$2 Cracked Gauge Glass Repair - Ducati.ms - The Ultimate Ducati Forum
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post #1 of 2 (permalink) Old May 17th, 2017, 12:55 am Thread Starter
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$2 Cracked Gauge Glass Repair

Here's something I think might benefit all riders on this forum, a quick DIY write up about how to repair a cracked glass in your digital gauge cluster.

Mine cracked on me literally before my eyes one afternoon while I was cleaning the bike. If you've looked into replacing one of these puppies then you know how expensive it is. Ducati charges $1080 for the part (before tax!) and then there's like $500 in fees to get the ecu flashed to the new cluster. Frick me.

I figured, if I was going to spend $1600 to replace the dang thing, I might as well try to fix it any way I could before biting the bullet. Turns out, repairing it is a piece of cake and literally cost me $2 USD.

Here's what you'll need:

1. A $2 piece of scrap, 1/8" thick acrylic from your local hardware store
2. Some good silicone. I had some high temp, automotive electrical stuff laying around. I guess this could add another $10 to your total cost if you don't have any
3. A thin, flat knife or spackel spreader
4. A dremel with appropriate bits

Here's how it's done:

1. First off, you have to, obviously, remove the cluster. Mine is off a 2008 Hypermotard 1100S, but I won't get into the specifics of it because its pretty easy to unbolt and unplug. Be sure to unplug your battery first.

2. Next, there are three (your number may vary) little phillips head screws on the back holding everything together. Remove them. These are all that hold the cluster together.

3. Now comes perhaps the trickiest part, splitting the housing. The way it is sealed is the outer/front bezel has a long, narrow edge that slides into a channel in the rear housing element. The whole thing is "adhered" together with silicone. To separate them, I used a flat, sharp, THIN kitchen knife inserted into the rear housing channel. If you slide your knife (or whatever thin flat thing you've got) all around the cluster, you will break the silicone seal and the outer bezel and glass should come right off. Be patient and work at it. BE VERY CAREFUL not to damage the visible plastic. I started on the underside which isn't visible so any marks made early on aren't a problem. Unfortunately, I didn't get any photos of this stage, but pics from this thread ( https://www.ducati.ms/forums/80-hall-...roken-lcd.html ) show clearly the channel in the rear housing that the front bezel fits into.

4. This step was my favorite. It turns out the glass isn't glass at all. It's plastic. This explains why it cracked so easily on me. To remove it, I placed a chisel along the edge on the outside and chipped it all out of the black bezel with a hammer.

5. There will still be some acrylic left stuck to the inside lip of the black bezel. You need to remove all of it in order for your new glass to sit flush and seal properly. To do so, just use a dremel grinding bit and slowly remove it. Ground acrylic is white, so just take your time and etch away until all the white is gone.



6. Now we're ready to cut our new glass. Trace an outline onto a piece of paper and cut it out, leaving a 2mm border around what you traced. The border will make sure the glass has enough material to seal properly against the bezel.

7. Tape the paper cutout onto your acrylic sheet and cut out your new glass. I like to etch the glass first with a knife and then use a dremel cutting wheel to cut it out. Pro-tip, leave the protective film on until you absolutely have to remove it.



8. Test fit the glass into the bezel. You will probably need to sand it down a bit to get it to fit well. You want it to fit snugly, almost snapping into place.

9. At this point, you're almost there! Put a continuous bead of silicone all around the inner lip of the bezel. Now, remove the film from the acrylic and press it into place, squeezing out silicone all over the place, yummy. If you had a good fit before, it should hold itself there until the silicone cures. Let it cure the full time listed on your silicone tube.



10. Grab an X-acto knife a cut away the excess silicone to reveal your new glass. Look on the back side to see if there are any areas that did not seal. You can see in the center of mine how I almost had an issue. If you do, no worries. Just remove the silicone and repeat until you get a good result. Remember, you're saving serious cash here, so a little extra time spent is ok if it means it's done right.



11. Now you're ready for re-assembly. Use some compressed air to blow out any dust inside the rear housing and front bezel. Then, lay another continuous bead of silicone inside the channel in the rear housing. Press the front bezel into place in the rear housing and screw the whole thing back together. Let the silicone cure again.

12. Grab your X-acto again and cut away the excess silicone for the last time and behold your new gauge. Stick it back on the bike and you're good to go!



I've left my bike outside intentionally for the last month after I replaced the glass. It's been through a day of rain, hot sun and cold, moist mornings with no leaks or fog issues. Hopefully this will help save people some good money in the future.

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post #2 of 2 (permalink) Old May 17th, 2017, 10:29 am
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Great thread, thanks for posting this.
.

'95 M900, '87 750 F1b, '95 GL1500, '06 620/800 MiniStrada...
Running on coffee and sarcasm...
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