlins Shock
CycleCat triple
Aftermarket Bodywork
PC red frame
CZ wheels
snowflake rotors
Rare DP valvecovers
944 kit with HC Pistal pistons done right by Millennium
And custom graphics from TapeWorks
And custom paint ...Senna(to match my 2003 ST4S)with red lettering(paint by me still in process)
I need to stop....
Mike S
 
#34 ·
I also need to say yes $5000 or even $8000 is not a small amount of money but.....

After the mods are done and the known issues are gone what other bikes for the money would you buy?

$5000 isn't that the going rate for a old Harley, BMW or Japanese bike? you can have just as many issues with any of them ( I know people bring them to me all the time). Or a new small bike like the ninja 400,R3 or my fav the ktm rc390 . If you find a leftover you might get close to a sv650 for $7000. All nice bikes But I would say not even comparable to a supersport that someone has taken good care of.
 
#35 · (Edited)
900SS CR Problematic Areas

ducvet,

Always appreciate your input. This bike definitely has been put together well; pretty much torn down and completely redone. I am a picky dude, and I couldn't find a single thing that jumped out at me to say "turn around and exit stage".....been there and done that with many bikes/cars. I typically don't buy stuff others have built because I like to do it myself or my way. This bike was done exactly how I would've done it, except for maybe a set of Flatslides and 5.5" rear wheel. He did mention it has a new "rectifier" or something of that sort, just can't remember because we had a long conversation about the bike regarding many things.

So here are my question(s) to you or anyone else who'd like to chime in............

Mechanically (engine/trans) the bike seems really solid.

I know......I know.....HIT THE SEARCH FUNCTION, but I'm here in the zone now and SOMETIMES the search isn't enough, plus info comes to light in threads that aren't even asked in the initial.

In my limited reading of this Supersport model, I've read problems seem to stem rom electrical issues that become problematic. As far as I know the bike still has its original harness/electrical/wiring. What are ALL the "electrical" areas/components I can attack now (even though they may not have an issue) front to back, and completely replace? Looking for exact components/brands/info on where to purchase them. Last thing I want is to be stranded because of inadequate wiring or OEM replacement parts that are problematic when there are better alternatives to be used to give me a piece of mind 50+ miles away from home. Re-post the info or provide links to other threads that might cover/address what I am asking of the aforementioned.

Lastly, does Ducati sell an actual factory service manual for this bike?

And again, GREATLY appreciate all of you member's thanks/help/advice in advance!

Thanks gents.......let the info fly!
 
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