Fluid reservoirs...

[sst256]

Hi guys, I want to replace my stock cluth/brake fluid cups with the Rizoma fluid reservoirs and I understand that after installing the reservoirs I need to pump through the system in order to get rid of any air bubbles. So can anyone please tell me how do I do that?

[pat1098]

Originally Posted by sst256

Hi guys, I want to replace my stock cluth/brake fluid cups with the Rizoma fluid reservoirs and I understand that after installing the reservoirs I need to pump through the system in order to get rid of any air bubbles. So can anyone please tell me how do I do that?

A helpful tool in this operation is a 20mls or larger syringe. Do you know a nurse? Lots of rags beneath reservoir to protect paintwork - remove fluid with syringe and remove reservoir, taking care not to 'flick' fluid around. Fit new reservoir, refill with compatible fluid - Dot 4' (or Motul 4.1?) - do not use Dot 5/silicon (Harley-type) as does not mix happily... Fit lid, tap reservoir and tube immediately beneath to encourage air bubbles to surface. Only now can you work lever SLOWLY. Use water spray bottle to rinse anywhere that brake fluid may have contaminated.
To 'bleed' system; apply light pressure to - say - clutch lever. Use 8mm ring spanner to loosen slave-cylinder bleed nipple, only after you have fitted a length of battery breather hose to nipple (after spanner). Lever will depress easily as bleed nipple is slightly loosened. BE SURE TO TIGHTEN BLEED NIPPLE WITH SPANNER BEFORE LEVER REACHES BAR, OR AIR MAY ENTER THE SYSTEM! Repeat bleed process until clean fluid emerges through clear hose. Ensure reservoir is topped up during process, but do not overfill or it will leak out of reservoir while riding and ruin paintwork! Repeat for brakes, using same technique, but will probably need 11mm spanner for calipers. (Twin calipers will need to be bled individually). Good luck! Pat1098

[sst256]

Thanks! Will try it.

[Brainfry]

Originally Posted by sst256

Thanks! Will try it.

Another good read below: That is, once you've swapped the reservoirs.

http://www2.russbrooks.com:8000/2009...and-cbr-1000rr

[Suigeneris]

Dude, get a proper brake bleeder from the parts store. Its like $30 and has all directions. My advice is to install the new reservoir and leave the cap loose all night. Your lines will bubble all night. Tap them with a wrench to help the bubbles along the way. Do not pump them and watch the res to make sure you do not suck air back into the line when bleeding. Other than that, its a cinch!

[v12gte]

I thought about that mod, too.
From this picture....I would deduce that we need three reservoirs for the Hyper:



http://www.pjsparts.com/catalog/prod...roducts_id=173

1. Right side for brake CT027 (side outflow wide, with window) $71
2. Left side for clutch CT025 (side outflow tall, with window) $68
3. Bottom right for rear brake CT017 (bottom outflow, with window) $80

I guess the bracket would clean things up, too...$47
http://www.pjsparts.com/catalog/prod...roducts_id=632

[AXE]

You can read my earlier post, but to properly bleed the rear on this bike you need to pull the whold caliper and raise it above the master cylinder to bleed it. Your rear brakes will actually work then, without having to stand on it. I used a Might Vac to bleed mine, but really it is no better than the traditional crack, pump, tighten, add fluid, repeat method.

Out!

[desmoworks]

Originally Posted by v12gte

I thought about that mod, too.
From this picture....I would deduce that we need three reservoirs for the Hyper

1. Right side for brake CT027 (side outflow wide, with window) $71
2. Left side for clutch CT025 (side outflow tall, with window) $68
3. Bottom right for rear brake CT017 (bottom outflow, with window) $80

I guess the bracket would clean things up, too...$47

Yep, those are the correct parts for the hyper. We have these all at the same price except the rear brake reservoir is $68 on our site rather than $80.

The last bit - the 6mm mount #CT450B isn't necessary, but it does mount real nice and compliments the machined fluid tanks nicely.

We also have brembo clear brake fluid tubing and clamps that look better than the stock black tubing IMO.

[desmoworks]

Have you guys ever used a bleeder that hooks up to an air compressor? I had been using a might vac and one of the guys at the shop was laughing at me. He said to try is bleeder.... what a joke. I had a brand new master cylinder, 2 front calipers and 2 lines. Hooked up this contraption and was done bleeding the system PERFECTLY in a few minuets with no mess, no headache, etc...

They always say to use the right tool for the job and if you have access to one - it really is the right tool for the job!

[BrianG]

Really, you don't need to bleed it at all, if you are careful.

1. Drain the reservoir with a syringe or turkey baster or siphon, or whatever...... mop out the remaining brake fluid with paper towel so that it's dry and there's nothing left to spill.

From this point DO NOT TOUCH THE MASTER CYLINDER LEVER of the unit you are working on until step 5.

2. Detach the OEM reservoir. Be careful of the fluid left in the reservoir-to-master-cyl line.

3. Mount the Rizoma reservoir and attach the line.

4. Refill the Rizoma reservoir and flick the line with your finger, or tap it with a screw driver handle. Some bubbles may be seen escaping into the reservoir.

5. Gently pump the lever.... first move it only about 10% of pull a few times...
............then 25% a few times...
............then pull it hard a few times.
You will see bubbles come into the reservoir sometime during this operation.


If you don't move the lever before you refill the reservoirs, the master cylinder will not see air, and all you need to do is purge the little bit of air in the reservoir-to-master-cyl line.

Worked for me............. and replacing the 999's integral reservoirs with the remote units is a bit more tricky because that line is new and totally dry. Still no need to bleed.

I did have the benefit of clear brake-fluid line so that I could see the fluid displacing the air.