Scotchbrite sick50ford your thoughs on exhaust detailing please

[shanetbird]

If you have some scotchbrite on hand, now is an excellent time to clean up the welds on those zards. imho it looks much better without those dirty welds and you can give the whole system a makeover by simply going around the pipes IN THE DIRECTION OF THE GRAIN (do not scotch lengthwise but rather around the pipe) and cleaning up some of the imperfections from the welding, forming and shipping processes.

is this OK the take the discolour scaling off the standard header pipes ?

not much luck with blue job and thought about 2000 wet and dry then autosol shine
i use this on all the ally on my 56tbird
shanetbird

[Rob998]

Extra fine grade steel wool & Autosol, and a lot of elbow grease.

[MTScott2]

The finish say on your stainless steel appliances is call the 400 finish , A finer /higher # say sandpaper will give you a shiner more chrome like finish if you polish it with the higher #, A lower/coarser # will give you a more Scratchier Finish ..

I put my pipes on three days before he made his post so didn't shine them up...
Make sure to clean them up with Rubbing alcohol before firing up the bike to get rid of all the grease and oils or it will bake on ,leaving stains ,,Let the alcohol evaporate first tho before starting bike

[sick50ford]

Originally Posted by shanetbird

If you have some scotchbrite on hand, now is an excellent time to clean up the welds on those zards. imho it looks much better without those dirty welds and you can give the whole system a makeover by simply going around the pipes IN THE DIRECTION OF THE GRAIN (do not scotch lengthwise but rather around the pipe) and cleaning up some of the imperfections from the welding, forming and shipping processes.

is this OK the take the discolour scaling off the standard header pipes ?

not much luck with blue job and thought about 2000 wet and dry then autosol shine
i use this on all the ally on my 56tbird
shanetbird

yes, and No.
The --RED-- scotch brite pad will leave about the same grain as a 400 grit sandpaper. The Zards have this finish out of the box so it's a much easier Job to touch up those pipes back to their origins as grained round stock prior to forming.

The stock pipes however don't have a grain so you have to be more committed to start the job. After looking at my stockers with about 2000 miles. I would try the scotch to start but if I was not getting much progress I might quickly switch to a 120 or 200 grit and then finish with the scotch brite. The most important thing would be to keep your grain lines parallel or it will turn out like shit.

My favorite tool to make the job easier is cut a 4 inch round out of a sheet of scotch and attach it to a rotary tool like an air powered angle die grinder. About 15,000 rpm. Using the outside edge of the disc to clean and grain simultaneously. You might be able to do the entire job with this except for a few hard to reach areas

I don't have a picture so I drew one


hope this helps let me know how it turns out

[johnchypermotard]

Originally Posted by sick50ford

I don't have a picture so I drew one

man, that's the saddest looking picture i have seen ... form ANYONE

[shanetbird]

Cool will go with that haven't tried scotch brite products much

Love your air grinder you even put a on/ off trigger


steady hand on the CAD software

all good will image finshed work

i'm only doing the main pipes got termi's and getting a kat back
shanetbird

[MTScott2]

If you wrapped a piece scotchguard around the pipe and then wrapped a say 1/4 " rope around the scotchbrite 3or 4 times and then pulled the one end of the rope then the other back and forth that might be a little quicker for the long parts of the pipe " shoe shine stye"

I would draw a picture But I'm not good as an artist

[johnchypermotard]

Originally Posted by Scott2

I would draw a picture But I'm not good as an artist

you CANNOT be worse than chris (sick50ford)

[MTScott2]

That man is a Da Vinci in my eyeThe good one

[hatdiver]

When you come to polishing smear the pipe with autosol compound, then wrap a length of para cord around the pipe. Have a loop at each end then pull back and forth to get a great finish.