Worn Sprocket washer and output shaft - Page 3 - Ducati.ms - The Ultimate Ducati Forum
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post #21 of 41 (permalink) Old Jun 9th, 2017, 9:52 pm
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Originally Posted by bchatt View Post
Here are a couple of pics. Please bear in mind I fashioned this solution by hand , in a hurry because I wanted to go for a ride (as always!). You can see the new black OEM keeper plate against the sprocket, then 3 washers which space my additional plate to just flush with the end of the countershaft. The most important bit is not visible - the central boss which allows tightening the M8 bolt, while allowing the sprocket to move around - rotational slop as Bryanc123 puts it, is not impeded or transferred to the additional keeper plate. It seems to be working fine. I needed to put a washer under each of the 2 plastic cover boltholes to prevent the M8 bolt head wearing on the inside of the cover.
And, no Tonered, I didn't put longer retainer bolts in, but I looked long and hard at the originals and I sure would have put some longer ones in if I'd had some, but, well, you know, the twisty roads were calling me
Since my link reference probably was confusing, here is the article. By the way, bchatt, your solution looks like Desmo_Demon's first solution, that didn't hold up for long. Keep an eye on it.

See the copy of magazine article written (page 19) by him detailing the whole idea of using a sprocket to work around a buggered up countershaft spline.
http://www.usdesmo.com/leanings/Lean...1_1_Spring.pdf
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post #22 of 41 (permalink) Old Aug 16th, 2017, 10:35 am Thread Starter
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Long time no post, here's an update:
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Originally Posted by tonered View Post
That is a good start, but without spacers in there, the retainer bolts cannot be properly torqued and could work their way out even with thread lock. Also, you did get longer retainer bolts. Right?

I'm just throwing that out there because you are getting off easy with a small mod. It would be crappy to have it lead to crankcase, swing arm, or clutch damage down the road if the retainer bolts fall out.

There is already the possibility of the bolt in the shaft working loose (it ain't gonna get tighter!).
Funny you should mention that... That's exactly what happened. Fortunately, there was no long term damage, just some more scuffs on an already damaged clutch slave. SO, I got Dad the measurements he needed and he came up with this:


With a couple of longer bolts and lock washers, it looked like this:


The stock lock washer is still in place but being held against the outside of the grove where the metal has not been chewed away. I'm not running the chain guard at the moment as the extra bolts and plate stick out a bit further than stock. I just need to space the guard out a bit and can put it back on.

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post #23 of 41 (permalink) Old Aug 16th, 2017, 11:00 am
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Originally Posted by tonered View Post
. The 2004+ STs have the more standard, high torque nut to lock down the sprocket laterally.
Just a note that the '04 ST4s has this retaining adapter too. Don't know about '05 and up....

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post #24 of 41 (permalink) Old Aug 16th, 2017, 1:35 pm
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Very interesting solution!

I wonder if it could be made thinner to fit under the cover. It's not an overly stressed item. A thin metal lock ring does the trick on 99.9% of the many thousands of Ducs on the road using this method of securing the sprocket. Maybe it could be made thinner and be as strong, or even stronger, if it were made of steel and then hardened.

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post #25 of 41 (permalink) Old Aug 17th, 2017, 5:23 pm Thread Starter
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I would think that it could certainly be made thinner. Dad made it a little thick to be on the cautious side, I think. Also I chose Aluminum vs. Steel, so a steel cap could be thinner still.

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post #26 of 41 (permalink) Old Aug 17th, 2017, 7:56 pm
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It still seems like the center button head bolt on the shaft will loosen over time. The outer bolts attach the sprocket, but the sprocket will move from one side of the shaft spline on acceleration, to the other side of the spline on deceleration. I doubt the button head bolt will deal with 100 ft/lbs in each direction a few thousandths at each change in direction.

Maybe I'm looking at it wrong?

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post #27 of 41 (permalink) Old Aug 17th, 2017, 8:24 pm
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I got it! Just weld that sucker on there!

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post #28 of 41 (permalink) Old Aug 20th, 2017, 7:29 am
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I got it! Just weld that sucker on there!
Sadly as a kid i bought a Hodaka wombat 125 that someone had welded the front sprocket and the flywheel on. It was fun until it needed points and the sprocket wore so there was no teeth.
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post #29 of 41 (permalink) Old Aug 20th, 2017, 8:38 am
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Sadly as a kid i bought a Hodaka wombat 125 that someone had welded the front sprocket and the flywheel on. It was fun until it needed points and the sprocket wore so there was no teeth.
LOL! Never owned a Hodaka, but I did have a Bultaco as a teen. Now that I am thinking about it, I wish I had welded the flywheel to the crank! My Father was a welder and we had all the stuff in the shop. Kept busting Woodruff keys on the flywheel, that was also the primary drive connecting the crank to the transmission. Pretty much left you stranded. Haven't thought of that in a couple decades! Thanks for the memory... Is it too early to have a beer?

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post #30 of 41 (permalink) Old Aug 21st, 2017, 9:27 pm
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I've got a 70 bultaco matador in the barn... and 5 Montesa's too. key with fly wheels is clean the taper and the bore add adab of valve lapping compound and lap the two then clean clean clean. warm flywheel with a halogen light and install while hot.

funny i'd forgotten about using a drummel bit to recut the teeth on the sprocket untill it go so small i couldn't use the same number of teeth.. Oh the joys of being young and broke.
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