Exhaust Leak

[NYSport]

Well I read all the posts I could find on exhaust leaks and decided that anti-seize with a high metal content and high temp rating was the way to go. I have a leak between the header pipe and Termignoni cat eliminator pipe. I applied liberal amounts but not too much to both pipes and let it set overnight. This afternoon I cranked up the bike with great anticipation, well it worked great, no leak, for about 30 seconds and then pushed the anti-seize out of the joint and the leak is back. The clamp is as tight as I can make it. Any suggestions from anyone that's solved the problem (besides welding the two pipe together)?

Tom

[Trials/Rider]

FWIW on the trials bike we use the red high temp silicone for the pipe connections. You might give that a try. Use the same anti seize on any bolts that see allot of heat.

[Caidly]

High temp RTV instead of anti-seize.

[Largerthan9]

I used brass shim stock.

[NYSport]

Originally Posted by Trials/Rider

FWIW on the trials bike we use the red high temp silicone for the pipe connections. You might give that a try. Use the same anti seize on any bolts that see allot of heat.

Thanks I'll give it a try. I use the anti seize on the header studs.

[NYSport]

Originally Posted by Largerthan9

I used brass shim stock.

If I can find it and it's thin enough. What type of place carries shim stock?

Originally Posted by NYSport

Charlie where have you been? We coordinating some more track days at NJMP do you want me to send you our schedule when its confirmed?

Tom

[heffergm]

Not sure where you got the idea antiseize will stop an exhaust leak, because it most definitely won't. All you need is a shim I suspect. You might just want to swing by a muffler shop believe it or not and tell them what you're looking for. Or perhaps a local autoparts store... never needed to actually look for one before.

[GMP]

Clean up the anti-seize mess with contact cleaner and re-assemble with red hi-temp silicone. Let cure at least overnight before starting. That should work, but if the gap is too big and it blows out, try muffler cement. Both have worked for me.

[hyperdookie]

Originally Posted by GMP

Clean up the anti-seize mess with contact cleaner and re-assemble with red hi-temp silicone. Let cure at least overnight before starting. That should work, but if the gap is too big and it blows out, try muffler cement. Both have worked for me.

+1 I don't know about the RTV, personally I hate the stuff and avoid using it whenever possible.It's such a "gas station" repair.I don't have an exhaust leak, but if I did I would use an exhaust specific sealer.We use one at our shop(automotive) made by Wurth.Good stuff.

[johnchypermotard]

tom ... unless termi has redesigned the cat eliminator they are marketing for the hypertard, all 3 of the earlier eliminators i have seen locally installed, have suffered from leaking, due to the riser section being too short, and not fully sealing against the mid-pipe.

if this is the case, i don't believe there is enough sealing material in the universe to correct the problem.

all 3 local hypertard owners switched to a leovince cat eliminator ... no leaking.

again, i must stress: if termi HAS modified the design of thier cat eliminator and increased the pipe overlap on the connections, then all of the above is just me mouthing off as usual. but if the cat eliminator you have is leaking from the riser side connection, and the pipe overlap looks short ... then solution is switch to a leovince cat eliminator.