Group buy- lightweight batteries pt 2

[Antigrav]

I had posted about the group buy a couple weeks ago and the thread became a bit convoluted...so instead of revisiting that let's move forward...

The Group buy is ready... All the batteries are ready to go. I've succeeded in pulling off what I wanted to do and the results are better than expected. Way low pricing and better specs, a better battery, better price. Please feel free to compare pricing with other companies offering the same product, I beat them usually by $35 to $150 dollars, and yes I'm serious.

Below are some pictures, and please visit www.antigravitybatteries.com for all the detailed info. I set up a shopping cart and for a week or the first 20 buyers the site has a drop down where you select "group buy" option to get the discount. I did the sites myself so bear with me if I misspelled words, one link isn't operational yet. Otherwise it works fine and is being fine tuned. The shopping cart is secure through paypal. If you have any questions that aren't answered on the site just email me at scott@antigravitybatteries.com

Prices for group buy are one week, or if you can't purchase this week shoot me an email from the site I'll extend it for you personally.
$75 4-cell
$125 8-cell
$185 12-cell


First picture shows the battery tabs and welds. Highest quality possible Multiple spot weld points per battery and thicker tabs.




The products... 6 gauge leads and disconnects ... fancy sticker too




A direct comparison of an 8 cell to the stock Hyper battery.


Thanks for the board members and people supporting me trying to put this together and who didn't buy into the implication that I could not produce a quality battery for a low price.

[hbliam]

So should I get the 8 or the 12? I ride the Hyper to work a couple days a week and the occasional jaunt to the twisties.

Edit: and it looks like the batteries come with a quick disconnect but do they come with the battery terminal to quick disconnect end of the harness? If they do I would suggest adding that to the product picture in the ordering menu.

[AXE]

I would go 12 cell if your using it alot........................bigger is always better. This is a high compression twin motor and will sap a battery right now.

However, you pay the price of three regular batteries to get back and forth to work.

Out!

[hbliam]

Originally Posted by AXE

I would go 12V if your using it alot........................bigger is always better. This is a high compression twin motor and will sap a battery right now.

However, you pay the price of three regular batteries to get back and forth to work.

Out!

It's a fun ride up PCH.

Not to mention the twisties.

[Antigrav]

Originally Posted by hbliam

So should I get the 8 or the 12? I ride the Hyper to work a couple days a week and the occasional jaunt to the twisties.

Edit: and it looks like the batteries come with a quick disconnect but do they come with the battery terminal to quick disconnect end of the harness? If they do I would suggest adding that to the product picture in the ordering menu.

Yes they come with the adapter harness and are ready to install without the purchase of anything else. Your point is good about showing this. I know I'm missing stuff on the site so it good to get some input.

I had the 8 cell and rode with it in my Hyper for about a year with not a problem... but I only went to the track and canyon runs...I also put the 8-cell in Alex's (08 Hyper) high compression, big bore MOD bike during our last track day Aug 21st... it started it repeatedly 6 times in a row with no loss of power on the starts and with the same cranking authority as stock.... BUT, even though it has serious power to crank over a big twin I feel the 12-cell is the better solution for street riding since it wieghs only 3/4 pound more, but it has more cranking amps and reserve capacity for an emergency or if you accidently leave you keys in the ignition with the lights on...or if you have a GPS on a "non-switched circuit" and and forget to turn it off...stuff like that.

[Antigrav]

Originally Posted by AXE

However, you pay the price of three regular batteries to get back and forth to work.

Out!

The lead is a better value for sure, but I think your looking at this from a different perspective than the people interested in buying this battery. This is a handling performance item... not a "value" vs a lead/acid battery. The "value" is that I'm offer these batteries for a much lower price with better specs than my competitors... that is the "dollar value". The performance value is in the handling by dropping 7 pounds off a high center of gravity point on the bike in 10 minute install is awesome, period. To drop that much wieght in carbon fibre you need your whole bike in Carbon and that will drop maybe 4 pounds and cost over a thousand bucks. Or you can buy a Rizoma bling pieces its all relative...do what you want with your bike. If your interested in Lightweight Lithium I think its a solid value for the rider who wants a weight reduction and performance value.

[desmocourtney]

Do your battery bars cover the vent holes?

[desmoworks]

Are you welding the battery cables on or soldering them?

[Antigrav]

Originally Posted by desmocourtney

Do your battery bars cover the vent holes?

No, on the newer A123 batteries the areas that the tabs are welded to are the designated areas for spot welding on this battery...On the older A123 batteries that they farmed out of the Dewalt 28v and 36v there was a raised crown that had some vent holes... even if you welded to the top of those crowns you would not block the vent holes.. The problem was some people were soldering them into packs not using a battery spot welder, and the solder would cover the vents. Also note that battery "bars" are thicker tabs that are used by the radio control hobby guys for soldering packs together... anyone can do this is just not the best method... Battery "tabs" on the other hand are the nickle strips specifically made to connect the batteries together using a spot welder also made for this purpose.

[Antigrav]

Originally Posted by desmoworks

Are you welding the battery cables on or soldering them?

Please see the first picture in the thread.. note the welded battery tabs that are hanging off the to the side covered in shrink wrap they are about 1 inch long... Those tabs are what is soldered to so there is no heat transfer directly to the battery. The exact method is.... the tab is tinned then the 6-gauge wire insulation is stripped back about 1/2"... the copper is then fanned out to make a broad flat surface that is then tinned fully. Then we bring both parts together apply heat for 1 second to liquify the solder of those pre-tinned pieces and we have an immediate broad, flat, fully saturated connection to the battery tab.