81 MHR new ignition - need advice! - Ducati.ms - The Ultimate Ducati Forum
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old May 24th, 2019, 2:11 pm Thread Starter
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81 MHR new ignition - need advice!

I am waiting for my new Sachse ignition to arrive for my 81 MHR; the new Dyna coils and HT leads are here as is the new Shendingen regulator. I had read a number of positive references of Shendingen regulators being used on older bevel 900s and figured that my old Ducati Electronica regulator may not be the best protection for the new stuff. I just test-fitted the Shendingen FH200AA regulator and it's way too long to fit on the frame where the old one goes; it interferes with the battery. Have any of you installed a Shendingen regulator and if so, where did you put it? I'm probably going to relocate the new coils under the tank so up front may work but I have an oil cooler there which makes things a little tight.

While you are at it if you have any recommendations regarding relocation of the Dyna coils and the Sachse box, I'm interested to know. I've seen several installations already; up front, back under the tank.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Rick

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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old May 25th, 2019, 7:19 pm Thread Starter
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Worked it out! it will fit but only exactly when positioned with the wiring coming in from the top right. There's just a few mm gap between the battery and the regulator. I just finished the wiring and need to make a bracket for better support.
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old May 26th, 2019, 4:46 am
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just make sure that the RR cannot touch the battery when the bike is being ridden, plastic and warm metal are not good neighbours!

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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old May 27th, 2019, 2:17 pm Thread Starter
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A shared concern! The new battery base and strap hold the new battery in really firm; it's not going anywhere! The Shindengen when flat against the frame plate can only move about 3mm! It's up against the welds at the bottom left and that 3mm is used to separate it from the battery. I'm told that one of the advantages of the newer mosfet technology is that it's more efficient so operates at lower temperature.

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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old May 28th, 2019, 2:34 am
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I know that it is not quite the same, but years ago I got a leaking battery on my bevel, and on closer inspection found that the breather pipe had worn through the battery case. Since then I've always tucked a piece of rag between the battery and the breather pipe.

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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old May 28th, 2019, 4:38 am
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Hi Rick

Just replying here so I can attach all the related images from my Sachse and Dynacoil setup. Hopefully something there of interest.

I might have to do a couple of posts due to the forum pics limitation.

I found that I could fit the Sachse unit nicely on that frame tube and then clamp it between the two existing Bosch plates. I put some closed cell foam on the inside of each bracket to hold it nicely. It was handy to be able to do this without having to fabricate or modify anything. The unit is very snug and if you were going to be riding in the rain then it might be useful to tape the ends of the box up or put it in a little bag before slotting it in. I push the connecting block on afterwards from the rear between the welded brackets - you can see that in the photos.

One of the photos shows how I received it s a mess of wires with the idea being that I'd do it nicely. I got the blue and red pins from Jaycar. The Sachse comes with its own pins for the tiny little wires from the pickup. Make sure you give them enough slack when everything is mounted. I used zip ties to hold everything so that wires are never under strain.

The wiring diagram is pretty clear and it's all marked on the box as well. Leave the LED tester off of course.

My Dynacoils are on their own plate, which was one reason I wanted to keep them.

The instructions tell you to not cut the white lead from the pickups and i didn't. However I did shrink some black shrink tubing around it from the bottom up to under the tank. This was to keep it looking right for this bike. You can see where I coiled it all up and zip tied it.

That's about all I have to show. Hopefully something useful.
Rob
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old May 28th, 2019, 4:39 am
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more pics
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old May 28th, 2019, 4:39 am
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and the rest
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old May 28th, 2019, 1:13 pm Thread Starter
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Thanks Rob. I'm sure that this will help me a lot. Do you recall if the crank lock nut is a left or right hander? It may be obvious when I pull my clutch casing off later today.

edit: the cover is off and it looks like the big nut is a righty-tighty but how to get it off? I usually jam a piece of leather in between the primary gear and the clutch casing to stop things moving but that did not work today. I have a little hand-held impact driver but that didn't work either. I have an impact gun but I'm very wary using it on a regular chrome socket; I'll buy an impact socket if I have to, adding to the collection of expensive tools used only once.

I did the same on my old 860GT way back in 82/83 but can't remember what I used back then.

edit 2: I was a very naughty boy and used my impact gun with a chrome socket; the nut came off in a second.

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Last edited by rick81mhr900ss; May 28th, 2019 at 6:49 pm.
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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old May 28th, 2019, 9:05 pm
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One thing of note about Brook's rebuild is that he uses loctite (or whatever his choice of product is) instead of the old lock washers. You'll see in the photos it doesn't have the washer.

Obviously, don't do it all up tight until you've confirmed the correction positioning with the cover back on and the LEDs attached. And take some photos so we can see it all.

Also of interest was that Brook initially set my unit to the 2nd program, but when he came over and set it up, he changed it to the 5th. Might be a good one to start with.
Rob
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