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Old Nov 3rd, 2009, 7:43 am   #1 (permalink)
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Removing Sheared Bolts

Currently going through the process of replacing a lot of the fixings on my hyper to blue titanium.
As they are so expensive I thought to buy some blue ally ones to use in non critical areas. Big mistake, especially some of the smaller bolts. Even with minimal tightening they are prone to shear.
I fitted ally bolts to hold on the carbon tank panel. One of them snapped and I cant get it out. I tried easy outs, (screw extractor), but as its an ally bolt the easy out is just deforming the drilled hole.
My next thought is to somehow remove the heli coil insert in the tank but not sure how to go about this.
Anyone any experience of doing this, tips tricks etc.
Any info apreciated.

Thanks

John
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Old Nov 3rd, 2009, 8:43 am   #2 (permalink)
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The secret to not breaking alloy bolts is to not overtighten them. For example, M6 get 5Nm of torque, regardless of the OEM torque spec. In my garage I have a chart that came with the bolts, I'll have to dig it up.

Anyway, try a left handed bit to drill it out and hope it catches.

Tom
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Old Nov 3rd, 2009, 9:13 am   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hatdiver View Post
Currently going through the process of replacing a lot of the fixings on my hyper to blue titanium.
As they are so expensive I thought to buy some blue ally ones to use in non critical areas. Big mistake, especially some of the smaller bolts. Even with minimal tightening they are prone to shear.
I fitted ally bolts to hold on the carbon tank panel. One of them snapped and I cant get it out. I tried easy outs, (screw extractor), but as its an ally bolt the easy out is just deforming the drilled hole.
My next thought is to somehow remove the heli coil insert in the tank but not sure how to go about this.
Anyone any experience of doing this, tips tricks etc.
Any info apreciated.

Thanks

John
John see if you can get yourself a parallel easy out. You'll obviously need to find the chart for the correct size hole to drill. The parallel easy out can be then tapped in gently with a hammer far enough so that you have a good purchase area grip to hopefully help break the torque stiction.

If you can't get one then try getting a hold of either an adjustable or fixed size parallel reamer and carefully ream out the alloy screw. You'll have to use your judgement here and ensure you don't contact the original steel insert threads. Once you get to this point you can virtually pick/remove the leftover thread out with a steel stylus type pick tool. All going well it should come out looking very much like a roughed up spring / bad looking helicoil

Best of luck

Last edited by Warp Racer; Nov 4th, 2009 at 5:05 am. Reason: original post from my mobile phone / typos - grammar
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Old Nov 3rd, 2009, 2:11 pm   #4 (permalink)
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+1 on warp racers advise and if you put alloy or titanium back in make sure you use copper grease and only snug them dont over tighten em and on fairings use nylon or rubber washers.
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Old Nov 3rd, 2009, 2:26 pm   #5 (permalink)
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I will be removing all the ally bolts fitted so far and changing out for titanium.
Where I have fitted ti bolts in critical areas such as bar mounts or calipers I have torqued to same value as steel.
Thanks for the replies guys.

Cheers
John
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