Hey guys, i was hoping someone with a 1000ds Swingarm could take a pic, close up if possible of the pinch bolt near the pivot bolt.

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OK, I know this is a Monster question, but my question can be related to Supersport of the mid 90's just the same. Sorry.

Quick question. I have a 1995 M900 with the stock OEM 17mm rear / 20mm front axle set up (with the fully adjustable Showa forks from a 1995 900SS/SP).

Has anyone ever done a conversion to get a newer 25mm rear/ 25mm front wheel set up on there? I have a line on some nice Marchesini wheels off of an ST4 and I'm thinking it could work with new bearings and spacers, but wanted to tap this knowledge base first.

I need to keep the speedo as this is a street bike. I also have free use of a complete CNC machine shop to make any spacers/sleeves etc....

Has anyone done this yet on your Supersport?

Thanks!

I picked up an 95 ss/sp earlier this year and I'm trying to get things sorted out. It has pod filters (stock carbs) and there is a vent line that comes from between the carbs that just ends at the front cylinder. I assume it used to go to the airbox. Where do people running pod filters usually do route this line? Do you put any sort filter on it?

I just picked up a 93 900 SS. Always wanted one finally found an original owner 9000 mile bike from the original owner, never down, ridden easy. Aside from needing new tires (original Michelins) I want to fix a couple of glitches. The clutch is extremely grabby, (borderline unrideable), and the front brake seems to be coming very close to my fingers. It works well just has a lot of play.
I've ridden a couple of Monsters over the years ( 1 new in 97, another high mile in 96) and have never worked on a Duc. The valves and belt were done couple hundred miles ago. I'm guessing the brake needs fluid changed and bled but the clutch needs help. Surely this bike doesn't need new plates, does it? The previous owner didn't slip it excessively or dragrace it. I'm gonna put it on the lift and look at it.
I live in Wyoming and the nearest dealer is 400 miles away. The only dealer I've had experience with is Letko in KC. Where can I get a service manual (paper not CD) and a good source for parts? I'll probably fix/upgrade a few things as I go. Right now I'd like to take it on vacation on the 25th to the Ozarks. I've only done the Forum thing with my HHR and Bultacos. These places seem to be a good source of info and enthusiasts. Looking forward to putting some miles on a legend.

My track bike (which of course, I just painted :() had a bad day at the track yesterday, and I posted some parts I need in "Parts and Accessories," if anyone can help me out. TIA!
Joe

Would a 1993 750ss make a good trackbike. I'm not that familiar with the supersports.. Any recommendations would be appreciated.

Hello guys and gals! I have a concern that would like to clarify, if someone can help with this! :think:

My bike is a 1991 900ss and for quite a while I am a little concerned about the oil level on my bike. I have a couple of questions for your consideration and opinion.

1. I noticed that most of the Ducatis I've seen have a "Min" and a "Max" for oil level on the right case next to glass for the oil level. But it happens that my 91 900ss has only one mark (line) and it reads only "Max" but no "Min".

2.My "Max" line is on the very bottom of the window where on the other Ducatis I've seen this line is their "Min".

3.Lastly, if I go by the line indicator on my engine case marking, when I start the engine naturallly the oil level goes down and now below even the glass window. Is this normal? Is this the way it should be? I know if I turn off the engine, eventually the oil level will go up to the "Max" line level but while the engine is running no oil level at the window. So, should the oil level be the same when engine running and when engine off?

Once again, thanks to alll of you that drop in and help with this dilema! For some reason I keep thinking that I should see the oil level at the "Max" level line while the engine is running! :think::confused:

I will certainly appreciate your input on this.

Kind Regards,

Vickon:abduct:

i'm wanting to buy the rearset mounts off a later style SS frame.

this is what i'm looking for.



please pm/post if you have something.

Okay so a few weeks ago after having the bike for a couple years, instead of starting it just ticks once. No big deal, I got the bike used so I figure the battery's probably reached the end of it's little life, so I take it out and have it tested at the auto parts store. They say it's fine, but their equipment wasn't meant for a battery that small, so I just buy a new one anyway. Put that bad boy in and everything's good. Then about a week or so later I get the 1 tick again. Son of a bitch! I'm 40 miles from home in the parking lot at work. So I push start it. It fires up no problem, I ride home and when I get there I shut it off, let it sit for about 30 seconds and I successfully fire it right back up again.

So I'm thinkin' to myself, self, you've got yourself a short somewhere. It might be related to the gasoline that's leaking out of my gas tank (more on that later) causing some electricity to flow to ground or something. They seem to coincide, not sure if it's coincidence or not though. So as a temporary fix I've been pulling my main fuse out of the fuse box, but last night was particularly cold and even that didn't save me from having to push start my bike in a wet parking lot, which was a nightmare.

So I take my multimeter and I pull the main fuse, set it to DC Amps and stick that guy in line with the bike totally off. It goes up to about .13 amps while the bike makes an almost wind-like sound from the instrument panel (what is that sound anyway?), and then it dips down to between 0.00 to 0.01.

That doesn't seem like the kind of amperage that would drain a battery dead. I depressurized my gas tank by opening it and leaving it cracked so that the gas wouldn't leak out, so maybe the wire dried out? I'm officially out of ideas. Do you guys have any?

I did a little exhaust experiment so tell me what you think. When I bought my 95 900SS CR it looked like the picture below. Notice the D&D exhaust system with the rusty headers.



At some point during the modding process I took that D&D system off and put this one on.



And here she was as of yesterday night.



I had a friend take the original D&D carbon cans apart and cut them down to 10 inches and repack them and put them back together. I also had the D&D headers blasted and coated. I put it on last night and it looks like this...





From the rear the pipes are up high and wide out.



Those D&D headers are two separate pipes, they don't cross over or meet and join. With those on and the new cut down cans man is it loud. Stupid loud. Sometimes loud is fun but I'm not so sure about this one just yet. I think they look the business though. Which do you prefer?

Anyone got any ideas for dent removal from SS gas tanks? Left turn lowside jammed handlebars into front left corner of tank.

Fred

Hey guys I couldn't resist the temptation to bid on a complete Hypermotard swing arm that was on Ebay. And now I have to deside how to go about putting it on my 2007 SS800.

From what I have read guys have narrowed the engine case not a big deal, only there is no going back once its done. I'm wondering if that would stress the case torsionally to much, I could build rear sets that would tie the engine mount bolt, swingarm pivot shaft and the two threaded points on the frame where the rearsets bolt on together, which should help reinforce the swing arm pivot shaft.

The other choice is to buy a 1100 engine reasonably cheap $1500 - $2000, which could be offset by selling my engine. If I changed the engine I wonder if using a power Commander I would be able to remap the ECU enough to run the 800 ECU and fuel system on the 1100 engine?

What do you think 800 Hyper Sport or 1100 Hyper Sport? If you have narrowed the engine case has it caused any problems afterwards?

I'm curious about adding frame sliders to my '92. I noticed on the desmotimes site that what fits the later carby SS is not listed for the '92. I'm guessing engine case and thus the frame has a smaller bore on the '92 for some reason. If it's as simple as just honing it out slightly i'll fit the later model units. Anyone know for sure or have experience with this? Thanks.

I have a DS 1000 motor sitting in my garden shed complete with a starter motor. Before I tear into it does anyone know if the starter will fit a 97 SS motor?

can a starter motor run in reverse direction? I rebuilt mine with new seals and brushes. Installed it, hit the ignition switch and all I hear is the starter spinning. I am sure the sprag is ok. but now I will take it apart again and start over. WTF