Termi manifolds - Ducati.ms

sst256 · Oct 2nd, 2009, 3:51 am

Hi, guys... just bought the Termignoni manifolds for my Hyper and looking forward to install it in the next few days... the only thing is that I am not that familiar with technical stuff, so can anyone help me out a bit by means of advice? I mean is there something I should do first or be carefull with something when getting rid of the oem pipes and installing the Termis?

Also, I am thinking of drilling the hole in the airbox as well and the question is whether I can get to all the bolts holding the airbox without removing the tank. I ve seen a few bolts around the tank but which of those do I have to remove... all of them or just the 2 in front...? What about the cables around the tank... do I leave them as they are or I would have to remove something?

What about the servo motor... how do I remove it or I can just leave it as it is?

And the last question, after I changed the manifolds, installed new DP ECU and reset the TPS will I have to correct the throttle bodies? Or it isnt necessary?

Will appreciate any advice or comment. Thanks in advance.

MTScott2 · Oct 2nd, 2009, 5:07 am

With the termi pipes you should get the electrical connector that fits to the servo motor wire connector and pulgs it off so no moisture gets in there,

Take your time with the fit,, pipe seemed almost too long ,Don't cut, I used a ratchet strap to ADJUST the bends to fit,, Twice around the riser pipe and around the verticle frame pipe between the cylinders ,, pulled on it while loosely in the front exhaust,, Dont Gorilla handle the cans and stuff , Stand back and think about it ,take a break look and think .. I"ll see how you make out to nite P,M if I can help ..

dave2riff · Oct 2nd, 2009, 2:02 pm

For the airbox lid you can prop the front of the fuel tank up about three
inches without removing any fuel lines or cables. The center strap over the
tank under the seat must be removed as well as the single large bolt under the
right rear of the tank near the exhaust. There are steel cable guides on the
sides of the tank over the harnesses that can be bent out to relieve any
tension on the wiring when the front of the tank is raised.

I would say if you aren't very familiar with the bike to (a) get the shop manual
CD (it is on EBay), and (b) do just one of these two jobs to completion (exhaust
or airbox lid) and get the bike running again before starting the other.

Most people like to remove the exhaust servo motor when it is disabled at the
ECU to eliminate the dead weight (about a kilo). However, check other
threads on blocking off the debris thrown in from the rear tire between the
battery and fuel tank. The servo motor and associated bracketry form a
small shroud effectively blocking some of the tire debris.

For the new ECU, a TPS reset is necessary but re-balancing the throttle
bodies is not-- you will not have changed anything with the intake balancing
by changing the exhaust and the airbox lid. However, to really optimize the
tuning it would be a good idea to have the dealer or a tuning shop connect the
bike to exhaust gas CO probes and set the fuel trim and the idle bypass
screws. These adjustments may already be "close enough", but history shows
that most guys on this forum have ended up richening the fuel trim a bit
(which requires an electronic tool such as the TechnoResearch VDST or the
Ducat Diagnostic Tool).

sst256 · Oct 3rd, 2009, 1:09 am

Thanks guys. I will take it into account.