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What is in my oil?

3K views 26 replies 13 participants last post by  duc96cr 
#1 ·
Got my SFS at 15.5k miles and it had its 15k service with Motul 300V. I'm doing the first oil change at 17.5k miles and it looks like there's red paint flakes (white on the other side) in the drained oil. What the heck could this be?
 

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#3 ·
The flakes were sitting at the bottom of the oil drain pan, not visible or floating on top prior. That picture was taken after transferring the drained oil into a jug so that's what was left. The pan was dry and clean before using it.
 
#21 ·
My guess is: Paint chips or packaging labeling from oil container, drain pan, something else on the shelf... If they went through the motor they would be pulverized, checking the screen or filter should tell the story.

t_bare
 
#4 · (Edited)
What is the texture of it, hard to tell from the picture, is it like rubber like a sealant might be, or more like a paint chip? I can't imagine of all the things in the engine what that could actually be and usually a sealant would be more orange than that bright red, is it possible it was on the outside somewhere and was knocked into the catch container, what color is your bike is it that color red?

Thinking about it more, it is very unlikely that was ever inside the motor as it would nearly instantly get caught in the screen or filter at that size and would likely stick to the screen until you pulled it out.
 
#12 ·
Consistency was very much like a thin fragile paint chip that broke when bent. My bike is black and I don't have anything around the garage that could have come from, the pan was clean and oil went straight into the pan to a jug.

I've been unfortunately out of town and planned on breaking the oil filter apart but it's been tossed into the trash.
 
#5 ·
Cut the filter apart and see what's in there.
 
#6 ·
I'd pull the sump filter out and see if there's anything in there. The topic of not using that particular oil for the street has been covered before. The company put out some data that said it's intended more for racing. I'd post the information but I don't remember where I read the information. I believe it's been posted here in the past.


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#13 ·
I'd pull the sump filter out and see if there's anything in there. The topic of not using that particular oil for the street has been covered before. The company put out some data that said it's intended more for racing. I'd post the information but I don't remember where I read the information. I believe it's been posted here in the past.

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I'll give that a shot when I'm back home this weekend. I changed to Mobil 1 15w50 as I'm not trying to pay $70 for oil.
 
#9 ·
There where a couple of bearing failures on here and they where using that oil. I'm not trying to start a which oil is better debate. There are plenty of great oils. However I wouldn't use that oil in my SFS or in any of my other bikes.


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#15 ·
300v is fantastic. Switched from Mobil 1 Racing 4T (another great oil).

Spoke to Motul at length. Perfectly fine for the streets - however since it is a racing oil, you will need to change oil at 2.5K-3K miles intervals. If you are doing that anyway, go for it. If you stretch your intervals, and/or ride conservatively, go for the 7100.

I pay under $60 Shipped for a 4L Jug of 300v. Use it in both my SFS and Panigale R. Smooth shifts and engines purrrrr.
 
#23 ·
oil

Hello Rex and all, learned a very bitter lesson. I have a 74 650 Benelli, I've owned since new. Thinking racing oil was better oil, I put in racing oil for a trip thru Maine to Cape cod.
By the time I got to cape cod the upper rod ends were egged and the motor was trash. RACING oil is for racing......use it a few hundred miles and dump it.
lesson learned !!! Now both my Duc and the Nelli straight 20/50. just my 2cents.
 
#24 ·
I agree. Use the right tool for the job. The additive package and the viscosity in pure race oils are structured differently then in other oils that are intended for street use or hard use. In race oils they shoot for the least amount of parasitic pumping loss and the additive package is structured for constant high rpm use. A phenomenon I remember that was common in the street racer boy scene about 20 years ago was to use dot race tires on the street. These sorry asses thought they had stickier tires for the street but the opposite was true. Those tires cant be kept in the proper temperature range on the street and are really a death wish on the street with less traction.


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#25 ·
One of the great things that a bike with a dry clutch affords one. The ability to use Synthetic oil with engine saving additives. Mobil 1 15/50 for my SFS.
and yes.... it can be had @ Wal Mart.
 
#26 ·
I believe those red flakes are the OEM Ducati thread locker. I noticed the same or very similar little red flakes yesterday when I removed the fender from my Multistrada.

t_bare
 
#27 ·
They’ve been selling oil as “ Racing” oil since forever. How are we supposed to know when to take them seriously ? I’d like to know the logic between dumping it sooner, too. Running at racing rpm’s for extended periods has to be much harder on the oil than street use, unless there’s some key additive that’s omitted . What would be the reason for that. Not buying . It’s like the “ best if used by date “ on food. Makes the oil company a lot of money if you both buy better oil, then change it sooner too.
 
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