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-   -   10w50 vs 15w50 (https://www.ducati.ms/forums/120-oil-lubrication/696497-10w50-vs-15w50.html)

rowbie Feb 3rd, 2018 7:30 pm

10w50 vs 15w50
Hello everyone

I recently bought a 2007 1098S. I read online that 15w50 is what is recommended but my local motorcycle shop sold me 10w50. What is the difference?

I live in Florida so rather warm climate.

duc96cr Feb 3rd, 2018 9:13 pm

As best I can cypher, the correct answer is “ 5 “ .

bcmonster Feb 3rd, 2018 9:23 pm

and it's his first post........

Thumper580 Feb 3rd, 2018 9:38 pm

The low number is viscosity when starting and the higher number is when it gets hotter...operating temp. Numbers are so close it won't matter.

MrAlien Feb 4th, 2018 11:14 am

From Driven Racing Oil

Viscosity is the most important property of a lubricant. Understanding viscosity promotes the ability to reduce wear, improve fuel economy and make more horsepower.

For starters, in oil nomenclature, “W” does not stand for “Weight”. It stands for “Winter” and that is the key to understanding viscosity grades. A 10W-30 is a multi-grade (two viscosities) motor oil, and as the name implies, it meets more than one grade. Forty years ago there were winter grades for cold weather and summer grades for warmer weather. A typical winter grade was 10W. A typical summer grade was 30. These oils were straight grade oils. A 10W flows well in cold weather, to protect the engine at start up, but it’s is too thin for use in the summer. A 30 grade grade oil, thick enough to protect in the heat, was recommended for summer use.

Then, multi-grade oils were formulated. A 10W-30 had the winter cold start flow properties of a 10W and the summer, high temperature thickness of a 30 grade. Multi-grade oils could stay as close to the optimum viscosity over a range of temperatures - not too thick when it is cold and not too thin when it is hot.

The difference between a 0W-30 and a 10W-30 is indicated by how well each flows at lower temperatures. The viscosity of hot oil is measured using different test parameters than when the oil is cold, so the numbers after the “W” don’t relate to the numbers in front of the “W”. The difference between 10W-30 and a 10W-40 is the high temperature viscosity. Obviously, a 10W-40 is thicker than a 10W-30 at high temperature.

Armed with knowledge of viscosity grades, how can we put it to good use? Remember that using oil with a viscosity that is too high can result in excessive oil temperature and increased drag. Using an oil with a low viscosity can lead to excessive metal to metal contact between moving parts. Using the correct viscosity oil eases starting, reduces friction and slows wear.

For even more effective start up protection, use a synthetic 10W-40 instead of a conventional 20W-50. The synthetic 10W-40 flows easily and still maintains enough viscosity to protect piston skirts and bearings when it gets hot. The improved temperature stability of synthetics make them a better choice for race engines and serious high performance engines. Even with a synthetic, however, viscosity changes with temperature. Selecting the correct viscosity for an application requires knowing the operating temperature of the oil. Engines that run high operating oil temperatures require higher viscosity oil.

Engines that run low oil temps require lower viscosity oil. Look at an NHRA Pro Stock engine, a NASCAR Sprint Cup engine and a World of Outlaws 410 Sprint engine. Each engine has a very different operating oil temperature – Pro Stock, 100°F; NASCAR, 220°F and sprint cars, 300°F. All three engines run very different viscosity oils as well − SAE 0W-5, SAE 5W-20 and SAE 15W-50.

Here’s another thought regarding viscosity. It is vitally important to keep internal engine clearances in mind. Looser clearances in the engine and oil pump require higher viscosity oil to maintain oil pressure. Tighter clearances need lower viscosity oil, which provides better cooling and improved horsepower.

DuckMan Feb 5th, 2018 4:57 pm

I've been thinking about switching from a 10w-50 back to a 10w-40 just to save a little more weight but I'm not sure there's much difference in switching the first number. :wink2:

duc96cr Feb 5th, 2018 6:23 pm

I love oil threads ! Here’s what I do :( this ought to explode a few heads ) Whe I change oil at home I try to put the recommended stuff in, but often I need more than I have on hand. I usually don’t go to the store for another quart. Instead, I use the closest thing to whatever is recommended that I can find in my cabinet. Sometimes I don’t have the recommended filter, so I dig around in the filter cabinet and find one that fits. I end up using a combination of Ducati, Harley, Kubota, Suzuki, John Deere, Buell, and Fram filters on whatever they fit. Works for me.

Lanesmatb Feb 5th, 2018 7:42 pm

I’ve been a rotella guy for years but have found a new favorite oil. It comes in 20W-50, full synthetic, easy to buy (Wallyworld), JASO rated, and the best part is the trans shifts like butter. Valvoline 4T stroke full syn at 6.67 qt.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Turbomart Feb 5th, 2018 8:07 pm

Just to add to Mr Allen's post.
Oil pressure is not the goal, we rely on a wedge of oil between the crank and bearings for lubrication. Oil pressure is a side effect, it's created when oil pumps faster than it can drain away through the bearings.
If the oil is too thick oil pressure will be high but you may have minimal oil flow through the bearings. If the oil is to thin it may not be able to support the wedge of oil between the crank and bearings leading to metal to metal contact and wear.

Turbomart Feb 5th, 2018 8:20 pm

With synthetic vs mineral oils, synthetic oils are not necessarily better at handling high temperatures. All oils have additives in them to meet the multigrade specifications. Synthetic oils need less additives because the base stock is better. Since it's the additives that wear out , the main advantage of synthetic oil is it lasts longer allowing extended service intervals.

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