Zard Headers Tuning?

[AXE]

I have a Zard Top Gun slip on system with a DP ECU (2-1), DP air box lid, and DNA filter. After I put these mods on I had the bike on the dyno, TPS reset, fuel trim set, and throttle bodies sync’d. I just received a set of Zard headers and cat eliminator/mid pipes and was wondering if I need to have it tuned again with this addition.

The Zard pipes are larger diameter and it loses the cat, so flow should be much higher. I want to put it on the dyno to see the performance changes anyway, so the tuning isn’t really a big deal I guess, just wondering if was completely necessary.

Thanks!

Out!

[Monstaman]

Originally Posted by AXE

I have a Zard Top Gun slip on system with a DP ECU (2-1), DP air box lid, and DNA filter. After I put these mods on I had the bike on the dyno, TPS reset, fuel trim set, and throttle bodies sync’d. I just received a set of Zard headers and cat eliminator/mid pipes and was wondering if I need to have it tuned again with this addition.

The Zard pipes are larger diameter and it loses the cat, so flow should be much higher. I want to put it on the dyno to see the performance changes anyway, so the tuning isn’t really a big deal I guess, just wondering if was completely necessary.

Thanks!

Out!

Axe, I would tune just to optimize it, not to rake out the last HP but to make her smooth and most probably more fuel efficient which is never a bad thing with only 12.4 L.

Mate of mine has made some nice headers and in essence they look very much like the Zard set but he still has his valve in at this point.

His bike now has 86 ft pd of torque and 92 RWHP, std ECU piggybacked with a PC which is only operable above 5K I think.

He tested on the same dyno complete standard, from factory 74 ft pd and 86 RWHP so just unblocking it made a huge diference.

I have this morning drilled 1 1/2 inch hole in the bottom of my airbox as well, I beleive this will help considerably as the airbox on the Tard is quite small.

[AXE]

Well, I got the headers installed today. It took longer than I thought it would, but you got to get rid of all the stock plumbing, EXUP, cat mount brakcet behind the rearset, etc. Then there is some slight fitment difficulties. I had to cut a notch in the Zard Bracket that attaches to the crancase as it was about 1/4 inch off and no way to make it work unless you took the bracket off and rewelded it further back. The best way to fit the headers is to loosely fit the headers with just a nut on each header bolt. Then go for the midpipe and connect it to the header first then the cans.

I also cut the Zard heat shield off and smoothed out the can. It looks way better that way.

I took a little ride around the hood and it sounds even much better than just the slip ons. I didn't think sound could improve that much, but it is a much deeper tone without the cat. It appeared to have a little more snap when on the throttle, it was also reving a little more freely, and the compression braking was not as abrupt.

Can't wait to get it on the dyno and wring it out a little on the road.

Out!

[AXE]

Definitely a little more power. I was able to grab a 3rd gear wheelie with just a firm tug on the bars, even with full tank of gas. Running on flat ground about 60-65 mph at about 6500 rpm, roll off a little, stab and tug, set sail!

Did I mention this thing sounds better than anything I have ever heard.

Out!