Need some help on 996 electrical troubleshooting. - Ducati.ms - The Ultimate Ducati Forum
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old Aug 2nd, 2019, 2:22 pm Thread Starter
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Need some help on 996 electrical troubleshooting.

My eyes have gone googly from all the googling I have been doing. Read so much info over the past 2 days that I'm starting to tie myself in knots. Time for some focused questions.

Symptoms:

- Slow starter motor when starter button first pushed (aren't they all?)
- Battery needs to be on a tender or it doesn't hold a charge.


Troubleshooting to date:

- Voltage across the terminal at idle in the 12.3V to 12.4V range.
- Voltage across the terminals tops out at around 12.6V no matter how high the revs.

- I have removed the battery and the stator, and have inspected the 3 yellow stator wires at the plug connector. Connector is definitely not bright white and shiny, but it is not burnt up and the wire connectors look in good shape.

- Multimeter set to Diode reads 001 across any combo of the 3 wires.
- Multimeter set to 200 ohms reads 1.1, but the 2 test leads touched to each other read 0.9, so the real reading would be 0.2.

Next I need to measure the voltage from the stator wires with the bike running. I will also post the R/R numbers in my next post.

Do the number above seem OK so far?


Dave.

Last edited by davenay67; Aug 2nd, 2019 at 2:47 pm.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old Aug 2nd, 2019, 2:46 pm Thread Starter
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Part 2 - R/R testing number.

Next up was the R/R pint testing using the multimeter set to diode mode.

My 996 has a 4 pin block in addition to the 3 pin stator wire block. 2 of the 4 wires appear to be +ve and the other 2 appear to be -ve. I tested both sets of +ve and -ve pins against each of the 3 stator wire pins.


Using the +ve lead on the MM

+ve pin 1 - 0, 0, 0 across the 3 stator pins

+ve pin 2 - 0, 0, 0

-ve pin 1 - 529, 511, 528 across the 3 stator pins

-ve pin 2 - 528, 509, 527


Using the -ve lead on the MM

+ve pin 1 - 528, 527, 526 across the 3 stator pins

+ve pin 2 - 528, 527, 525

-ve pin 1 - 0, 0, 757 across the 3 stator pins

-ve pin 2 - 0, 0, 757


Those high values in the final 2 tests seem to indicate a faulty R/R. Would you consider this just cause to buy a new R/R unit? What else should I be testing?


Dave.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old Aug 2nd, 2019, 4:41 pm
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i've never tested a reg like that, i don't know that it's a valid test.

follow this procedure step by step.

Brad The Bike Boy: Charging system diagnosis procedure

know all wanker
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old Aug 2nd, 2019, 6:43 pm Thread Starter
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I took the test straight from Jack @ Roadstercycle.


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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old Aug 2nd, 2019, 11:16 pm
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Originally Posted by davenay67 View Post

Those high values in the final 2 tests seem to indicate a faulty R/R. Would you consider this just cause to buy a new R/R unit? What else should I be testing?


Dave.
I buy another R/R. Personally, I'd get a MOSFET regulator and be done with it. I'd be willing to bet you never have another R/R issue for time you own the bike.....sean
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old Aug 3rd, 2019, 7:13 am
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Your reg/rec may well be the issue but these simple steps can make a big difference with minimal effort and cost (if you haven't done them already):
1. Undo, properly clean up and grease the earth/ground connection on the top of the gear box.
2. Likewise the connections to the solenoid and starter motor.
3. Replace the battery and starter leads with real electrical cable, instead of the stock coloured pieces on non-conductive string. You can buy a kit for not much, have some made or make your own using good quality cables.
I have had my 12:4/1 comp 998 for 13 years (2nd battery) and my 2008 HM for 4 years (original battery) and they both start when asked.

HM1100S, 998Bip
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old Aug 3rd, 2019, 8:26 am Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Iwannaduc View Post
I buy another R/R. Personally, I'd get a MOSFET regulator and be done with it. I'd be willing to bet you never have another R/R issue for time you own the bike.....sean
Sean!

Some cross-forum pollination taking place. I'm sure I'll bump into Ducatiman at some point soon.

As far as a MOSFET R/R, any idea of how the Shindengen brand compares to the one that Ricks Motorpsorts sell. The Rick Motorsports version looks like it keeps the stock connector blocks (if the picture on their website is accurate), where the Shindengen model needs some wiring mods from the R/R to the battery.


Dave.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old Aug 3rd, 2019, 8:30 am Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spinoli1 View Post
Your reg/rec may well be the issue but these simple steps can make a big difference with minimal effort and cost (if you haven't done them already):
1. Undo, properly clean up and grease the earth/ground connection on the top of the gear box.
2. Likewise the connections to the solenoid and starter motor.
3. Replace the battery and starter leads with real electrical cable, instead of the stock coloured pieces on non-conductive string. You can buy a kit for not much, have some made or make your own using good quality cables.
I have had my 12:4/1 comp 998 for 13 years (2nd battery) and my 2008 HM for 4 years (original battery) and they both start when asked.
Thanks for the list. I am going to do all of these once I can identify and resolve my main issue. I see the wiring kits have 3 wires, which wires on the bike do they replace? I ask because I count 5 wires around the battery on my bike; 2 from the -ve terminal, 2 from the +ve terminal, and 1 from the solenoid to the starter motor.


Dave.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old Aug 3rd, 2019, 7:38 pm
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the kits go battery pos to solenoid, solenoid to starter and engine case earth to battery neg.

well worth doing. well worth sorting any charging issues too. go through the list i posted. don't just replace the reg.

know all wanker
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old Aug 7th, 2019, 11:09 am Thread Starter
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UPDATE:

Tests on the battery prove it to be alive. 12.6 volts at rest. Never falls below 10v when cranking.

Stator passes all tests. Resistance all all 3 wires. No open grounds. Plenty of voltage at idle and when revved.

Regulator Rectifier unit fails some of the diode tests, a replacement is required. I a going to fit an FH020 MOSFET unit and keep an eye on my charging system.



Bike is still slow cranking. Cleaned all of the wire connections (engine ground, battery -ve, starter post, solenoid, battery +ve). Most were in decent condition and barely noticeable improvement in cranking after the cleaning.

I'm going to do the wiring mod to replace the 3 wires with heavier duty cables. I may even splurge on a MotoBatt heavy duty battery with some serious CCA ability.
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