SSSA Chain Adjustment Eccentric Question - Ducati.ms - The Ultimate Ducati Forum
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old Nov 30th, 2018, 2:20 pm Thread Starter
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SSSA Chain Adjustment Eccentric Question

I recently bought an '06 S2R1000, and I'm in the process of bringing it's maintenance up to date. I finished up valves and belts, and I'll be working on TPS/TB adjustments over the weekend.

The chain was pretty loose when I got it, so I had to buy the special tool to turn the eccentric. So now I'm all tooled up, and I took a shot at adjusting the chain last night. Here comes my question. My chain adjuster eccentric only rotates about 1/8 of a turn before it seems to hit a stop both directions. This isn't enough to take up the slack and get my chain into proper adjustment. Do I need to lose a link, or should my eccentric turn farther? Looking at the service manual, I don't see a reason why the eccentric wouldn't turn 360 degrees. Also, the manual states chain slack should be 22-27mm (I think) but the sticker on the swing arm says 32-36mm. Which is correct?

2006 ST3s ABS, 1991 Suzuki GSX-R750
2000 Yamaha WR400, 2003 Honda TRX300ex
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old Nov 30th, 2018, 3:20 pm
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I tend to run my chain with about 30-35mm total slack. Better a little loose than too tight.

I believe the eccentric should rotate all the way around. I pulled mine apart one time (a long time ago) to clean and lube and I don’t remember any limit on the rotation. But my memory being what it is I wouldn’t swear to it.


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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old Dec 1st, 2018, 9:32 am
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I just switched out my front sprocket on my Multi and had to adjust the chain. While the eccentric doesn't rotate too easily, I could rotate all the way around. So, I'm guessing that your eccentric is just suffering from debris, corrosion, or lack of lubrication (not that its supposed to be lubricated). Maybe its time to pull the eccentric from the arm and give it a cleaning?

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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old Dec 1st, 2018, 9:43 am
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I noticed on mine that you have to back off the nut, not just break it loose, to get the eccentric to move easily.

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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old Dec 1st, 2018, 9:54 am
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You should not have to loosen the big center nut to rotate the eccentric. Just the two pinch bolts.




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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old Dec 1st, 2018, 4:37 pm Thread Starter
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Thanks for the input, fellas. Turns out, I had a combination of problems. At some point in the past, someone had used a punch or screwdriver to adjust the chain. This buggered some of the notches in the eccentric, and those were dragging and catching on the swingarm. I WD-40ed the eccentric and worked it back and forth and was able to get more travel out of the adjuster. Unfortunately, the movement was only in the loosening direction.

So I bit the bullet and bought a 41mm socket ($35) and took the whole works apart. It was surprisingly clean and in good shape, other than the damaged adjuster notches. I filed those smooth and put it partially together. What I found is that there's a slot in the brake caliper bracket that rides on a pin in the swingarm. The slot isn't long enough to allow complete rotation of the eccentric. This is what was giving me trouble. Looks like I'll need to lose a link or two in my chain. I've got a new master link on order, so I'll have this solved in a week or so.

I was able to finish tuning the injection. Starts right up and idles nicely. It's cold and rainy here, so I wasn't able to take it for a test ride, but I think I'm really close. Now I just need the weather to break...

In the meantime, here are a couple of pics:
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old Dec 1st, 2018, 4:46 pm
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SSSA Chain Adjustment Eccentric Question

Cool. Glad you got that figgered out. Beautiful bike. Now be aware that rotating it between the 4:00 and 8:00 range changes the rear ride height as opposed to the 10:00 to 2:00 range. The normal setting is in the 4-8 o’clock range which gives the highest ride height.


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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old Dec 1st, 2018, 6:06 pm
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makes sure you check the tension with it loaded to make sure it's not too tight. the m1100 for instance has 60 - 65mm slack recommendation on the side stand, which sounds like a huge amount, but it uses it all up when you sit on it. i always check them sitting on the bike with the bike on a rear axle stand. or even lay across the seat and pull the rear down on the stand to see how much tighter it gets through the travel. some models are surprising.

some models have the eccentric at the top half too, don't recall which now. maybe the mts1000? 916 would often rub the wheel on the mufflers if the eccentric was at the top, and on the early ones you could go full rotation before they shortened the rear brake caliper plate slot. they shortened the slot so you couldn't rotate it all the way around, to stop people inadvertantly putting it in the wrong place.

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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old Dec 2nd, 2018, 8:51 am Thread Starter
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Thanks for the input, fellas. Good information. I think I'd read about setting the eccentric with max ride height in the service manual, but it could easily have slipped my mind by the time I get around to actually buttoning everything up.

The bike has ~14,400 miles on it, and the chain and sprockets appear to be in good shape. In my experience, these should be reaching the end of their useful lifespans about now, so maybe they've been replaced? The PO didn't mention it, and it didn't show up in the local dealer's records.

What's a mystery to me is how I ended up with an overly long chain in the first place. When I brought the bike home, the chain was dragging on the catalytic converter, and even with the adjuster extended all the way, I got >65mm of slack. I can't imagine a chain stretching that much.

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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old Dec 2nd, 2018, 9:55 am
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It’s not unusual for the chain and sprockets to last that long, given a little care.

Did the previous owner maybe put smaller sprockets in it?


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