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Old Jun 7th, 2008, 4:42 am   #1 (permalink)
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Post Stumble just off idle

Ok guys i have had a bit of time in the shed with the hyper and have done the top airbox hole but kept the std filter, emptied out the cat, flap open and opened up the std exhaust a little.

Now when the bike is idling and i snap to full throttle it stumbles for about a second then revs normally. Im not 100% if it will happen at full riding temp but it had been running for about 5 mins in the shed, so should of been warm.

So how do i go about fixing it?

Is it an ecu issue?
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Old Jun 7th, 2008, 4:51 am   #2 (permalink)
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Get her out of the shed.

Sorry, couldn't resist. It's late/early. I'm no expert so I will sit back and learn from the masters on this forum.
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Termi 2-2 slip on, DP race header, DP race seat, DP steering damper, DP airbox lid, DP race cams, DP race ECU (cam version), DP CF clutch cover, BMC Filters, Pistal hi-comp pistons, ported heads by BCM, Piazzo short levers, Shift-Tech CF tank cover, S-T CF hugger (4 pieces), S-T CF sprocket cover, S-T CF ignition cover, S-T CF Windscreen, S-T CF gauge cover, Rizoma reservoirs, EVS pressure plate, EVS clutch slave cylinder. HP: never enough Torque: see HP
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Old Jun 7th, 2008, 4:55 am   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by tunefx View Post
Get her out of the shed.

Sorry, couldn't resist. It's late/early. I'm no expert so I will sit back and learn from the masters on this forum.
Thanks for the advice But we are going out for a good ride tomorrow
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Old Jun 7th, 2008, 6:11 am   #4 (permalink)
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fuel

Hi mate, you are probably best off taking it to someone with some diagnostic gear. The problem you have is you have let the engine breathe and exhaust better which is good... but... the factory computer is not tuned to allow the mods you have done. The factory computer is lightly tunable with the factory equipment. You will more than likely have to put a few points of fuelling into that area. ALSO, get the throttle body balance set spot on. We see a lot of bike come in that have had service work done but not the balance... IT makes a huge difference. make sure tho, that they adjust it on the linkage NOT the air screws. hope that helps you out.
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Old Jun 7th, 2008, 6:16 am   #5 (permalink)
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'ava good weend! Transport me to OZ!
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'08 HM 1100 S
Termi 2-2 slip on, DP race header, DP race seat, DP steering damper, DP airbox lid, DP race cams, DP race ECU (cam version), DP CF clutch cover, BMC Filters, Pistal hi-comp pistons, ported heads by BCM, Piazzo short levers, Shift-Tech CF tank cover, S-T CF hugger (4 pieces), S-T CF sprocket cover, S-T CF ignition cover, S-T CF Windscreen, S-T CF gauge cover, Rizoma reservoirs, EVS pressure plate, EVS clutch slave cylinder. HP: never enough Torque: see HP
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Old Jun 7th, 2008, 9:58 am   #6 (permalink)
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... the factory computer is not tuned to allow the mods you have done.
I also believe this is the issue.
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Old Jun 7th, 2008, 11:15 am   #7 (permalink)
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I have done exactly what you have done (exhaust gutted and airbox lid) and oh what a difference the cam ECU made. You are simply too lean. I am guessing that you get a nice bit of rumble and popping when you are decelerating with the throttle closed. You can get a Rapid Bike 3 module with a oxygen sensor emulator, get a Power Commander III USB or buy the cam kit for the ecu. I doubt you could ever get enough fueling with a tuned stock ecu.
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Old Jun 7th, 2008, 4:03 pm   #8 (permalink)
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I agree with a couple of the posts above. It is most likely because your electronics now are not in tune with what you have done so to fix the issue it will need to be put on the Dyno to see if it is tunable with the stock ECU (which it most likely isn't) or you can get a performance ECU that can be tuned to work properly. This will still take someone who knows how to tune it and has the capable tools to do the job. You might also want to look into getting a PC for it and see if that will work with the proper tuning. Goodluck
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