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Old Mar 8th, 2009, 9:59 pm   #1 (permalink)
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Best cheapest mod!!

By far the charcoal canister removal has been the best cheap mod to my stock S. No more poppining on deceleration the lurchy throttle resonce is almost gone and she runs smoother at all RPMs. Wow!! Sorry California. I'v said it before and I'll say it again, the EPA isn't about saving the planet. Bikes that are run to lean ,stifled ,corked-up,don't run properly,burn more oil use more gas and don't last as long!! How the hell is THAT good for the environment !!
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Old Mar 8th, 2009, 11:17 pm   #2 (permalink)
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the best cheapest mod (as in FREE) is to cut a 2 1/4" hole in the top of the stock airbox, centered on where the air filter sits.

this mod has been tested on dyno @ ducati factory, and adds 4HP.

figure about 20 minutes to remove the stock airbox lid, 10 minutes to cut the hole with a circular saw bit in a hand drill or drill press (or, a mill, if you have one;-), and another 20 minutes to bolt it all back up.

note: if you have trouble with the airbox lid inserts coming loose, don't sweat it ... just:
  • pull the insert out all the way
  • clean the hole, apply liberal amount of epoxy
  • thread the bolt into the insert
  • epoxy the outside of the insert (careful not to get any epoxy on the bolt) and press it into the hole in the airbox (use a small hammer to tap it in if required)
  • let the epoxy set
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Old Mar 9th, 2009, 7:14 am   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnchypermotard View Post
the best cheapest mod (as in FREE) is to cut a 2 1/4" hole in the top of the stock airbox, centered on where the air filter sits.

this mod has been tested on dyno @ ducati factory, and adds 4HP.

figure about 20 minutes to remove the stock airbox lid, 10 minutes to cut the hole with a circular saw bit in a hand drill or drill press (or, a mill, if you have one;-), and another 20 minutes to bolt it all back up.

note: if you have trouble with the airbox lid inserts coming loose, don't sweat it ... just:
  • pull the insert out all the way
  • clean the hole, apply liberal amount of epoxy
  • thread the bolt into the insert
  • epoxy the outside of the insert (careful not to get any epoxy on the bolt) and press it into the hole in the airbox (use a small hammer to tap it in if required)
  • let the epoxy set
doing this mod this week.... I have heard nothing but good things about it.
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Old Mar 9th, 2009, 10:42 am   #4 (permalink)
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Dropping a tooth on the front sproket is a good cheap mod too.
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Old Mar 9th, 2009, 11:12 am   #5 (permalink)
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How do you decide which tooth to grind out of the sprocket?
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Old Mar 9th, 2009, 11:32 am   #6 (permalink)
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How do you decide which tooth to grind out of the sprocket?
If you don't mind it being asymmetrical, pick any one. Otherwise just take a bit off each one..
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Old Mar 9th, 2009, 12:04 pm   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toomey View Post
If you don't mind it being asymmetrical, pick any one. Otherwise just take a bit off each one..
I just cut a slice out of my sprocket like a pie and pinched it back together.

Actually, the best cheapest mod is to set the sag and adjust the compression and rebound settings of the suspension for your wieght and riding style/roads. Lots of threads on this, but it will make a much nicer bike and the front end twitchiness will be eliminated which improves safety.

Out!
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Old Mar 9th, 2009, 2:51 pm   #8 (permalink)
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I want to do this too. BUT, I know that my bike is running a little on the lean side from the factory. Wouldn't this just make it run leaner and hotter? Normal run temps in the heat of the Summer are about 250 and stopped in traffic I've gone as high as 297 degrees......
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Old Mar 9th, 2009, 3:13 pm   #9 (permalink)
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You can also cut a 1.5 inch hole in the bottom of the box as well, this improves things again as the hyper boxes are small.

Werloc yes this will only add to your problems, either an 02 manipulator or DP ECU will fix this.
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Old Mar 9th, 2009, 3:18 pm   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnchypermotard View Post
the best cheapest mod (as in FREE) is to cut a 2 1/4" hole in the top of the stock airbox, centered on where the air filter sits.
I read somewhere 2", others 2 1/8" and now 2 1/4", does it really makes a difference after 2"?
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