600 mile oil change - Ducati.ms

kneedragger727 · Jul 10th, 2008, 4:40 pm

Just wanted to see if someone could possibly post the page from the service manual on changing the oil. I'm sure it's a very simple procedure, but having changed the oil on so many bikes I know that some bikes a very specific procedure. Like my ktm smr 450 with the filters for example.
I will buy a service manual. I didn't realize how quickly I put on those miles!!!
Thanks.

georound · Jul 10th, 2008, 5:12 pm

Try this (may need to use newer version of IE)
Oil change

kneedragger727 · Jul 10th, 2008, 8:21 pm

Thanks for the info. I could not get the torque specs. though.
The page would not load up for me.
does anyone know what the torque amounts are for the drain plug and
the mesh filter?
Thanks again.

georound · Jul 10th, 2008, 8:38 pm

Oil filter nipple 42 Nm
Oil cartridge filter 11 Nm
Mesh filter duct plug 20Nm

kneedragger727 · Jul 11th, 2008, 7:09 am

Thanks very much Georound. I really appreciate your time.

Road Scholar · Jul 11th, 2008, 11:37 am

This is not an oil thread.

The work shop CD says SG or SH or higher for API rating. Given that the HYM has a dry clutch and an external starter drive, like Boxer BMWs, however, we still have the engine and transmission sharing the oil; is there any reason not to use SJ, SL or SM rated oils? They are "better", cheaper and much easier to find.

Your thoughts?

RS

93Octane · Jul 12th, 2008, 7:56 am

start the bike to heat the oil for 5 min then turn off

remove the oil plug at the bottom of the engine to drain the oil. keep the plug and keep the seal.

now remove the filter and then replace with a new filter but making sure to lubricate the new filter's edge with new oil.

once all oil has drained from the bike, put the plug with seal back in place.

fill engine with oil.

georound · Jul 12th, 2008, 9:40 am

I think you got it. Not really different from other oil changes. Some would say replace the crush washer on the drain bolt, but I never do, and I've never noticed a problem.
I would fill the oil filter full of oil to reduce the time the engine has low oil flow.
For the first oil change, I'd probably check the mesh screen for metal chunks and then check it every second or third change. The first time, you might see some small chunks, but by the third time it should remain pretty clean unless somethings taking a beating.

wjn · Jul 12th, 2008, 12:49 pm

Anyone considered to change the oil earlier than at 600 miles (or 1000 km)?

I will do my first change at about 100 miles.

Motard-Menace · Jul 12th, 2008, 7:42 pm

I just did my oil today for the 2nd time. I am at about 2900 miles now. The catch screen had one small chunk in it and that was it. When I did my first change at around 500-600 miles there was nothing in the screen. Tolerances in mine must be nuts on or something. I don't get to worked up about torque settings for bolts and nuts either, just snug them up. Never had an issue on any bike or car doing it that way in 20 years of doing my own oil in vehicles.

I was looking around for oil this time and decided to try the Bell Ray Semi-Synthetic. (Shit wasn't cheap) Anyway I'll see how it goes and monitor the temp closely for a bit but a quick blast today to autozone and it ran good. Temp was about 98 degrees outside. On a side note I was bitchin to myself about the oil and filter for the bike well I had to by a Fuel Pressure Regulator for the 4Runner today and that was $83 bucks for a little tiny part. I asked the guy what the cost per ounce was.........