GP shift using stock rearsets and shift lever - Ducati.ms

EarthBM · Sep 26th, 2008, 12:16 pm

Was looking closely at the stock setup and think it can be done using all the stock parts.

(I call the lever that connects directly to the gearbox a "knob" and the foot pedal a "lever" here).

-- move the gear knob from the stock 12 o'clock position to about 3-4 o'clock.
-- the hole will be almost directly behind the shift lever (there may be a clearance issue in which case the gear knob needs to be flipped on the pivot). Leverage ratios see to be the same as stock setup.
-- drill a hole in the stock gear lever where the hole in the knob is.
-- connect the two using some kind of eccentric bolt or make the hole in the gear lever oblong allowing the connecting bolt to slide in in to allow for rotation.

Any thoughts?

Especially on the best off-the-shelf connection to use between the knob and the lever? I was thinking about making a "chickane" in a standard bolt, but would prefer some kind of bearing involved.

EarthBM · Sep 26th, 2008, 9:19 pm

No one? Ok here are the pics. Looks like there is no need to connect using a crooked bolt, straight bolt would work Ok.

The question to the experts though: If I drill a hole in the gear shift lever with the diameter of about 50% the lever's width, is it likely to break easily?

Ireek · Sep 27th, 2008, 10:39 am

I'll bet if you cut out the end of the "knob" to make it like a fork, you could run your bolt thru the shifter and into the fork and it may work. Or just make the existing hole in the knob oblong in shape to give yourself some room for rotation. Keep the tolerances (up and down) tight between the shifter and the knob and a little grease it should work. We'll let you be the guine pig. Keep us informed.

AZ_Scott · Sep 27th, 2008, 11:50 am

What you're going to end up with is sort of a "peg and slot", kind of like the way radial steering dampers connect to the headstock of a frame.

I'm not sure it's a great idea for this application. I think you'll have too much slop in the system, since you have to allow enough free play to prevent binding. You'll have not only the sliding of the "peg" in the slot, but there will also be some amount of twisting torque. I imagine it will end up wearing quite a bit over time, leading to even more slop. Not to mention, it will be a steel peg moving around in an aluminum slot, which isn't ideal.

If you could weld an extension to the bottom of the shift lever and have it line up with the stock link, kind of where it sits in your second picture, that could work, maybe. (Or have the extension rise above the lever, whichever way has clearance...)

AZ_Scott · Sep 27th, 2008, 12:01 pm

EarthBM · Sep 27th, 2008, 12:47 pm

Thanks Scott, these were my doubts, exactly. Also when the "knob" and the "lever" are aligned the lever pedal is to high to be comfortable. Moving it lower creates additional angle between the lever and the knob, which isn't ideal.

totnac · Sep 27th, 2008, 3:43 pm

i have tried this when i first got my hyper.

it didn't work very well, like you said the lever pedal is too high to be comfortable.

some adjustments and it wouldn't move or it stays on 1st gear since the allignment of the knob is off and touching the lever's base

EarthBM · Sep 27th, 2008, 5:27 pm

Satos orderd.... Bugger.

crashman · Sep 27th, 2008, 6:08 pm

I guess I just wonder why. The Hyper doesnt seem like a bike that would really benefit from reversing the shift pattern.

AZ_Scott · Sep 27th, 2008, 11:23 pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by crashman

I guess I just wonder why. The Hyper doesnt seem like a bike that would really benefit from reversing the shift pattern.

Why wouldn't it? It's a sport bike, just like any other sport bike. If you prefer GP shift on your other bikes, it makes sense to have it on the Hyper.

If anything, it's even more beneficial on the Hyper. Since the pegs are so low compared to other sport bikes, it's even harder to get your foot under the lever for upshifts coming out of left-hand turns...