I thought I would do a "how to" on installing a carbon fiber cockpit gauge bezel, should anyone be interested.
Time involved: Approx. 1 hour.
Cost of bezel (at time of writing) $34.99.
Skill level: Average.
4mm Allen wrench
5mm Allen wrench
A piece of cord, string, or rope.
1-2 bottles of Yuengling Light, or other comparable refrigerated beverage.
Section 1. BODYWORK
Remove the right side fairing assembly, by removing the two bottom dzus fasteners, found on the underside of the motorcycle. If you do not know how to do this, then perhaps working on a Ducati is beyond your mechanical abilities, so stop, and seek a professional technician.
Remove the four dzus clips located on the top of the fairing, clipping the fairing to the frame.
Repeat the process in the other side, by removing the four dzus fasteners from the upper section of the fairing. If working on the ground, you will need to right the bike onto it's tires, drawing the sides and up. Then, pull the fairing off the sidestand, return the sidestand to the downward position, and set the bike on it.
Remove the mirror screw, using a 4mm allen head wrench. Once removed, the mirror pulls straight off. Repeat the process on the other side. Place the gasket and the screw back into the mirror, so as not to lose them during the process.
Remove the two 4mm bolts holding the front fairing to the headlight bucket. There will be one on each side.
Section 2: HEADLIGHT REMOVAL
Remove the 5mm Allen head wrench in the hole in the center of the headlight assembly. Make sure that when you do, you count the number of turns necessary for removal. This will prove important in the installation process.
Move the headlight assembly forward on the bottom, to recover the spring that is located behind the lens.
Press the headlight assembly forward, allowing the rubber stay grommets through the slots.
The headlight assembly will be free, at this point.
Step 4: If you do not unplug the headlights, be sure to secure the assembly with cord. I used a piece of elastic rope wrapped around the headlight assembly and fairing stays. DO NOT ALLOW THE HEADLIGHT ASSEMBLY TO HANG BY IT'S WIRES.
SECTION 3: GAUGES
Step 1: cockpit removal.
Unplug the three primary harnesses, by gently pulling the locking tabs up, while pulling the harnesses apart. Take care to ONLY pull the tab up enough to clear the locking tang, and NEVER pull the harness by the wires, only the block harness. There is no need to label these harnesses, as they cannot be reinstalled incorrectly.
Step 2: Horn removal.
Unplug the two wires going into the horn, indicated with green circles. They will have a green and purple wire.
Remove the 8mm nut that is holding the horn on, and remove the horn. (Note: Complete horn removal is not necessary, but does make the process easier.)
Remove the three nuts holding the cockpit to the headlight bucket. Their locations are indicated in the photographs.
SECTION 4: COCKPIT DISASSEMBLY
Remove the two light bulbs from the tachometer, indicated here. DO NOT PULL FROM THE WIRES.
(Note: The dummy lights are also circled, as I had disassembled the entire dash, for another project. This process is NOT necessary for this particular project.)
Remove the tachometer outward, routing the wires through the appropriate holes in the back of the cockpit assembly.
Remove the signal harness from the tachometer. It simply pulls outward.
Step 3: Remove the two 8mm nuts, holding the tachometer into the cockpit.
Step 4: remove the bulb from the coolant temperature sensor, located on the bottom of the unit.
Step 5: Disconnet the three signal wires from the coolant gauge, pulling them outward, and making note of where each one went. (I taped the three together, to make the process fool-proof.)
Remove the one 8mm nut holding on the coolant temperature gauge, and remove the gauge from the cockpit.
SECTION 5: BEZEL INSTALLATION
Step 1: Bezel install
Once you have the cockpit stripped of the coolant and tachometer gauges, you are prepared to install the bezel. First, dry fit each gauge into the bezel, to assure they clear the bezel. If not, you will need to open the holes up slightly, with a piece of sandpaper. My bezel came from Bestem, and everything fit perfectly.
Then, apply the two-sided tape to the inside edge of the bezel. Honestly, this is not a requirement, as the gauges themselves will hold the bezel into place.
When installing the tape, find the absolute true bottom of the bezel, and start/stop the tape here, leaving at least a 1/2" gap between the edges, to allow for any moisture drainoff.
Then, press the bezel into place, securing it tp the foam.
Step 2: Gauge installation:
Press the gauges into place, and install the nuts, making sure to index the gauges properly. Indexing is not entirely necessary, as these gauges will not install crooked, but there is a little rotational adjustment... and since I am a perfectionist (and such little things bug the crap out of me!), I take the minute or so to actually align the gauges with each other.
Reinstalltion of the gauges is simply the reverse of removal. Note: Now is a perfect opportunity to replace any burned out bulbs you may have. Reinstall the harnesses, and plug the light bulbs into their corresponding locations.
Install the gauge cockpit back into the headlight bucket, assuring that all three studs go into their respective holes. Once confirmed, install the three nuts. Be sure not to overtighten, as the studs are easily broken. They are barely finger tight, on mine.
Plug in the three block harnesses, and turn the key on to confirm illumination operation. Start the motorcycle to confirm function of the tachometer, as well. Make note to check that the oil light illuminates properly, and turns off properly. It is your one and only indication that your oiling system is failing.... pretty important stuff.
SECTION 6: HEADLIGHT INSTALLATION
Step 1: Headlight installation
Reinstall the headlight assembly by removing the suspension cord, pressing the rubber grommets into the corresponding slots in the headlight bucket. Reaching from below, install the spring behind the adjuster hole, then insert the screw into the hole.
Step 2: Headlight adjustment.
Install the adjuster screw, using the 5mm Allen wrench. Remember when we counted the number of rotations for removal? Reinstall this screw by tightening it with the same number of turns. This will assure that your headlights are restored to the proper alignment height that they were sitting before the build began.
SECTION 7: BODYWORK INSTALLATION
Installation is the reverse of removal. One note... make sure the mating edges of the front nose fairing clears the plastic nubs of the air runners. Also, you will want to check function of the turn signals, as this process might have unplugged one if the bullet connectors holding the wires together.
Wipe off any fingerprints, and enjoy a delicious, tasty beverage. When you install these bezels, you begin to understand why gauge removal us necessary. The manufacturer could have made them to go around the gauge surrounds, but the installation would not be very secure, and the result would not be very clean. It may take a little effort, but is well worth the time invested.
(Pictured, is the one I did on my yellow 748.)
Haha.... true, but a lot of people have reviewed these things, and wondered why it was necessary to remove the entire front end and gauge assembly, to install the bezel. Unfortunately, the bezel didn't come with any instructions, and several reviewers thought the bezel holes were "cut too small by mistake," and Dremelled the openings up to clear the gauges. 🤦‍♂️
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