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Dec 20th, 2009, 7:27 pm
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#1 (permalink)
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: San Diego, CA, USA
Posts: 42
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Hyper coldstart problem
Hey fellas, about a month ago I noticed that my bike does not like to start when it is cold. Usually, coming out of the garage in the morning I start it and it dies maybe once or twice and upon starting it again it's good. But sometimes, usually if I ride to work or something (18miles give or take), when I get on to go to lunch or to go home, it really doesn't want to stay running to the point where I have to hold my hand on the throttle to keep her running. Once the bike is warm however, she starts up just fine. I was wondering if any of you had any ideas as to what might be a solution to this annoying problem.
I am running to Termi 2-1-2 system with ecu. The ca-cycleworks tank with pod filters. Just as an fyi.
Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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Dec 20th, 2009, 8:57 pm
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#2 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,558
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a few questions ... - did you have the TPS reset after you had the DP ECU installed?
- did you adjust the slow idle screws after you installed the k&n air pods that came with the ca-cycleworks tank?
- when the bike is up to operating temp, what is the idle speed?
- when up to operating temp, does the idle stay constant, or does it wander?
- did you remove the charcoal canister and hoses, and if yes, what did you block the air jet holes in the throttle body (screws, or hose plug on the air jet)?
ciao,
johnc
Quote:
Originally Posted by originalebm
Hey fellas, about a month ago I noticed that my bike does not like to start when it is cold. Usually, coming out of the garage in the morning I start it and it dies maybe once or twice and upon starting it again it's good. But sometimes, usually if I ride to work or something (18miles give or take), when I get on to go to lunch or to go home, it really doesn't want to stay running to the point where I have to hold my hand on the throttle to keep her running. Once the bike is warm however, she starts up just fine. I was wondering if any of you had any ideas as to what might be a solution to this annoying problem.
I am running to Termi 2-1-2 system with ecu. The ca-cycleworks tank with pod filters. Just as an fyi.
Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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__________________
vīdī, vīcī, vēnī!
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Dec 20th, 2009, 9:42 pm
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#3 (permalink)
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: San Diego, CA, USA
Posts: 42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnchypermotard
a few questions ... - did you have the TPS reset after you had the DP ECU installed?
- did you adjust the slow idle screws after you installed the k&n air pods that came with the ca-cycleworks tank?
- when the bike is up to operating temp, what is the idle speed?
- when up to operating temp, does the idle stay constant, or does it wander?
- did you remove the charcoal canister and hoses, and if yes, what did you block the air jet holes in the throttle body (screws, or hose plug on the air jet)?
ciao,
johnc
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I purchased the bike used with about 2150 miles on it. It already had the mods done to it so I cannot guarantee that TPS was reset after the DP ecu was installed. However, it was done by a very good shop in my area and I have every faith that they installed it properly.
Regarding the slow idle screws, I know that the previous owner did install the tank himself. What should I look for regarding these screws interms of their adjustment? I'm not exactly sure what I would be looking for.
The idle speed at operating temperature is very constant. Hovering at or around 1000rpm.
The charcoal canister is history and the holes are blocked securely with screws. (just went to check to ensure that they are still in place)
Thank you for your quick response. I hope this added information is helpful.
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Dec 21st, 2009, 12:23 am
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#4 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Sonoma Cownty, CA, USA
Posts: 346
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Idle speed should be 1300 +/-50 RPM. Re-check that first and you can
probably dial it in with the idle air bleed screws, but if the idle is drifting
over time I would be curious about what is changing to cause that.
BTW, in addition to the bar graph tach, you can set the active function
to RPM by toggling through the menu functions with the left hand slide
switch.
__________________
'08 Hyper "S" w/ a few tweaks 
'05 Yammie WR-Supermoto conversion
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Dec 21st, 2009, 2:54 am
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#5 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,558
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the slow idle air screws are located behind plastic caps on the throttle bodies (note: if these have been adjusted, the caps might not have been replaced). look on each throttle body rubber manifold ... you advised that the air jets for the emissions hoses were blocked off with screws ... the slow idle screws/plastic caps will be next to these on each manifold.
as pointed out in previous message, the idle should be 1300 rpm ... so to adjust, bring the bike up to operating temp. then start with one throttle body slow idle air screw using a blade screwdriver, and turn counter clockwise (i believe it is counter clockwise, but you will find out, as the idle will go up, or down when you turn the screw). the idle will go up, but will be "lumpy", until you adjust the other screw. do your adjustments in small increments, and you will be able to bring the idle up to 1300 rpm ... continue adjusting until you get a smooth, consistent idle.
Quote:
Originally Posted by originalebm
I purchased the bike used with about 2150 miles on it. It already had the mods done to it so I cannot guarantee that TPS was reset after the DP ecu was installed. However, it was done by a very good shop in my area and I have every faith that they installed it properly.
Regarding the slow idle screws, I know that the previous owner did install the tank himself. What should I look for regarding these screws interms of their adjustment? I'm not exactly sure what I would be looking for.
The idle speed at operating temperature is very constant. Hovering at or around 1000rpm.
The charcoal canister is history and the holes are blocked securely with screws. (just went to check to ensure that they are still in place)
Thank you for your quick response. I hope this added information is helpful.
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__________________
vīdī, vīcī, vēnī!
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Dec 21st, 2009, 1:58 pm
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#6 (permalink)
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Home of vortex tuning
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Sedona, AZ, USA
Posts: 1,559
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Loose belts will effect starting cold too.
__________________
My home "Wayward" in Morro Bay Ca.
Transmitting throughout the cosmos from my 'Pod
Hammerin' Honda 90's 'round Lake Berryessa since '67
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Dec 21st, 2009, 2:20 pm
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#7 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Dayton, OH, USA
Posts: 989
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Same
Quote:
Originally Posted by originalebm
Hey fellas, about a month ago I noticed that my bike does not like to start when it is cold...
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I have found the Hyper to be a little cold blooded, same as my Harley. I have learned to wheel them out of the garage and let them sit in the sun light on riding days and it seems to help. Since this really only seems to be a spring and fall issue, I keep my battery tenders handy and plug them in on the night before I want to ride.
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Dec 21st, 2009, 2:48 pm
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#8 (permalink)
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: San Diego, CA, USA
Posts: 42
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Thanks fellas, I'll give it a try as soon as I get home. I'll let ya know how it goes.
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Dec 21st, 2009, 4:39 pm
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#9 (permalink)
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Lebanon, PA, USA
Posts: 12
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don't be afraid....
remember.....everytime you change your oil to treat your fuel with chevron techron, and clean your combustion chambers and injectors...... this is top of the line... available @ autozone, walmart, ect...... http://www.chevron.com/products/ourf...tives/tcp.aspx
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Dec 27th, 2009, 6:02 pm
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#10 (permalink)
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: San Diego, CA, USA
Posts: 42
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Well took her out for a ride today and she started right up after adjusting the idle screws to bring my idle to around 1250-1300rpm. Seems like this seems to have beeen my problem.
Thanks everyone for all your input.
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