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Aug 5th, 2009, 1:49 pm
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#1 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,558
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slipper clutch pack life ...
ciao a tutti -
with a little over 7,000 miles on the DP strada slipper clutch (bucci version) on the hypertard, i have now gone through 2 sets of DP clutch packs (friction and drive plates).
so, i am wondering if anyone else has similar experience with ramp style slipper clutch on a hypertard ... i know the clutch pack takes much more abuse on a slipper, as each time a downshift occurs, the clutch pack takes a hit.
i am seriously considering going back to the stock clutch hub, to get more life out of a clutch pack ... i used to get 15,000 out of stock clutch setups on previous ducs i have owned.
then again, perhaps i will simply shell out for a new clutch pack every 3,500 miles, and enjoy being able to downshift with reckless abandon 
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Aug 5th, 2009, 4:00 pm
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#2 (permalink)
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Extended Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: somewhere between atlanta & n.cali, ITALIA->UK->MI->GA->CA, USA
Posts: 5,352
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any way to treat it "better"? I have a slipper on my hyper and was wondering about same thing. if I match revs does it still take a "hit"?
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ECM IV is May 8-12th 2013, men in bikinis will wash bikes for free FFS. (And stop yelling or you'll wake up the sleeping asian bitches below)
2008 Ducshop Hyper S a.k.a. "Broke Beak Mountain" in a coma after 2011 ECM crash on Cherohala Skyway (w/ Mag-uhne-sium TA-TAS!),Ducshop engine w/ Pistal pistons, EVO slipper, Ducshop stack, Ducshop light flywheel, Ducshop suspension setup, DP cams, 2-1 termi, PCIII, 1123cc bore, shift-tech alum. subframe, DPseat, DP damper, DP 520chain, Bonamici rearsets, Titax levers, Driven CF handlebar, Rizoma beltcovers/mirrors/grips/reservoirs, tail-tidy, powdercoated parts, carbon-ed everywhere, and Xerox'd
2006 749R -the queen... (none shall touch her)
2005 749S -R.I.P.(homicidal left turning land yacht flyover)
2003 749 -R.I.P.(dog avoidance maneuver)
2003 KTM EXC 450 -(alive and revving despite mind-boggling abuse)
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Aug 5th, 2009, 5:02 pm
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#3 (permalink)
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Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Mountain View, California, USA
Posts: 1,026
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnchypermotard
ciao a tutti -
with a little over 7,000 miles on the DP strada slipper clutch (bucci version) on the hypertard, i have now gone through 2 sets of DP clutch packs (friction and drive plates).
so, i am wondering if anyone else has similar experience with ramp style slipper clutch on a hypertard ... i know the clutch pack takes much more abuse on a slipper, as each time a downshift occurs, the clutch pack takes a hit.
i am seriously considering going back to the stock clutch hub, to get more life out of a clutch pack ... i used to get 15,000 out of stock clutch setups on previous ducs i have owned.
then again, perhaps i will simply shell out for a new clutch pack every 3,500 miles, and enjoy being able to downshift with reckless abandon |
John,
I know you put some miles, but you're a pretty cool and calm rider and you don't do track days. I don't see you banging 3 gears down on hard breaking before corners. I would say either the thickness setup is not right, or that old slipper technology simply sucks. When I get a slipper clutch, I will probably get the EVR Clutch CTS (like Peter). I know the replacement pack is more expensive but the technology seems much better.
Christian.
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Aug 5th, 2009, 5:44 pm
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#4 (permalink)
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Extended Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: somewhere between atlanta & n.cali, ITALIA->UK->MI->GA->CA, USA
Posts: 5,352
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I have an EVR... I can definitely feel it "click" when I switch gears... is this normal? Previous question still stands also thank you.
__________________
ECM IV is May 8-12th 2013, men in bikinis will wash bikes for free FFS. (And stop yelling or you'll wake up the sleeping asian bitches below)
2008 Ducshop Hyper S a.k.a. "Broke Beak Mountain" in a coma after 2011 ECM crash on Cherohala Skyway (w/ Mag-uhne-sium TA-TAS!),Ducshop engine w/ Pistal pistons, EVO slipper, Ducshop stack, Ducshop light flywheel, Ducshop suspension setup, DP cams, 2-1 termi, PCIII, 1123cc bore, shift-tech alum. subframe, DPseat, DP damper, DP 520chain, Bonamici rearsets, Titax levers, Driven CF handlebar, Rizoma beltcovers/mirrors/grips/reservoirs, tail-tidy, powdercoated parts, carbon-ed everywhere, and Xerox'd
2006 749R -the queen... (none shall touch her)
2005 749S -R.I.P.(homicidal left turning land yacht flyover)
2003 749 -R.I.P.(dog avoidance maneuver)
2003 KTM EXC 450 -(alive and revving despite mind-boggling abuse)
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Aug 5th, 2009, 6:01 pm
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#5 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Madison, MS, USA
Posts: 225
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I have 3600 miles on a ramp style stm with the original clutch pack except one steel was changed out for the correct stack thickness. So for so good no slipping but time may tell.
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Aug 5th, 2009, 6:08 pm
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#6 (permalink)
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Site Sponsor
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Knoxville, TN, USA
Posts: 420
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11,XXX miles on my EVR slipper clutch on my 1098 and counting - everything, including plates, is still original.
As for hearing a click - they do that sometimes, depends on how you ease, or bang your shifts I think. Meet me at the start of highway 28 in Walhalla and I test her out for you.
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Aug 5th, 2009, 9:20 pm
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#7 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,558
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ok, gathered sharers of wisdom ... the friction plates are still within spec, per the DP bucci slipper manual, but the drive plates are really glazed.
what are you using/doing to clean off the "glaze" that occurs on the drive plates?
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vīdī, vīcī, vēnī!
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Aug 5th, 2009, 10:13 pm
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#8 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: West Covina, CA, USA
Posts: 3,750
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnchypermotard
ok, gathered sharers of wisdom ... the friction plates are still within spec, per the DP bucci slipper manual, but the drive plates are really glazed.
what are you using/doing to clean off the "glaze" that occurs on the drive plates?
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I glazed up my Barnett plates real bad after a track day a while back, the tech people at Barnett told me to "lightly" sand the friction plates on a flat surface with #220 wet N dry sandpaper, just enough to remove the glaze, then I spray them down with a can of Brake Kleen from my local autoparts store, good as new! Aloha Alex
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it is what it is, and always will be.......
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Aug 5th, 2009, 10:43 pm
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#9 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,558
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grazie mille alex ... now all i have to do is find a granite tabletop and i am set 
Quote:
Originally Posted by 08hyper
I glazed up my Barnett plates real bad after a track day a while back, the tech people at Barnett told me to "lightly" sand the friction plates on a flat surface with #220 wet N dry sandpaper, just enough to remove the glaze, then I spray them down with a can of Brake Kleen from my local autoparts store, good as new! Aloha Alex
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vīdī, vīcī, vēnī!
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Aug 6th, 2009, 8:06 am
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#10 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Northern, NJ, USA
Posts: 1,379
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All joking aside, I take my metal plates and step on them on a concrete floor, flip and do the other side.
Knocking wood, I have been doing this with my race bikes since 1989 and have never run into any problems.
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