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Aug 26th, 2010, 9:26 am
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#1 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 805
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Cannot adjust front preload???
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Current Rides:
2008 Ducati Hypermotard 1100
2006 Kawasaki KLX250S
2004 Honda CBR600RR
2002 BMW R1150R
1996 Ducati 900SS/CR
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Aug 26th, 2010, 10:12 am
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#2 (permalink)
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HYPERR
In another words, shouldn't the preload adjuster start to rise as you loosen it? In all other bikes I had, it will rise and you will see more lines. I see no lines either. What am I missing?  
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Interesting - I have the same issue on my Hyper, and I believe something is seriously effed up in my front end - like perhaps the previous owner screwed the preload adjusters in/out too far at one point, and now they're effectively disabled.
When I dig into it, I'll definitely post the results.
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Aug 26th, 2010, 1:21 pm
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#3 (permalink)
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Home of vortex tuning
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Sedona, AZ, USA
Posts: 1,559
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The air spring is stiffer than the fork spring. Stock oil 7.5 wt, level 100 mm, max low level per manual 140 mm. I'm running 5 wt @ 140 mm @ my 240#, compression still too stiff, still jittery over tar snakes but using most of the stroke. The preload is internal, you won't "see" any adjustment.
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My home "Wayward" in Morro Bay Ca.
Transmitting throughout the cosmos from my 'Pod
Hammerin' Honda 90's 'round Lake Berryessa since '67
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Aug 26th, 2010, 2:59 pm
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#4 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Wanaka, Otago, New Zealand
Posts: 1,544
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajpags
Interesting - I have the same issue on my Hyper
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Everything is adjusted internal gents you won't see anything special on the outside.
Save up and buy the appropriate aftermarket internals to suit yourself, the Marshockings are simply that, you can play with oil weights and springs but it is a sticky plaster on a gash.
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Cheers KTiMpostor
Monstaman
2010 KTM 990 SMR, 6 speed.
2004 Designa Yello DR650
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Aug 26th, 2010, 4:10 pm
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#5 (permalink)
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Home of vortex tuning
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Sedona, AZ, USA
Posts: 1,559
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Yep, I did what I could do with what is provided, I'm in saving up mode.
__________________
My home "Wayward" in Morro Bay Ca.
Transmitting throughout the cosmos from my 'Pod
Hammerin' Honda 90's 'round Lake Berryessa since '67
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Aug 26th, 2010, 4:39 pm
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#6 (permalink)
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monstaman
Everything is adjusted internal gents you won't see anything special on the outside.
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Oooh - so that's interesting, looked at the manual again, and it seems you guys may be correct. Only the standard HM would have the preload exposed via the adjusters coming up more in a visible fashion. So then the internals ARE different between the two models (which I thought originally it was just the coating).
I think my forks are going to Lindemann...
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Aug 26th, 2010, 5:44 pm
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#7 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Wanaka, Otago, New Zealand
Posts: 1,544
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajpags
So then the internals ARE different between the two models (which I thought originally it was just the coating).
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No same crap cartridges and progressive springs in both forks.
Maxton would be a good idea to chase up too.
__________________
Cheers KTiMpostor
Monstaman
2010 KTM 990 SMR, 6 speed.
2004 Designa Yello DR650
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Aug 26th, 2010, 6:23 pm
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#8 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Milton, PA, USA
Posts: 1,139
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I don't know who told you that the bike was sprung for a 190 #er? It has .68 springs that are progressively wound. Couple that with the stiff dampening, inadequate air gap, and thick fluid that SDONA mentioned and you have an ill handling bike at spirited street speeds or track usage. Especially if you are on the larger side.
I set my fluid up like SDONA and added .90 straight rate springs from racetech and the bike is very good now. I would like to add more air gap though so I can get more travel, but I am mostly content.
You should easily be able to reach over 50 mm's of sag at your weight. I was at 50 mm's with all of the preload added before modification. Are you sure you are being consistent with your measuring? It is easy to fudge numbers doing that job if you don't have adequate helpers taking the measuring, etc.
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...Bologna music, there is nothing, and I mean nothing, sounding like an aircooled 2V Ducati engine pumping out the music through a full and open exhaust system. Knees buckle, conversations cease, and time stands still when such a thing passes by. -stolen from a random post from an anonymous member on esportbike.com
08 Ducati HM
03 Yamaha R6 track bike
02 Suzuki TL1000-R RIP baby
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Aug 26th, 2010, 8:17 pm
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#9 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 805
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OK just to be clear, I have the base model 2008 Hypermotard 1100, not the S-model. According to the owner's manual, the base model have the preload adjuster that goes up and down with adjustments. It even states that at fully loose, it should show 10mm of thread. Mine shows no thread. It does not change externally from full stiff to full loose.
I sat on the bike to adjust the sag and at about 186 pounds, the sag is 1.5"(38mm) regardless of where the preload is. I am suspecting that mine stays at full stiff regardless of where the preload adjuster is turned to.
__________________
Current Rides:
2008 Ducati Hypermotard 1100
2006 Kawasaki KLX250S
2004 Honda CBR600RR
2002 BMW R1150R
1996 Ducati 900SS/CR
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Aug 27th, 2010, 7:24 am
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#10 (permalink)
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monstaman
No same crap cartridges and progressive springs in both forks.
Maxton would be a good idea to chase up too.
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Doesn't explain the difference in what the manual says then. If the preload is all "internal", which by the way, I've never really seen, the manual shows the exposed portion of the preload adjuster for the base model.
So either, the S and the base have different internals OR the manual is wrong OR we have some messed up forks that need attention.
I'm betting on the last option.
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