Advise please - Ducati.ms

Raiden · May 17th, 2010, 7:49 pm

The other day I finally decided to remove that stupid charcoal canister. After doing a search I found this thread i need advise on losing charcoal canister and found it very informative I also checked that article on Web Bike World. I decided to go with Werloc's method. I removed the canister and ran the vent hose down with the other lines and tie wrapped it. I removed the T connector and the short hose and connected both cylinder intakes with the long 1/8" hose. Started the bike and went for a ride to the store about a mile or so and all was good. So anyway today I go to start the bike and the yellow engine light comes on and the bike won't start I check the obvious stuff " kill switch, kickstand cut off switch etc..." nothing After turning the key on and off like 7 times the light goes off and the bike starts idles like crap then stalls, about 3 of those until I get it running. So I take a ride to the mall about 20 miles round trip and the bike stalled about 5 times there and back. I always had the occasional stalling problem but this was bad. I bought the Termi 2into 1 but have not installed it yet plan on it next week. I was going to mess with the air bleed screws but after doing a search I read a post by Dukepilot saying it might make it worse without a VDST. Does it sound like I removed the canister right? Have any of you had this problem from removing the canister? Any advise would be appreciated. Sorry I didn't space this I went back to space it out and I started making it worse so hope this doesn't hurt your eyes.

**CDONA** · May 18th, 2010, 1:00 pm

There is a certain amount of air that is needed to idle that has been blocked with a tug 'o war between the intakes using the 1/8 hose. I scrounged the proper sized screws to replace the hose nipples, standard metric. Adjusting the air bleed screws are needed to allow the correct air mix to stop the stalling. As to the CEL I get two types, longish delay while the instrument lights to go out then CEL, it starts CEL stays on = flapper error. The other, CEL light on no start, my guess the key code error. Sometimes just cycling the key will fix, after a few fails I pull and rotate the key. Another guess, certain stores seem to cause this with the security loops at the door.

NYSport · May 18th, 2010, 8:08 pm

I used the Werloc method also, no problems after 3K miles.

johnchypermotard · May 18th, 2010, 10:46 pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by CDONA

There is a certain amount of air that is needed to idle that has been blocked with a tug 'o war between the intakes using the 1/8 hose. I scrounged the proper sized screws to replace the hose nipples, standard metric. Adjusting the air bleed screws are needed to allow the correct air mix to stop the stalling. As to the CEL I get two types, longish delay while the instrument lights to go out then CEL, it starts CEL stays on = flapper error. The other, CEL light on no start, my guess the key code error. Sometimes just cycling the key will fix, after a few fails I pull and rotate the key. Another guess, certain stores seem to cause this with the security loops at the door.

+ eleventy billion on cdona's method, using the screws to block off the canister nipples on the throttle bodies. have done this on all three ducs i have owned, and have put over 62,000 combined miles on them after this mod, with no issues.

on the CEL light issue ... wtf are you doing riding your hypertard through stores with security loops?

sounds like fun though

Decreasing Dave · May 18th, 2010, 10:54 pm

Then why does this method of connecting the two intakes together work on my bike??

I haven't had any problems with stalling. Does altitude matter, I'm at 4600 MSL.

Dave

**CDONA** · May 19th, 2010, 1:41 pm

Connecting the two will work as a quicky fix, just not as sanitary. I didn't need to adjust my air bleeds for a couple of weeks until it started stalling. I have seen some mention here of the ecu programmed rich cycle for break in that expires at a certain unspecified milage. I checked my service log, stock 1/2 turn out, mine adjusted to idle now 1 1/4 turn out.
John, If you wheelie thru the security loops the key will be above the loop and not be affected. If you walk thru, it may jump the rotating code, the key and lock set may be out of sync for a few cycles.

trippin green · May 19th, 2010, 3:26 pm

what you talkin bout code cycles?

johnchypermotard · May 19th, 2010, 4:32 pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by trippin green

what you talkin bout code cycles, willis?

fixed

lelenb · May 19th, 2010, 7:08 pm

I just used vacuum line caps. I did not have any stalling problems afterwards. I adjusted my air screws when I added the cams ecu shortly after I removed the charcoal canister. The nipples are handy for syncing the throttle bodies. The first vacuum plugs I used were black rubber and they dry rotted quickly so I installed vinyl caps and they are still supple almost two years later.

Raiden · May 19th, 2010, 7:32 pm

Thanks guy's I will go to the auto parts store tomorrow and buy the bolts see if that does it.