Ducati Dry Clutch / Clutch Lever Issue - Ducati.ms - The Ultimate Ducati Forum
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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old May 6th, 2019, 11:04 am Thread Starter
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Question Ducati Dry Clutch / Clutch Lever Issue

Hi guys.
I have a 98í Ducati ST2, and I just replaced the entire clutch assembly, pressure plate, springs, etc. I have replaced it before with no problem, but Iím running into an issue I canít seem to find the solution to:

I pulled everything out, followed my Ducati mechanical manual very carefully, and re-installed my new clutch kit (HDESA + Barnett). Obviously my clutch lever is loose when the push rod is out. However, when I put the push rod back through the middle, tightened down the springs to required spec, the clutch lever feels like itís not actually engaging with the push rod. I thought that maybe I had to bleed my clutch cable, but fluid was good, and no air was in the cable.

I copied everything verbatim when pulling out old clutch parts and reinstalling new parts. Followed my manual, but wondering if there is something apparent that Iím missing here.

Any diagnosis I should consider? Push rod looks great, itís nice and straight, o-rings are new, Iím at a loss.

Thanks!
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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old May 6th, 2019, 11:15 am
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Originally Posted by Thecrocodile View Post
Hi guys.
I have a 98í Ducati ST2, and I just replaced the entire clutch assembly, pressure plate, springs, etc. I have replaced it before with no problem, but Iím running into an issue I canít seem to find the solution to:

I pulled everything out, followed my Ducati mechanical manual very carefully, and re-installed my new clutch kit (HDESA + Barnett). Obviously my clutch lever is loose when the push rod is out. However, when I put the push rod back through the middle, tightened down the springs to required spec, the clutch lever feels like itís not actually engaging with the push rod. I thought that maybe I had to bleed my clutch cable, but fluid was good, and no air was in the cable.

I copied everything verbatim when pulling out old clutch parts and reinstalling new parts. Followed my manual, but wondering if there is something apparent that Iím missing here.

Any diagnosis I should consider? Push rod looks great, itís nice and straight, o-rings are new, Iím at a loss.

Thanks!
Have you replaced your original slave cylinder with a newer one at some point?
I ask because newer slave cylinders iirc, come with a short push-rod extension to enable them to work with older push-rods. If you had one fitted and mislaid it or didn't put it back, you would expect to get the symptoms you are describing.
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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old May 6th, 2019, 1:17 pm Thread Starter
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Have you replaced your original slave cylinder with a newer one at some point?
I ask because newer slave cylinders iirc, come with a short push-rod extension to enable them to work with older push-rods. If you had one fitted and mislaid it or didn't put it back, you would expect to get the symptoms you are describing.
Hey Old Rider. I haven't replaced the original slave cylinder with a newer one and I am using the same push rod. But it does feel like the push rod is too short or something. I am guessing that's got to be something I need to look at when I'm back in my garage today. Might need to get a new slave cylinder?
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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old May 7th, 2019, 6:56 am
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Hey Old Rider. I haven't replaced the original slave cylinder with a newer one and I am using the same push rod. But it does feel like the push rod is too short or something. I am guessing that's got to be something I need to look at when I'm back in my garage today. Might need to get a new slave cylinder?
If you're still using the original slave cylinder, then the pushrod should be correct.

Did you line up the embossed triangular arrow on the pressure plate with the spring post with a slot in the top??
If you don't do this, the pressure plate won't seat properly.
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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old May 7th, 2019, 10:28 am Thread Starter
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If you're still using the original slave cylinder, then the pushrod should be correct.

Did you line up the embossed triangular arrow on the pressure plate with the spring post with a slot in the top??
If you don't do this, the pressure plate won't seat properly.
Hi Old Rider. Yes, I made sure of it multiple times. My new pressure plate has no clear notch indication, so I rotated it 5 times to see which was the correct spring post, but nothing so I switched back to my old pressure plate to see if I could at least get it working and nothing.

UPDATE: I decided to do everything over from scratch last night (This isnít my first dry clutch replacement). Still, no ďgrabĒ from the clutch lever. Iím wondering if my push rod isnít placed in the pressure plate correctly...definitely seems like it is...
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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old May 7th, 2019, 10:32 am
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Did you measure stack thickness of new and old pack to see if the supplied pack is wrong/different?

Make sure the inner basket nut is installed correctly/tight.
What exactly did you change?
steels
fibers
pressure plate
inner basket
outer basket
spring perches
clutch springs?
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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old May 7th, 2019, 11:19 am
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Sounds like a problem I had fitting a new clutch and HDSA pressure plate. I never lined up the dot on the plate with the correct post, for the life of me I could not figure it out and it was not my first clutch replacement/service. Folks on a fb forum pointed me in the right direction, symptoms do sound very much like yours. If you still have the original parts I would throw them back in and see where that leads you as you have confirmed its not the post/dot issue I had.

Good luck.
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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old May 7th, 2019, 12:09 pm Thread Starter
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Did you measure stack thickness of new and old pack to see if the supplied pack is wrong/different?

Make sure the inner basket nut is installed correctly/tight.
What exactly did you change?
steels
fibers
pressure plate
inner basket
outer basket
spring perches
clutch springs?
Hey Ducvet. I replaced: the clutch hub, clutch basket, clutch plates, pressure plate, and the springs and spring caps. I used the same Barnett clutch plate set (that I've used and replaced before). I go off of my Haynes Ducati Mechanical manual for instructions and torque specs. The plates are millimeters thicker (in total) only because the friction plates are new and not worn down, and I really made sure that I put the plates in exactly the way I had them in before. After doing it all over last night, I know I didn't miss anything. The only thing I did new this time was replace my pressure plate. I did pull the push rod out and put it in my new pressure plate. I'm thinking somewhere in this world, I messed something up....

this is the kit I bought: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ducati-Dry-...AAAOSwSypY94mD
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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old May 7th, 2019, 12:35 pm
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If the pushrod is having no effect and the slave side has not been changed we have to assume the clutch side is further out than it should be. you changed enough parts that it could be a number of things . I would start with a little observation of what you have now.

With the clutch assembled is the pushrod reaching the push piece in the pressure plate bearing?

If you fully set the pushrod in the pushpiece and then seat it into the pressure plate bearing how much is exposed on the slave side of the bike?

If the clutch hub is not fully seated on the shaft you could extend the distance so double check the inner hub is assembled to the same height as oem.
verify that the transmission shaft is protruding the same distance with the new hub as the old hub did.

I don't see a issue with the outer basket but the inner hub could be an issue. compare what you have vs the old parts.
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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old May 7th, 2019, 12:36 pm
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Are you sure you have an original oem slave cylinder? As Old rider mentioned if the spacer fell out your pushrod would be too short. Sounds like you pulled the pushrod out from the clutch side, so its possible it pulled the spacer out of the slave and it dropped down.
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