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Bi-xenon HID projector retrofit for 900SSie

32K views 68 replies 28 participants last post by  Goldwing_WannaB 
#1 · (Edited)
The carby SS guys get harrassed for their square headlights all the time, but the one thing that I don't like about my 2001 900SSie is the headlight (big, heavy, ugly, and not very modern looking). I was previously using an aftermarket HID bulb/ballast kit (with H4 re-based bulb) with the original headlight. Besides the typical problems with using an HID bulb in a headlight that was designed for a halogen bulb, it didn't improve the look of the bike. I love the look of an SSie with race fairings (no headlight), so I decided to retrofit a single bi-xenon HID specific projector headlight and use a race upper fairing from AirTech and custom fit it to the single headlight.

The bi-xenon HID projector headlight retrofit kit is from The Retrofit Source. This is a true aftermarket projector headlight that is purpose built for retrofitting and made specifically for an OEM-type D2S HID bulb with bi-xenon capablility (low and high beam). The "FX-R" projector is modeled after OEM Infiniti FX-45 projectors, but the external shape and four mounting points are more retrofit friendly. The low and high beam visibility from this projector is excellent and the low beam cutoff has an awesome color band that creates that sought after color-flicker when seen from a distance. The kit also comes with an H4 motorcycle relay harness that is virtually plug-n-play and is the perfect length for a direct connection to the battery on the Ducati 900SSie. The complete projector retrofit kit is priced at $150 with shipping.

The kit includes a new aftermarket bi-xenon HID projector, 35w D2S ballast, 35w D2S 5000K bulb, and an H4 motorcycle relay harness.


The relay harness is grounded to the frame near the factory wiring harness main connector.


The relay harness in-line fuse resides next to the factory fuses.


The relay harness is connected directly to the battery.


The ballast is mounted in the empty void of the original headlight utilizing an existing headlight bolt.


Custom mounting brackets for the projector headlight are fabricated from 1/8" thick aluminum sheet.



The mounting brackets are attached to the projector headlight.


 
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#3 · (Edited)
Continued...

Low beam pattern (notice the color band at the cutoff).


High beam pattern.


Low beam visibility.


High beam visibility.


The AirTech upper fairing hasn't arrived yet, but I will post photos of the completed installation once i cut out a hole for the headlight and get it back from the painter. :)
 
#6 ·
Everything fits within the space left behind by the original headlight, however there will be a large opening around the projector headlight that you can either ignore or fabricate some type of filler plate to cover the opening.

 
#7 ·
Chuck,

Nice job on the headlight, but I think you'll find a problem when you cut the small hole in the race upper fairing - the design proportions won't be correct: too much bodywork for so small an opening. I think MV is the only bike who has handled this detail properly so far.
 
#10 ·
I think you'll find a problem when you cut the small hole in the race upper fairing - the design proportions won't be correct: too much bodywork for so small an opening. I think MV is the only bike who has handled this detail properly so far.
I'm not sure what you mean here... do you mean that it will be difficult to cut the hole in the fairing, or that it won't look good appearance-wise because of shape of the fairing?

I realize that a single round headlight in the middle won't appeal to everyone, but i personally don't like the look of the factory headlight. I tried several placement options using photoshop (twin side-by-side, single offset to one side or the other, etc.) and the single light in the middle appealed to me the most. I'd love to run without a headlight at all for the sake of appearance, but that's obviously not legal. :)
 
#8 ·
Thanks for the front shot photo! I love this setup. Maybe there's a way to cut the lens part off of the old light and stick it back where it belongs or have someone fab the exact shape in red/black plastic with the whole cutout. Gonna have to think about what to do. :think:
 
#9 ·
I am obsessed with getting better lighting, so this is really interesting and they do right hand drive versions as well.

I would like to find a spare headlamp shell/glass and mount a pair behind the stock "glass" - just need to find a headlamp assembly then work out how to mount what Chuck has done into the shell AND be able to adjust them as well.
Mounting should not be hard, but adjusting might need some creativity.

Looks like the kit runs direct off the battery and plugs into the harness H4 connector so voltage drop should not be an issue.

If I do it though I will check my headlight after stopping - I did an HID setup for a CBR250RR I owned for a while and the relay fused closed, I guess due to the initial inrush current to the ballast. My daughter borrowed the bike for a while and did not notice the headlamp stayed on and flattened the battery, resulting in a call out to me !!!!!!!!!! I did not know there was a 24 hour callout service on borrowed bikes.
 
#14 ·
This is exactly what i had to do after riding it for an extended amount of time last night. I used 2mm worth of washers on each of the bottom mounts to raise the beam up slightly to adjust for my weight on the bike while going down the road. It's a little more trial and error than the factory adjustment screws, but once you've got it set then it's not a problem.
 
#12 ·
I am interested in this...

Can I make it work on either the Monster or the Multi 1200 or both?

I'm more interested in daytime visibility. Night-time use is rare for me, but is nice to have.
 
#16 ·
The projector that i purchased is a raw casting and in my opinion isn't really nice looking enough for an exposed installation on a Monster unless you plan to either use the original headlight housing or fabricate a new custom housing. Anything is possible though. TRS also sells smaller non bi-xenon projectors that may work better in other custom installations.
 
#18 ·
For the gents that want to use separate hi-lo beams, look at amazon.com and search for "90mm hella".

I put these lights in my ST2, and now my ST4s. Huge improvement over the stock headlight.
 
#19 ·
Thanks for sharing your solution with the rest of us. Your work has provided me with an excellent solution to my own needs:

I have an 800SS that I use primarily as a track bike. I have a Triumph Sprint RS as my road bike. On occasion, I need a second road bike when my brother comes to visit from across the country and we want to ride. I have a set of track fairings on the bike, but I am planning on purchasing an Airtech one-piece half fairing for the road. I have a race fairing stay, rather than the stock one, and I plan on fabbing bracketry to mount your light set up to and belowthe cross member of the stay. Should be an easy job. I'll buy a set of aftermarket mirrors with turn signals built in, and I should be good to go.

Aesthetic? Meh. Functional and easy to switch between track and street? Absolutely.

Kurt
 

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#21 ·
The racing upper fairing arrived yesterday, so i started the mock-up process last night and have some photos to share...

Here is the upper fairing mounted and also with the hole cut for the projector.




The projector's glass lens slightly protrudes out past the upper fairing. This should keep the light's side output to a maximum.


I still have to finish drilling all the necessary holes for the lower fairing mounts and the windscreen as well as making sure everything lines up properly and doing a little prep work to the upper fairing before sending it to my painter. I'm also planning to build a rubber gasket made from a 3" rubber pipe coupler that will seal the projector to the angled opening in the fairing.

Stay tuned... :abduct:
 
#23 · (Edited)
The only heat that i can detect after a ride is the glass lens itself. The projector housing doesn't seem to retain too much heat. I've been using a version of this rubber gasket to attach a temporary filler plate directly to the projector to cover up the brackets while waiting on the new fairing to come in and i haven't had any problems. I'm using a 3" pipe coupler that is meant for automotive use (see photo below) so i suspect it's meant to take some under-hood heat.

 
#27 · (Edited)
I made a projector to fairing gasket tonight using a 3" rubber intake pipe coupler.



I cut the coupler at an angle to match the fairing, and a 2.75" to 3" spacer was also made from the coupler.


The gasket and spacer are mounted to the projector housing with a stainless steel hose clamp.


The gasket provides a seal to inside of the fairing for a clean and finished appearance.


 
#29 ·
Great post

Chuck
top marks mate- i reckon you've done a/ a great job on the mod (it'll look even better when the fairings painted- personally I'd go with a white field and racing number- you wouldn't hardly see the headlight
and b/ the write up you've done here

I've been thinking about something similar and with what you've done here don't have to think any more- apart perhaps from going for twin set up.

Top marks mate
 
#31 ·
I finally got the stock lower fairings and the windscreen fitted to the new fiberglass upper fairing. AirTech makes a quality product, but it still took a lot of effort to get everything to line up and fit properly. I think the hardest part of this whole retrofit project was drilling the holes for the windsceen and ensuring that it was positioned properly. Even with the amount of trimming, sanding, and filing that i did, everything still doesn't line up or fit "perfect", but for $130 USD i guess i can't complain. I'll be bringing the upper fairing to the body shop this week to have it painted gloss black. I'll post pics when i get it back and put everything back together.







 
#33 ·
How good does that look! This is definitely going onto my to-do list.
Just out of interest why go whole hog with a new top fairing- why not loo to plastic weld/ otherwise fill the gap in the original?
 
#34 ·
Just out of interest why go whole hog with a new top fairing- why not loo to plastic weld/ otherwise fill the gap in the original?
I wanted to keep the original upper fairing intact in case the project didn't work out, and to easily return it to the stock setup for whatever reason if necessary.

I rarely ride at night, but i've been specifically riding after dark over the last few days just so i can enjoy the incredible light output. It really is amazing. :cool:
 
#35 ·
Headlight mod...

Congrats Chuck!!! Man!!! can't wait to see the whole bike in black!!! Please, post pics as soon as you can once you paint the front fairing!!! I can't wait to see it all black!!! Once again, congrats Chuck!! Excellent mod and documentation!!

Best Regards,

Vickon:abduct:
 
#38 ·
counter weight

Hello,

This maybe a stupid question but what is the use of the counter weight ?
I can understand that you want a counter weight when you mount the light off center but since you mounted the light in the middle of your fairing do you still need it ?

probably I am missing something simple here. :confused:

EDIT
Sorry forgot to say that I really like what you done with the bike and I am thinking about maybe do the same thing on my DB2.
could you tell me how much the whole light install weights ? (relay and projector and fuse box and counter weight )
 
#39 ·
Hello,

This maybe a stupid question but what is the use of the counter weight ?
I can understand that you want a counter weight when you mount the light off center but since you mounted the light in the middle of your fairing do you still need it ?

could you tell me how much the whole light install weights ? (relay and projector and fuse box and counter weight )
Are you refering to the ballast as the counter weight? The ballast is the required power source for the HID bulb and is included with the kit.

I planned on weighting everything before installing it for comparison, but i was so concerned about takings photos that i forgot. :eek:

Thank you to everyone for all the positive comments! I'm excited to get it painted and reinstalled, and i will definitely post photos of the finished product here as soon as i can. :)
 
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