Hey Terry, if you could handle looking at your exhaust without the tips for a month, Kerr West only wanted 15 bucks to plate mine.
so basically Kingsnake said most of it here
#1 remove pipes. It pretty straight fwd take off. you will have to remove the license plate bracket and the side covers. then separate the 2 cans
#2 drill out the rivets. They are stainless so go SLOW with the drill and use a good bit. Just drill them until the tops come off. Then use a blunt punch (like what you use to set a nail) and hammer the base of the rivet into the pipe. You will hear it drop out and it will leave the hole nice and clean. You could drill the rivets all the way out but that is REALLY tough and would probably eat up some bits.
#3 grind or cut the fake end thing off the can. It like there is this little raised piece with 3 tabs holding it on. I used a grinder and cut it at the weld.
#4 cut the real end off the can. For this I use a plasma a torch or cut off saw would work but plasma's are the best. You will also need to cut around the outlet hole as well. The the end will come off and you can see the inside of the exhaust can.
#5 Remove the small pipe that originally was welded to the exhaust tip. This is tough because its hard to get into the can to get it. I ended up using a metal chisel to free it up a little and a pipe wrench to twist it free.
#6 weld it all back together. It doesn't have to be welded solid... just line it up and weld it enough that you know it is there. weld the fake end cap back on too. if you dont have a welder Im sure a local muffler shop would weld it up for a couple of bux
#7 put the aluminum caps back on and rivet them in place with 5/32 rivets. I used stainless that are hard on cheap rivet gun though. I think aluminum rivets would be fine.
#8 put the exhaust back on the bike... use loctite on the bolts!!!
#9 Listen to that sweet sweet Ducati roar.
what i will add is on step #4 after you cut the outlet free you will want to finish this hole at 1 3/4 inches.
step #5 is the hardest part for sure. i hacked at the outlet pipe with a die grinder bit by bit. i cut this down to about an inch long stub then went at the inside of the stub with an carbite tip in the die grinder to release the weld that is on the back side. (I think this weld is why the other post my MY45 cut into the exposed part of the can.)
Carbite tip
you could just cut the stub short and clean it up and be fine as well. you would then be looking at something like this.
Step #7 i used 3/16" stainless rivets because thats what i had on hand
weld the end back on and its a wrap.
Linear Mode
