Repairing a rusty or leaking SS tank - Page 6 - Ducati.ms - The Ultimate Ducati Forum
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post #51 of 82 (permalink) Old Feb 15th, 2012, 5:35 am
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My bike has started to seep petrol out slowly. I'm wondering where to buy this POR15 stuff, or an equivalent product in Australia?
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post #52 of 82 (permalink) Old Apr 10th, 2012, 3:12 am
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I know this is an old post, but....

I'm about to do my tank. Not because it leaks, but because it sat for a year plus and the interior is rusted all to hell. Especially the TOP.
I keep reading the directions, and looking at the pics in regards to the tubes. I have all of them closed off from the outside of the tank. I'm assuming this is to keep the solutions from running out all over the place. (a few pieces of plastic aquarium tubing fit the ends perfectly.
My question is, do they need to be closed off from INSIDE the tank as well???
It would stand to reason that the inside of these tubes has 'grown' rust as well, and the POR-13 would address this issue.
Is my thought process correct in allowing the inside of the tubes be treated/coated as well, or am I in left field?

Libertytown, MD
2003 620SS
2007 Ram Hemi
1996 Honda hatch
1982 Kaw LTD 1000(gave away)
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post #53 of 82 (permalink) Old Apr 10th, 2012, 8:52 am
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I would say avoid the inside of the tubes as you could clog them with the solution

2006 800SS Completed....or is it?
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post #54 of 82 (permalink) Old May 7th, 2012, 12:43 pm
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Have a kit ready to go, have spent today removing my tank, emptying it of fuel & all the internals etc...

I have taped off all the tubes & holes bar the big top hole - no-one has said how they sealed this up when rolling the tank around, I take it you left it open & were just careful to not tip any fluid out?
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post #55 of 82 (permalink) Old May 7th, 2012, 1:01 pm
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That is correct. I saw someone used a balloon to fill the void if you wanted to go that route.

2006 800SS Completed....or is it?
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post #56 of 82 (permalink) Old May 7th, 2012, 2:01 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by red_johnny View Post
That is correct. I saw someone used a balloon to fill the void if you wanted to go that route.
Cool! Will have a go tomorrow...
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post #57 of 82 (permalink) Old May 10th, 2012, 5:44 am
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I have a to-do list for my carby which I am steadily working my way down, eeeking out all the niggles & weirdness which they are known for & hopefully making this into a very competent tidy reliable motorcycle! (stop laughing at the back!)

This was next on my list - sorting out any tank rot issues... The carby tank's will rust the same as any other tanks? The trouble being their shape - any water/condensation will sink to the bottom of the petrol itself, this is at it's lowest point at the back two corners where it will gather in a large puddle??!





Rust never sleeps... it will eat through the base of the tank/tank seams, the first you will know of this will be petrol dripping through your tank?!

The wet patch at the back is water. There was a similar patch on the right, the clamp gubbins in the middle holds the fuel pump/teabag filter & the silver blob at the back-right is the drain bung bolt.

Bought myself one of these kits:

eBay - The UK's Online Marketplace

The infamous POR-15 treatment... all the washing etc will take a few hours, the sealant itself takes FOUR DAYS to dry... seeing as its been peeing down for the last week or two I saw fit to get this out of the way before Summer/I did have any leakage issues...

Run fuel down low. Get out and cane it for an hour or two.

Undo the breather on top, lift the tank, shut off the fuel tap, undo the pipe clamps (7mm socket works best), have some rag handy to catch any errant petrol spillage, there is always some... remove the overflow, feed & return lines & tape the ends up to stop any gak getting in there.



Get somebody to support the tank whilst you remove the pin & pivot from the back of it - hard to do both yourself & dropping it is not an option!

Pop the tank cap & drain the tank by using either the drain bolt or the tap itself? Found it easier using the drain bolt as it then pees straight down into the container rather than having a hectic horizontal beer-pee everywhere.

Rest the tank on something soft - old cushions, blankets or cardboard is good? With the cap up loosen the six retaining allen grubscrews (2mm key, use a GOOD one!) by 3mm, no need to take them out.

Now the fun part. With the tank on the floor between your ankles, hook two fingers in the cap in a g-spot stylee and PULL.

Pull harder! Be prepared for a fight, farting & swearing, they don't come out easy.



Got it? Good. Had mine out before Xmas to remove & bypass the fuel filter (new smaller filter added here on the left externally, also extra handier fuel tap) so didn't give me too much grief?
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post #58 of 82 (permalink) Old May 10th, 2012, 5:45 am
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Disconnect the overflow line inside the tank & remove the cap.

**Sidenote** On further inspection my overflow pipe was blocked, also the metal bend inside the tank??! Must had accumulated crap & debris down it over the years falling down the overflow hole? Cleared out the metal bend with copper wire held in pliers & all good.



Feed pipe is on the right, bends round from the rubber tube on the right, middle is the return pipe, exits at the top front of the tank, righthand is the tank overflow.

Pop the fuel pump out of its clamps... will be a very tight dry fit, may be worth giving it a quick careful squirt with gt-85/wd40 or similar?



Enough wire length to let you take it out without disconnecting the wires - you will need to remove them to remove the fuel sender unit though... take your time as there are small washers & nuts involved...

Remove the fuel tap (14mm spanner?), one of the threads is lefthand so it will unscrew off both threads when undone, retrieve the small plastic or copper washer.

Remove the fuel sender. This nut is a big b*gger & my largest adjustable only just fitted??

Rinse the tank out with water. At this stage before throwing and chemical nastiness inside my tank I saw fit to bag it up to stop any paint marking etc...

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post #59 of 82 (permalink) Old May 10th, 2012, 5:46 am
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Duct-tape off all holes left, pipes etc.

Follow the instructions in the kit.

WEAR GOGGLES/GLOVES & GLASSES.

No shortcuts, no "I cant be bothered with that bit". The kit's end result will depend on you doing a Proper Job.

Add the Marine Clean (heavy duty degreaser/varnish remover) pre-mixed with another litre of hot (not boiling, or all the duct-tape will fall off and you will be in a right state....) water & swish it around, leaving the tank in different positions. When you are happy it has done its job then rinse the tank out with cold water (hosepipe )

Add the "Prep & Ready", this nasty blue stuff will remove if not neutralize any rust and also acid-etch the inside of the tank. Take all the time you like to swish it around, can't be in there any longer than two hours mind?

Here's the tank just before I rinsed it out:





S'better!

Empty the "Prep & Ready" out (Its reusable! Empty it back into the same container & keep it for later.), & rinse the tank out with warm water. With the aid of my understanding partner I took the tank upstairs and jetted it out with the showerhead.

Remove any tape to ensure no trapped water & dry it out with microfibre or similar - paper towel can tear on any rough spots inside, make sure you get it all out!

The tank has to be 101% dry before you add the sealant. Get a hairdryer or hot air gun and give it a good blasting... I got mine so damn dry I nearly burnt myself when I picked it up again.

Retape any pipes & mix the sealant thoroughly. Add the can's contents to the tank, use a paintbrush to do any metalwork inside (pipes, pump holder etc), tape up the inside rim of the filler hole and now tape it shut completely.

Slowly roll the tank around allowing the inside the get completely covered by the sealant - the previous acid etch will ensure it sticks like sh!t to a blanket so no worries...

When you are happy its all been done remove the filler hole tape & drain the excess back into the pot through the drain bolt hole.

No pooling of any sealant is allowed - use the supplied foam brush to mop any up, this will take about 30 minutes so keep an eye on it...

Let tank dry - this will take 96 hours/4 days, more if you aren't sure?

And this is where I am now... had a peek last night & its looking good!
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post #60 of 82 (permalink) Old Jun 27th, 2012, 6:01 pm
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Hi Guys,

This is a second hand tank that I bought as my original was headed for the bin.

I bought the Por 15 pack and used it as follows -

The instructions say to use duck tape or masking tap to block holes. Please don't use either for the larger hole under the tank as I nearly lost 1/4 of the Marine clean. I found a cap from a used water bottle worked a treat.


I then cut a thin piece of plastic to cover the larger opening to see what was happening and also not to spill any product.


Before I spilled out the metal ready I used these brushes to loosen up any rust or Stubborn spots


What the tank looked like after the treatment. It should give a blue hazy colour to the metal whilst the metal ready is doing its stuff.

Use a Hair dryer to completely dry the tank also shake the tank to allow excess water trapped out.

Poured the Final solution in and all is good...

Main tip - Don't use duck tape or masking tape for the large hot under the tank!! find a cap that fits.
Cheers
Joe
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My First!!
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