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Old Mar 4th, 2009, 11:46 pm   #1 (permalink)
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Making a cheap lower/comfort seat...

My seat was bugging me because it was really sloped to the tank so when I was sliding my butt back to tuck on the highway or just take a longer ride I found the seat uncomfortable as many others do. I wanted a comfort seat but at $229 I was balking because I just bought a new helmet and one piece leather suit, I wanted the gear more than a seat.

Anyway to get to my point you can do your own seat with about 1 hour work or about 2 hours if you want to take your time. I used a very sharp long bread knife (serated type knife) and then used a 50 grit belt sander belt that fit tight over a piece of 1x4 wood. Keep in mind I do have a belt sander and disc sander, but after a few short runs I found they cut too fast so I just used the block sander and it works fine and fast...I never new you could sand foam but it sands easy and smooth....(I did research on the internet before I did the seat)

I undid the staples from the the rear of the seat but left the front staples on where the "wings" of the seat are so I could pull the seat cover up to the front of the seat to cut/sand but didn't take it all the way off. This way it stays ready to just pull it back over and staple it without the re-alignment hassle.

After I pulled the cover up exposing the foam I remounted the seat I then drew a centerline on the seat foam using the back bolt and guessing the front center, then used a 2" wide small level to make a very basic grid on the seat foam so I could know if I was cutting relatively straight and keeping the depth correct.

With the seat secured on the bike so it would stay sturdy (bike gets foam all over it which blows off easy) I started to cut at the front part of the seat about 4 inches back where the curve start to raise. Once your at this point you can see how much you want to do to your seat... Anyway for me i just started cutting it taking my time starting at the front then just cutting back at the angle I wanted... I ended up going from zero removal at the front to removing about an 1.5 inches deep 2/3 of the way back then tapering to about 1/4 at the seat bolt. I did a hump orginally and it looked great but it stopped my butt sliding back so I ended up just making it straight which make the seat cover stay flat also.

When you cut with the knife it will leave the foam with ugly waves in it... don't worry they hand sand out easy with the wood block and 50 grit I had some really ugly sections but they just sanded out and blend very easy. and the block allows you to keep it all flat and even.

I took off about 1.5 inches toward the back and it still has about 1.5 inches of foam so your pretty safe with how much foam you have.All it takes is a little patience and a basic knowledge of working with your hands and the shaping is easy. If you've done some wood work its cake...

Anyway it doesn't really look different because I used the same seat cover, but the feel and slope are dramatically different... it flatter and wider and doesn't push me forward or crush my nads.

I would still rather have the DP comfort seat because it looks very cool and has that nice stitching. But this is such an easy and huge improvement for ass comfort that an hour is worth it...

You will need:

long sharp bread knife ( the pros use electric knife)
1/4 inch staples
1 50 grit sanding belt with a 1x4 cut so the belt fits around it very tight
Elbow grease
Patience and some skill with your hands.




[IMG][/IMG]
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Old Mar 5th, 2009, 12:04 am   #2 (permalink)
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you can also use a electric turkey cutter it works pretty well.usually if u go to a automotive interior shop you can get it ulpostered for around 50 to 75 bucks if you have to have the fancy stiching or suede etc.....
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Old Mar 5th, 2009, 6:41 pm   #3 (permalink)
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sounds like something that is in my near future. i just wish you posted some action shots. just a standard staple gun with 1/4 " staples?

Last edited by sick50ford; Mar 5th, 2009 at 6:47 pm.
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Old Mar 5th, 2009, 8:11 pm   #4 (permalink)
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I don't have the eye for that sorta thing so I gave mine to the pros, $70.00 NZ or $35.00 US, wasn't worth me trying then taking it to them to fix my fuck up

Good job Antigrav.
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Old Mar 5th, 2009, 9:49 pm   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by sick50ford View Post
sounds like something that is in my near future. i just wish you posted some action shots. just a standard staple gun with 1/4 " staples?
You may be in luck... I'm going back in because I think I can take more off the back where the mounting nut is while keeping the gentle slope so it looks more streamiline and I don't need alot of padding there...I think it will look streamline like an MX seat but we will see... I will at that time take photos of how I pull the cover back and cut it and how rough it looks before I sand it...
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Old Mar 5th, 2009, 10:04 pm   #6 (permalink)
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bitchin. thanks
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Old Mar 5th, 2009, 11:15 pm   #7 (permalink)
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I recall seeing some gel inserts that you could add if you want too.

Nice job!

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Old Mar 6th, 2009, 10:01 pm   #8 (permalink)
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Sick50 here are some pics... these are of me doing the rear of the seat

The sophisticated tools used...

[IMG][/IMG]

Cutting the back of the seat knife was dull at this point but it didn't matter

[IMG][/IMG]

As you can see the cut is very rough at this time, but I left enought to work down to the hieght I wanted...



After sanding... I decided to bevel the edges of the rear of the seat for a more stream line look. I was getting a little to into in but it did work out decent... all I did was hold the block at an angle and eyeballed the bevel....




This shot shows how I leave the front of the seat cover attached since I'm only working from the slope back.....




recovered with bevels top view... note the saggyness at bolt hole... this can be easy corrected but I just tacked the cover on for a quick photo shoot.



Side shot of the seat... note how much lower the seat is in the back compared to where the light cover is... its way below the light cover which I like.... all and all i think it came out fine.. The only problem I'm haveing is my manuel staple gun isn't driving the staple as deep as I want... you might want to get a cheap electic staple gun... I'm fine with the staple not driven totally but its not as clean as could be but it does hold fine...



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Old Mar 6th, 2009, 10:30 pm   #9 (permalink)
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Thanks Scott! I loved the "Seat reshaping for idiots" narration/pictures. Only thing that could have made it better would have been a picture of you, covered in dust, wiping your sweaty brow and a smart looking dog in the background staring at you in question.
I wonder if i could find a similar size sheet of 1/2"-1" memory foam easily someplace and install that over the shaped seat. Also thinking about looking for some other material just to give it a custom look. I bet i could just transfer the pattern from the old cover (plus some spray glue if needed) and make it a fairly simple job.
thank again for the play by play.
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Old Mar 7th, 2009, 12:14 am   #10 (permalink)
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Thanks Scott! I loved the "Seat reshaping for idiots" narration/pictures. Only thing that could have made it better would have been a picture of you, covered in dust, wiping your sweaty brow and a smart looking dog in the background staring at you in question.
I wonder if i could find a similar size sheet of 1/2"-1" memory foam easily someplace and install that over the shaped seat. Also thinking about looking for some other material just to give it a custom look. I bet i could just transfer the pattern from the old cover (plus some spray glue if needed) and make it a fairly simple job.
thank again for the play by play.
Yep you can buy the foam easy and do what ever your hearts desire. I went to a foam shop a couple years back here in LA and was blown away by all the different shit they have...I got dense foam for a matress and some sound proofing for a studio. You are right on track about the memory foam and and spray glue... you can do what you want as long as you think it though and imagine it. Good luck and post up what you end up doing....
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