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Dec 7th, 2008, 8:49 pm
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Costa Mesa, CA, USA
Posts: 134
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New Clutch Slave - Bleed
Okay, so I replaced my old clutch slave with an Oberon on my '92 900SS. I've bled slaves on other bikes before, so I'm not a complete neophyte, and figuring no big deal. Of course, now I'm here. I think this bike laughs at me when I close the garage door.
I followed the instructions that came with the slave - seemed reasonable (squeeze multiple times, open bleeder, close, release lever, repeat). I've done it, say, a hundred times now. I am getting absolutely nothing at the lever.
I've got a hand pump as well. I can't seem to diminish the fluid at the clutch master cylinder either (squeezed or unsqueezed). Nothing is pulling through. I can hear slight whisps of noise at the master cylinder, and at times, air appears to be coming out at the bleeder, but again, nothing. I've tried a few different things, but nothing.
These are very simple principles on how this works, so here I am confused. Is the clutch master cylinder bad? It's the original. It worked fine before, but maybe it's packed it in?
As per usual, any thoughts, insights, tips or tricks welcome. This is the last thing I have to do, and then ready to finally ride the damn thing again.
Thank you (in advance).
__________________
Robert
"There's no mini-bar in this room, pal. We're looking for salvation through austerity."
1992 900SS
2007 Bonneville T100
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Dec 7th, 2008, 9:19 pm
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#2
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Ludlow, MA, USA
Posts: 82
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Clutch bleed
Go here, it explains what you need to do.
http://www.ducatisuite.com/clutch.html
Jeff
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Dec 7th, 2008, 9:40 pm
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Costa Mesa, CA, USA
Posts: 134
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beekeeper
Go here, it explains what you need to do.
http://www.ducatisuite.com/clutch.html
Jeff
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Oh man. And I've gone there for nearly everything else <smacking self in head>. Perhaps senility is coming a bit early for me.
Thank you sir.
__________________
Robert
"There's no mini-bar in this room, pal. We're looking for salvation through austerity."
1992 900SS
2007 Bonneville T100
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Dec 8th, 2008, 12:28 am
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: San Juan Capistrano, California, USA
Posts: 1,638
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clutch bleed
I stumbled on the reverse bleed idea after I went through a pint and a half of fluid trying to use conventional bleeding to get the air out. If one is simply replacing fluid, you can cycle it through without the reverse bleed but only if you are VERY carefull not to introduce air into the system, which with the coffin reservoirs is a bit of a challenge.
A thread diversion...I'm having the heads and forks on my SS re-built, and can not wait to get it back. I'm having serious SS withdrawals without it. Getting .95 springs in the front.
Guides were shot, and it needed 1 valve. I knew the guides were tired and rode it about 500 miles longer than I should have, so it needed an exhaust valve.
__________________
MarkG
1992 Ducati 900ss
2002 BMW R1150R
1978 BMW R100RS
1970 Triumph Bonneville
1996 Ducati 955SP
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Dec 12th, 2008, 11:01 am
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#5
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Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Helen, Ga, USA
Posts: 64
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Old Country Trick!!
I've always used a small pump oil can with 4" nozzle..You just fill it up with Silicon Brake Fluid (make sure can is very clean!!..I keep one for this only)..attach a piece of vacuum line..open slave bleeder a crack and take top off Master Cyl..Start pumping carefully..(put rags or catch can held by wife under master cyl.) one can full should bleed it completely and IT WORKS every time!!
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Dec 15th, 2008, 9:56 am
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Costa Mesa, CA, USA
Posts: 134
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Thanks for the ideas guys. This reverse thing sounds intriguing. Did not have a chance this weekend - working too much. Then again, these days, I do not complain about working.
Got the holiday break coming up - and who knows, maybe I can find a wife to hold the can by then.
__________________
Robert
"There's no mini-bar in this room, pal. We're looking for salvation through austerity."
1992 900SS
2007 Bonneville T100
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Jan 2nd, 2009, 7:25 pm
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Costa Mesa, CA, USA
Posts: 134
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Hello again...
Per the above, I installed an Oberon clutch slave - I still have the coffin master cylinder. I've done the bleed (actually, I bought the small oil can and the reverse trick seemed to work very well). I bled, and bled, and bled.
So I was ecstatic when I started getting some lever feel, feeling the air had been purged pretty well. Except for one thing - it feels exactly like the brake front brake.
I removed the clutch slave - piston moves back and forth fine (can be pushed in - and moves out with the lever), and the actuation rod is free. Releasing the bleeder screw on the clutch slave relieves the lever pressure.
So I guess I am stuck, or is the clutch? Do I continue to bleed? I did it several times thereafter but the same result. Put the stock clutch slave back on?
As per usual, ANY thoughts, ideas, or guidance are more than greatly appreciated.
__________________
Robert
"There's no mini-bar in this room, pal. We're looking for salvation through austerity."
1992 900SS
2007 Bonneville T100
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Jan 2nd, 2009, 8:04 pm
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: las vegas, nv, usa
Posts: 134
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forget bleeding from the bleeder, i know that sounds weird but just bleed it from the banjo connected to the lever. this crap took me forever and i even broke my stock bleeder and a speedbleeder in the process (btw speedbleeder is a waste).
just pump the lever, put a rag underneath the banjo and crack it open. wash rinse repeat you will be rock solid in no time.
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Jan 2nd, 2009, 8:31 pm
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#9
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Ludlow, MA, USA
Posts: 82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwantin
Hello again...
Per the above, I installed an Oberon clutch slave - I still have the coffin master cylinder. I've done the bleed (actually, I bought the small oil can and the reverse trick seemed to work very well). I bled, and bled, and bled.
So I was ecstatic when I started getting some lever feel, feeling the air had been purged pretty well. Except for one thing - it feels exactly like the brake front brake.
I removed the clutch slave - piston moves back and forth fine (can be pushed in - and moves out with the lever), and the actuation rod is free. Releasing the bleeder screw on the clutch slave relieves the lever pressure.
So I guess I am stuck, or is the clutch? Do I continue to bleed? I did it several times thereafter but the same result. Put the stock clutch slave back on?
As per usual, ANY thoughts, ideas, or guidance are more than greatly appreciated.
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Not sure I understand. Is the clutch releasing when you pull it in?
Is it engaging when released?
Are you saying that lever comes to stop before full travel?
You may want to removed the clutch cover to observe the pressure plate movement. With the rear wheel in a stand you should be able to see if clutch is free when pulled in.
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Jan 2nd, 2009, 9:04 pm
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Costa Mesa, CA, USA
Posts: 134
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deadguy
forget bleeding from the bleeder, i know that sounds weird but just bleed it from the banjo connected to the lever. this crap took me forever and i even broke my stock bleeder and a speedbleeder in the process (btw speedbleeder is a waste).
just pump the lever, put a rag underneath the banjo and crack it open. wash rinse repeat you will be rock solid in no time.
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Thanks much - after reading this, I went out to inspect. Just so I understand, there's a screw in the lever (looks like some anti-tampering goo in the screw slot). This is what gets backed out? Again, huge thanks!
__________________
Robert
"There's no mini-bar in this room, pal. We're looking for salvation through austerity."
1992 900SS
2007 Bonneville T100
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