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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 13th, 2013, 9:08 pm Thread Starter
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Question , Information on the Regulator Rectifier is needed

I have a 1998 Ducati ST2, Information on the Regulator Rectifier is needed.

Does anyone here have a 1998 Ducati St 2 and if they do, have you had to change the regulator Rectifier?

If yes how often do you change it?

I have had to change the Regulator rectifier on my Duc after just 18 months, and would like to know if they should last longer than that, if not can something be done about that?

What is causing the RR to melt/break down so often?

Any help is appreciated Thanks
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 15th, 2013, 10:11 pm
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Hi Dave, post this in the Sport Touring section.

Craig

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 16th, 2013, 12:26 pm
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Had one shit itself on a 93SS 900-and have heard a few stories about the stock regs on the Sport Classics-apparently changing to a MOSFET unit is the best way to go-you would need to do a search on this topic in the ST forum
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 16th, 2013, 12:57 pm
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Regulator/Rectifier Failures

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ducati Dave View Post

I have had to change the Regulator rectifier on my Duc after just 18 months, and would like to know if they should last longer than that, if not can something be done about that?

What is causing the RR to melt/break down so often?
The main reason why a regulator/rectifier (RR) fails is from overheating. Modern full fairing bikes donít provide an adequate supply of cooling air in slow traffic and at stops. Relocating the stock RR to a cooler location on the bike is the best solution. Further, a MOSFET replacement unit will run cooler than the OEM unit because of the nature of its design.

The second reason for failures is that the charging system sends a high current through the stator-to-RR wiring connector that corrodes over time and gets overheated. The attached wiring also gets heated up at the connector which damages its insulation that in turn allows the stator wires to short together at higher voltages created at higher engine speeds. Shorting these wires together will damage the RR causing it to fail internally. Replacing the wiring all the way back to the engine casing (not just the visually damaged sections) and eliminating the connector by soldering the wires from the stator directly to the RR solves the problem. Replacing a RR without attending to the wiring issue will result in a second premature failure.

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 16th, 2013, 7:52 pm Thread Starter
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Hi Dave, post this in the Sport Touring section.

Craig
Thanks Craig, will try putting it there to see what we can come up with. Cheers
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 16th, 2013, 8:24 pm Thread Starter
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Information on the Regulator Rectifier is needed

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Originally Posted by Shazaam View Post
The main reason why a regulator/rectifier (RR) fails is from overheating. Modern full fairing bikes donít provide an adequate supply of cooling air in slow traffic and at stops. Relocating the stock RR to a cooler location on the bike is the best solution. Further, a MOSFET replacement unit will run cooler than the OEM unit because of the nature of its design.

The second reason for failures is that the charging system sends a high current through the stator-to-RR wiring connector that corrodes over time and gets overheated. The attached wiring also gets heated up at the connector which damages its insulation that in turn allows the stator wires to short together at higher voltages created at higher engine speeds. Shorting these wires together will damage the RR causing it to fail internally. Replacing the wiring all the way back to the engine casing (not just the visually damaged sections) and eliminating the connector by soldering the wires from the stator directly to the RR solves the problem. Replacing a RR without attending to the wiring issue will result in a second premature failure.
Thank you very much for this information..
As I have just purchased a new oem rr I will have to fit it and then try look for the mosfet to fit, if anyone has a link to find a new mosfet I would very much appreciate it.

Where is the best place to put the rr instead of underneath the headlight then? Any advice would be appreciated?
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 16th, 2013, 8:27 pm
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Quote:
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Where is the best place to put the rr instead of underneath the headlight then? Any advice would be appreciated?
This is where I put mine.


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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 18th, 2013, 7:41 pm Thread Starter
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This is where I put mine.

Thank you, very interesting, how much extra cable was requred to do that?
It appears that is not the rr50?

My new RR50 has just shown up and will be fitted tomorrow, any chance you could tell me the make and model and where to get one of those nice looking rr with fins?

And does the dirt or water have any influence on the RR when you set it at the rear near the mud gaurd?

Cheers
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 19th, 2013, 8:26 am
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It's the RR51 model. The construction is waterproof. The fins obviously help with cooling.

http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acata...ti-RR-Info.pdf

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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 26th, 2013, 3:15 am
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Hi Dave, I might be a bit late with this but have a read of this article I wrote.

I have installed MOSFET units on both 748 and 1098. Both are going strong. They really are the way to go.

https://www.ducati.ms/forums/80-hall-...-problems.html
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