Ignition Mapping Test

[dukepilot]

I've been playing around with dialing in some additional ignition advance using the Rapid Bike 3 module and pro software. I'm running the DP Cam ECU, stock pistons/compression ratio, stock cams and Beast R. Results seem good so far, no funny sounds from the engine. Back to back seat of the pants comparison show that it picks up revs noticeable quicker and quicker roll-on acceleration. Another trip to the Nichols dyno is in order to verify.

Here is my modified map...

[Ducshop]

Good info. From what I can tell the stock and DP ecu's start from 17 to 25 degrees in that area to 25 to 35 degrees, about the same numbers from 5 to 20% throttle. Would be nice if you knew what you were starting with but experimenting is fun if you watch what your doing.

[dukepilot]

Originally Posted by Ducshop

Good info. From what I can tell the stock and DP ecu's start from 17 to 25 degrees in that area to 25 to 35 degrees, about the same numbers from 5 to 20% throttle. Would be nice if you knew what you were starting with but experimenting is fun if you watch what your doing.

Yes, I would like to get the stock and DP ECU map specs. I think my changes are pretty conservative and are based on a dyno developed map from another DS1100 engined bike. Probably won't make any other changes until I can get to a dyno for some measurement.

[08hyper]

Peter, my motor is done at about 7800RPM (see dyno sheet) even with the DP cams big valves & porting, do you think you can move the "powerband" to where it can rev out to 8500RPM with the timing adjustment? Aloha Alex

[dukepilot]

Since you have the H/C Pistals, I would maybe try retarding the timing a bit, certainly not advancing it. I think that playing around with the ignition timing is not going to help you much. The way your motor makes power probably has more to do with the cam profiles/timing, throttle body size and exhaust. Maybe you look into a set of bigger 50mm throttle bodies off a 748 or something like that and play around with velocity stack profiles and cam timing to move the powerband higher.

Originally Posted by 08hyper

Peter, my motor is done at about 7800RPM (see dyno sheet) even with the DP cams big valves & porting, do you think you can move the "powerband" to where it can rev out to 8500RPM with the timing adjustment? Aloha Alex

[08hyper]

Originally Posted by dukepilot

Since you have the H/C Pistals, I would maybe try retarding the timing a bit, certainly not advancing it. I think that playing around with the ignition timing is not going to help you much. The way your motor makes power probably has more to do with the cam profiles/timing, throttle body size and exhaust. Maybe you look into a set of bigger 50mm throttle bodies off a 748 or something like that and play around with velocity stack profiles and cam timing to move the powerband higher.

Thats kind of what I thought, as raising the rev limiter (if I could) to lets say 9000RPM would do me no good if my bike makes peak power at 7800RPM.

So my next step will first be the intake stacks, and "maybe" some 50mm throttle bodies, (expensive) as the bike will still be "steetable" I here if you go to the RACE cams like the ones from NCR, its pure top-end power, and not much good on the street, give & take I guess. Can you stand the noise from your intakes for very long? Aloha Alex

[dukepilot]

I wear earplugs, the intake noise doesn't bother me at all. By comparison, the intake noise on my Buell w/open airbox is much louder than the HM with Beast R.

Originally Posted by 08hyper

That kind of what I thought, as raising the rev limiter (if I could) to lets say 9000RPM would do me no good if my bike makes peak power at 7800RPM.

So my next step will first be the intake stacks, and "maybe" some 50mm throttle bodies, (expensive) as the bike will still be "steetable" I here if you go to the RACE cams like the ones from NCR, its pure top-end power, and not much good on the street, give & take I guess. Can you stand the noise from your intakes for very long? Aloha Alex

[TurboMonster]

Do you know any Dyno's in the Vegas SoCal area that are familiar with the Rapid Bike Software? No one in Arizona will touch it...

I'm running a map I got from "Powder Lite" in Canada, they made me the harness with the MAP sensor. Attached...

It's advancing the timing in the low range (normal compression) and retarding it in the high (high compression). The bike is running, still pinging if the boost comes on to fast in the mid and high range.

I really need some dyno time to get the RapidBike software to work. I hate to blindly keep reducing the timing, plus I really need to see what the duty cycles of the injectors are at.

[dukepilot]

I think your best bet is to contact Robert Foster at rapidbikeusa 718-468-4680 and get a referral to a good tuner from him. Another option is to find someone local with a Dynostar or Factory Pro EC997 dyno who is willing to work with you. Doubtful that you're going to get any help from Dynojet tuners, unfortunately. One outfit in San Rafael, CA could probably help you if you are willing to make the trip. Wheelsmith Racing, aka Factory Pro (415) 472-4962 You'll need to call ahead and make an appointment cause they are very busy.

Originally Posted by TurboMonster

Do you know any Dyno's in the Vegas SoCal area that are familiar with the Rapid Bike Software? No one in Arizona will touch it...

I'm running a map I got from "Powder Lite" in Canada, they made me the harness with the MAP sensor. Attached...

It's advancing the timing in the low range (normal compression) and retarding it in the high (high compression). The bike is running, still pinging if the boost comes on to fast in the mid and high range.

I really need some dyno time to get the RapidBike software to work. I hate to blindly keep reducing the timing, plus I really need to see what the duty cycles of the injectors are at.

[CJS]

Originally Posted by 08hyper

Peter, my motor is done at about 7800RPM (see dyno sheet) even with the DP cams big valves & porting, do you think you can move the "powerband" to where it can rev out to 8500RPM with the timing adjustment? Aloha Alex

In order to get the engine to rev out - shorter velocity stacks are needed such as the beast R . The original airbox and pipe work has too many bends killing airflow . The beast R does 2 jobs at once . Firstly eliminating the bends which helps supply the valve with more air . Secondly they are shorter in turn tuning the rpms for more upper mid and top end.