help with evr slave!

[disgo duc]

jus installed evr slave and new spiegler clutch line...problem im having is getn it bled did top and bottom bout 30 times or more and evr unit is not engaging clutch all the way...and dont see any air in lines..need some pointers here..dont need the spacer in there do i?ithought that was for earlier models..anyways your insight would help me ducatistis.

[Tard]

The spacer is not required.
It doesn't make sense that things aren't sweet after the install.
I fitted an EVR not long ago and all was very straight forward with good results and no problems.

Even though you have replaced the line as well, it shouldn't really matter other than the fact it will require a lot more bleeding.

Here's a detailed run down of the install I did for a fellow member.
Other than replacing the line this is how it should go down:

Remove the banjo at slave end and put a plastic lunch bag over the end of it while it hangs. It does drain a little into the bag.
Keep an eye on the copper washers, don't lose them.
Undo 3 bolts on slave cylinder, (they're tight), and remove the stock unit.
Put a little grease on the rod and slide the EVR on.
Don't refit the oring that comes off with the stock slave, it's not needed.
Then tighten bolts down evenly a little at time so it fits flat.( I used some blue loctite on the threads).
I used an eye dropper to fill the new slave a little with fluid, it helps to prime it a bit before bleeding.
Refit banjo bolt making sure you have copper washers in place above and below the banjo.
Remove lid and rubber insert from fluid resevoir, and top up with Dot 4 fluid, I used Motul.
It will be down a little because some fluid would have drained into the bag.
Fit ring spanner to your bleeder nipple at slave, make sure to position the spanner so you can open and close nipple without it hitting anything.
Fit plastic tube to nipple so that the other end drains into something.
Pump clutch lever several times with left hand,)there will be no pressure to begin with), and while holding lever in, crack the nipple, with right hand, and then retighten.
Do not release lever until nipple is tightened.
Pump lever again several times and repeat this process over and over again.
I did it about 8 -10 times until I saw solid fluid coming out with no air bubbles.
At some stage you will feel the lever actually working again and if you have open clutch cover you'll see the clutch working as normal at some point.
But keep bleeding until no air bubbles are visible as fluid expels when nipple is released.
While your bleeding make sure your fluid in res' does not run out.
I had to top mine up every 2 or 3 bleeds or so, it's a pissy little res'.
When your satisfied that there is no air left in the system, tighten bleeder to max, top up your res' to max level, this is max after you place the rubber back in the res.
Clean all areas where fluid has spilt with damp cloth and go for a short test ride. Check for any leaks.
I haven't had to bleed mine again at all, nor did I bleed it from the master cylinder. Everything works fine.

Hope this helps mate. It really is a quite a simple install.
Maybe more bleeding is required because of the new line fitted?
Check for leaks on all connections.

Keep us posted.

[disgo duc]

yea thanx tard ive done em before jus not evr ive done oberon and stm and also mpl never had a problem..the only difference this time is that i replaced all the brake and clutch lines with spieglers and titanium banjos.front brakes were quick and easy took 5min tops..then got to the rear brake should be simple but no...20 min of bleeding and no brakes still..anyways i got some clutch reaction now but still not the way it should be going to give a crack tomorrow again and my friend who raced for moto guzzi for years is coming over to take a look at it...but thanx for your helpfull hints...oh yea its possible my slave could be faulty as well.

[Tard]

Originally Posted by disgo duc

yea thanx tard ive done em before jus not evr ive done oberon and stm and also mpl never had a problem..the only difference this time is that i replaced all the brake and clutch lines with spieglers and titanium banjos.front brakes were quick and easy took 5min tops..then got to the rear brake should be simple but no...20 min of bleeding and no brakes still..anyways i got some clutch reaction now but still not the way it should be going to give a crack tomorrow again and my friend who raced for moto guzzi for years is coming over to take a look at it...but thanx for your helpfull hints...oh yea its possible my slave could be faulty as well.

Understand.
When you do the lines it makes a difference to the effort you have to put in and problems that may arise.
I don't believe the slave is faulty, because your rear brake is not 'up to scratch' also.

[hyperdookie]

Bench bleed for trouble free install. The problem with this set-up is that the bleeder is in-line. The pressure is bled off before it even reaches the slave servo.Get yourself a funnel, attach it to the slave,fill funnel 1/3 full with fluid, and actuate slave with a blunt object held in a vise. Pump that thing like a porn star using full strokes until there are no more bubbles. Remove the funnel and install taking care not to spill fluid on the bike of course. It will now bleed in a few pumps.

[disgo duc]

your little trick did the job thanx and figured out the rear brake as well!

[Tard]

Good to hear disgo. How you like the lever pull now?

Nice one dookie

[Decreasing Dave]

I want to buy a new slave now, mainly because I like the pornstar part....

Dave

[hyperdookie]

Originally Posted by Decreasing Dave

I want to buy a new slave now, mainly because I like the pornstar part....

Dave

Hmmm, pornstar slave...

[AXE]

Sometimes you got to adjust the springs for the pressure plate to get the slave to work right too.

As for the rear brake, the only way to bleed it is to pull the caliper and raise it above the master and bleed it from above. I posted a thread that detailed that a long time ago.

Out!